docc

Hmmm, I see. The coil was unplugged, but the spark plug wire was not attached to the plug. I'll try to get a better connection and see what reading I get on the secondary. I guess anyone looking at theirs needs to also check the mounting pucks as they are known to let loose.

I got 1.0 ohm also, but checked the resistance through the leads and found 0.5. With the primary and secondary coils set up for induction, it seems like there would be no contact between them.

Resistance across the power input to the coils (primary) is 0.5 ohm both sides. There is no continuity between the primary and secondary coils ( I think 'good'). I think I'll bleed the front brakes and change the fork oil while I wait for clutch and throttle parts.

Yeah, that's the part that has me worried. It's a shouldered nylon ring that anchors the dust seal. I thought about rigging up a rigid tube, or yes a socket, to try and press it in. The mallet idea sounds like a winner. I didn't know if I should try and seat the rubber dust seal at the same time or put it in after (?) Also, did you use an assembly lube or just wet the piston with fluid?

It is stamped: DC15 12 I'm worried since I tore the rubber boot and munted the nylon retaining collar and O-ring. It doesn't look like those are in the rebuild kits I've seen in the pictures.

Greg, Looks like the barrel is 12mm. I'll give you a call in the morning since I need some other stuff as well. Thanks again! docc

g, I PM'd my #. I checked plug wire resistance. The wires were OK, but the 90 degree resistor cap was 5,000 ohms left and 19,000 ohms right. I swapped for an extra that has just under 5,000 ohms. This bike's gonna run so good when you guys are done with it!

I did replace the terminal end, cleaned it all up well with electronics cleaner and applied copper paste liberally to the connection before applying silicone grease to the boot at both the coil and the wire. I'll check that resistance and compare to the good wire on the left. How do you check the "secondary side?" (I see myself taking things further apart on the Sport . . .talk about mission creep!)

OH, hey, let me say, "Greg is top notch!" I don't know where I'd be without my "local Moto Guzzi dealer in Seattle, Washington." (He's 2000 miles away!) Lately, I've been calling Greg every couple days as I find new issues, or make blunders, while I go all through the Sport for its 100,000 kM service. Since I tore up the boot, O-ring and nylon collar on the M/C, I'll likely be calling again as I don't think those are usually included in the rebuild kit. (I should have never let the lovely Sport see me riding those Triumphs at Barber's. I think she was alright until I came back with that lusty grin on the Blazing Orange Speed Triple. )

After riding to Barber's for the Vintage Event, the Sport continued to pop just off idle and occasionally stall especially when very hot. I've pulled the tank to service everything I can find including replacing the air manifold rubber. While waiting for parts, I've begun cleaning and servicing all the connectors. When I pulled the right coil wire, I found enough green crud to fill the entire connection. It was so set, I had to grind it out with a Dremel. The wire end detached and looks to have corroded in two. I'm expecting good things when this all goes back together! (The left side looked perfect!)

I got the piston out with compressed air. The spring came out in four parts! Looks like it had been that way for a time. I suppose the bleeding didn't break it, but just brought the trouble to light. Now the trouble: is it rebuildable and where to get the kit. Otherwise, should I send it off for the service?

I've had to adjust the lever position all the way out just to get some hydraulic action before the lever hits the bar. Usually I keep it adjusted closest as I have rather short fingers. To make matters worse, I have the grips off right now waiting for replacements, so the feel is completely odd. To bleed, I had my son squeeze and hold while I opened and closed the bleeder. We ran about 2 1/2 reservoirs through and never ran it dry. I have the master cylinder off now looking perhaps to inspect and clean it. The operating rod is 23mm and doesn't protrude from the rubber cuff. I can't see how to get the thing apart to clean or rebuild. Also, I see the aluminum bracket for the reservoir is cracking. This 100,000 kM service is growing every day!

Having the Sport down for 100,000 kilometer service, I bled the clutch like a good boy. Now there is 7mm play at the lever before the master cylinder engages. What gives?

My Dutch is a bit weak, but: Les sabot mammaria? Or is that just a mix of French and Spanish? What do you call wearing your tits on your shoes??

Ya'll make me dizzy with your math. Watching the Veglia, and compensating for its fluctuation, the Garmin shows almost-exactly 5 mph less even up into the higher ranges (90 mph indicated is 85 by the satellites). It could be 4%, but I try not to look down much at those speeds. Not that I've ever actually gone that fast; you know: yesterday or otherwise . . .

I've got the Roadsmarts now, yeah. So far, so good, but smoked up the rear overbraking in a Homer (you mean that guy's gonna turn in front of me? Well, yeah. Duh!) With over 60,000 miles on the Sport now (I dunno how many tires), I'm the guy who gets 4500 out of a rear and MAYBE 6000 on the front (unless it's a "Corse") by basic dog-fight riding: rip it up through the gears and back down: howling all the way. I keep telling myself I'll stop. And this Scotch, too. My fuel economy ain't too hot neither. I'll get back to you on the Roadsmarts. At least they haven't performed like the Michelin Pilot Road-Rash did for me (8^). Ride well, go to Barber's for the Vintage Days, docc

I'm just back from 1035 miles into the Virginia/West Virginia mountains. The Guzzi has never been so unhappy with fuel. Mostly only 87 octane was available, but I wonder if some 'corners' are being cut to give us the gas . . .

The rotors are "semi-floating." Which means they semi "do not" float. Lubricate the buttons with a penetrating oil like Break-Free CLP and tap the rotor around a bit with a mallet. Wipe off any excess oil and see if the shuddering doesn't improve. Consider , also, cleaning the pads with a good brake cleaner and bleed the system well.

Buell (HD) part #s: Outer (smoked )lens: Y0039.K Inner (amber) lens: Y0040.K Also, note that the full assembly is identical to the later (but not current) Triumph Tiger ("electric", or "Girlie"). Same stalk as the V11, but with the amber lens.

I'm guessing your tach lies and the the whole set-up will be happier at a higher rpm. Maybe even 500 rpm higher . . .

You've looked at your Regulator Fuse ?? Also, simply check your battery voltage with a good digital meter. Post what you find, yes?

And, perhaps, the idle speed has just gotten a bit low. Some tachs read high by as much as 500 rpm. If so, your tach could show 1000 while the girls struggles to stay lit at 500 rpm.

Have you looked at your regulator fuse? Melting Fuse Thread

Funny: about the melting plastic and the circuit breaker. I noticed the plastic melting on my fuse (again) and got a circuit breaker thinking it would be more 'durable.' Then, I couldn't get the fuse out: one side had welded in and the other, well the photo shows it cooked off. Again, I can't tell you how much better my bike is running after splicing in the MAXI fuse. And, I've been at this a while. Not my first rodeo and all . . .

What he said^