docc

Friday morning looks like side-stands up at 0900 at the Cracker Barrel I65, exit 46. We'll go some 220 miles over the Cumberland Plateau to the hotel at Vonore , near Knoxville. Let me know if you are coming in Thursday night so some South'n hospitality can be arranged. Every day my Sport gets hungrier for the road. Today I thought she would siphon off all the air in middle Tennessee just to swallow up the road ahead . . .

You guys remind me of my kids. I suspect you've been in the liquor cabinet while Jaap was away . . .

Traxxion Dynamics supplied some very nice aluminum spacers with my springs all cut nicely and beveled internally. The stuff must be available out there.

Hear, hear! Tho' Vonore would be a great place for a wedding and reception. We can move the bikes back a little so there's room in the parking lot. I'm sure she'll understand . . .

Thanks for the reminder. I've actually used both methods over the years with more years having the right screw defeated. At this point I've been using the left screw as 'primary', but turning the right screw in just to make a stop. It's more than likely probably redundant. I always check the mercury sticks at both idle and rpm.

Theorizing that I had already set the TPS for a given rpm, I simply turned the throttle screws in to bump the idle up. Next tune-up interval I'll go through the whole process again. Perhaps by next week I'll have some fuel economy data while I chase the heat source in my wiring harness . . .

Well, this changed the running more than I expected. The idle dropped about 200-300 rpm. There is more 'burble' on engine braking (leaner?). And the throttle response 'seems' crisper and more linear. I've gassed up to see if the fuel economy is affected. Thanks again to everyone for sharing their tuning secrets!

Some GPS coordinates could make this dangerously interesting. Of course you could deny all knowledge of the intrusion . . .

It looks like the finning would help protect the connector and wiring from head temperature heat while the tip of the pick-up is still in contact down deep.

I've done the brass sensor holder. Packed the space with copper jizz. I'm anxious to see if it affects performance or fuel economy. The sensor came out easily ("finger tight"), but the plastic holder was a bit#&. It took a combination of four wrenches to back the thing out. It never broke. I can't see how taping the fins could make a difference with the tip of the sensor immersed in copper against the bottom of the holder.

Judging by the Hagan-Factor, I would say the Norge is not spineless! And then is there is the Barber's Vintage event in October. Without you you we would freeze and die. But . . . it's your conscience . . .

Bleed the clutch fluid?

Bleed the clutch fluid?

I've had my 'safety bolts' out almost since day one (55,000 miles). It is helpful when you torque the pinch bolts to do them up in stages. If you tighten on and then the other, the first will likely need a little snugging up.

TC, Use the *pinned thread* for throttle body synch. One or two of us do it a little differently, but it is an outstanding baseline procedure. I reset my Sport every 4000-6000 miles. Ride well, docc

Star-tistics is funny! 21% Moto Guzzi?!! Like the fifteen Harly-ettes I saw today must not have a 'pooter. Or maybe I should ride more and serf less . .

Four weeks out. Some may have found other accommodations nearby. Nonetheless, the Friday and Saturday evenings on the tarmac perusing these V11s is priceless. I'm thinking we should take temp readings on the rear drive and the main regulator fuse. And perhaps earlobes and neighboring dwellers. It would probably be bad form to check temps on the bomb squad that showed up last year . . .

Valve specs are like women . . . loose is good . . . Paradoxical though: loose women are "hot" and loose valves are "not."

Before I had had my Sport long, the dealer sent me a 'bigger' Siemens for the starter slot. Then the word was out to upgrade to the Bosch through Dan Pruneske. This was real good stuff and good on Dan. Later, the GEI became the 'thing' and I had to have them. I was struck and surprised when two of the failed and the Bosch saved me. (Sure, perhaps my connections and regulator are to blame). While I wired my headlamps hot from the battery to two separate 30 amp relays (thinking this was infallible), I was shocked when one of the relays failed leaving my lo-beam cold. I thought it was the PIAA bulb , but lit it again with the OMRON relay. Now I'm running OMRON on all but but horn circuits (which are Bosch). I plan to swap those to OMRON when the tank is off next. I really do trust the work RYLAND has done to determine what really is best. The tale of many relays . . .

I wouldn't let anybody else say that about you. I was thinking this would be a good diagnostic to watch as an indication that the tensioner is due for replacement. Otherwise I could fall into replacing it every time someone posts a new improved version. Like I've done with my collection of relays.

Ratch, I cannot believe you have not had the timing light hooked back up for confirmation! I would think you would get great satisfaction seeing those marks hold tight.

And this is easy to fix: loosen the clamp, push the boot on, tighten the clamp. The tune-up will keep it from happening again. Look down at the throttle body to see if one has pulled back off the head.

Pete, do you think copper anti-seize would work just as well? I guess I should have one of those nifty brass fittings on hand when I try this . . .

After 10-15 miles I found the fuse at 150 degrees F while most of the the other fuses and relays were 93-103. It occurred to me the fuse holder had its rubber cap on and I'll check the temp with it off to see how much that may dissipate the heat. 13.4v seems to be a good charging rate for a battery at 99%.

I would think if there were voltage spikes all the bulbs would be victimized first. No, the GEI are suspect in their own right. I have that IR temp reader that I intend to use on rear drives on the South'n Spine Raid. Looks like it's time to spray regulator fuses also. I'll open the connectors for the regulator and exchange dielectric grease for copper antiseize and hope for good electro-karma . . .