docc

I'm guessing your tach lies and the the whole set-up will be happier at a higher rpm. Maybe even 500 rpm higher . . .

You've looked at your Regulator Fuse ?? Also, simply check your battery voltage with a good digital meter. Post what you find, yes?

And, perhaps, the idle speed has just gotten a bit low. Some tachs read high by as much as 500 rpm. If so, your tach could show 1000 while the girls struggles to stay lit at 500 rpm.

Have you looked at your regulator fuse? Melting Fuse Thread

Funny: about the melting plastic and the circuit breaker. I noticed the plastic melting on my fuse (again) and got a circuit breaker thinking it would be more 'durable.' Then, I couldn't get the fuse out: one side had welded in and the other, well the photo shows it cooked off. Again, I can't tell you how much better my bike is running after splicing in the MAXI fuse. And, I've been at this a while. Not my first rodeo and all . . .

What he said^

Just to bring this thread full circle, look at this Nasty Hiccup Thread with pictures and a real solution.

It makes me wonder if the CO has been out of trim for the past 59,000 miles, or if the data in the ECU could be unstable enough that my low and unstable voltages could have caused it to lose its setting. Dave has said before that some of my Sport's issues sounded like there was a connection problem elsewhere in the harness. Looks like the case with the broken blade on the regulator fuse - just enough contact to keep the battery light off, but it had to be throwing some terrific voltage spikes. Hence, the two recent fried relays, short headlamp bulb life, weak charging, and the unstable running conditions. The little ATO/ATC blade fuses just don't seem up to the task. With the infrared temperature results showing a 40-70 Fahrenheit degree improvement, I believe the MAXI fuse is the solution. AFter chasing this for the past year or so, I can't say enough: Check your 30 amp regulator fuse for signs of heat and poor contact!

Andy found the CO leaned out considerably and zeroed it out with the VDSTS, confirmed with exhaust gas analyzer. The Sport runs so much better now, it's really amazing! At this point, I don't know how many threads to tie together: Popping/ sputtering/ melted regulator fuses/ throttle bodies/ lean condition/ unstable idle . . . Over the past several years I have chased a problem with the main ( 30 amp regulator ) fuse heating up (melting, without 'blowing' and otherwise getting *HOT*). I moved it out of the fuse block where the contacts are minimal and soldered in an in-line fuse holder for a 30 amp ATO/ATC fuse. Twice, now, this fuse has gotten so hot as to burn off its contacts (without blowing the fuse). Routinely, this fuse has run temperatures of 130-175 degrees Fahrenheit. Having had the popping/sputtering, marginal charging and lean condition - I found it astounding how the Sport ran after changing the regulator fuse to a full size "MAXI" fuse. (Fahrenheit temperature: 95-105) I've 59,000 miles on this bike and have a good sense of its 'changes.' I'll keep you posted how this goes . . . ___________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ EDIT/ 30 October 2016 http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19672&p=214384 http://www.v11lemans.com/gallery/gallery_328_223_1016816.jpeg EDIT/15 Nov 2016: Alternative Circuit Breaker: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19672&p=214894 http://www.v11lemans.com/gallery/gallery_328_223_1207979.jpeg

Throttle body shaft bushings/seals and a valve job? No . . . that's not til 58,000 miles . . .

The TPS sits in a drink cup. Blow it out with compressed air after a wash or wet ride. Better, seal it with some silicone along the open margin.

Hah! Funny, I was just in a Harley dealer yesterday to replace a signal lens ($4 US from Buell [made in Italy]) I oggled over the Ulysses. And the stripped 1200 Sportster "5". Whats'at?: "5?" Like 'five' what? It felt good bonking my quick shifting, high revving V-twin leaving there. No one talked to me , but the 'parts clerk' (after a *while*), who called me 'sir' {ya must'a got me confused wit som'n else**) and enjoyed the cleavage of the receptionist babes and the coffeeeeee in the "customer's lounge." I'm not sure (having spent $10 bucks on 'parts'), that I even qualify as a 'customer'.

Some longer screws under the fender panel anchor the small bands. I can take some pictures if you need them . . .

Andy reset my CO today with the VDSTS. It has never been set since the factory. We moved it from -27 (0.15 on the gas analyzer) to 0 (0.38). The idle came up into the normal range (1100 instead of 900) and the idle is much more stable now, even idling in the Nashville traffic in the heat. The popping on the over run in the lean 4000-4500 range is improved. It does, however, continue to burp and pop at idle, just off idle and in the lean rang of the map. Better, but this persists. I'm sure Andy is on to it with this throttle body business. I'm looking forward to the fix becoming available at Corse Motorsports. Thanks, again, Andy!

A sample of . . . relay juice? I've resorted to applying copious quantities of Chianti as *she* seems a bit pissed off about the single malts . . .

Hmm, so true. In that thread on TPS variation, Dan M suggests it may be shaft wear on the high milers. How many miles (kM) on your Sport i, Raz?

I just compared the play to another V11 with 55,000 miles and it was much worse than mine (and suffering from the same*pop*-stumble). I still intend to tweak the CO but suspect that the shaft play is going to be a trouble-maker for all the higher mileage v11s.

All of the components are grounded back through the harness to the stack of terminals on the battery. The ECU case has an external ground under the seat. The primary ground is the negative battery cable to the right side of the gearbox where it mounts to the engine. Since most of the grounding is through the harness, all of the connectors become critical. While you have the tank off, clean and apply copper or silver antiseize paste to connectors being careful not to bridge between contacts. Some riders have found it beneficial to add a frame to engine ground strap and separate grounds from headlamps or horns.

There is some play. Especially up and down on the right. Yours?

Well, that's a sweet looking "E-vert." I can''t wait to see what you do with the LeMans . . .

Does this mean we should watch for an 8-valve 1200 in your LeMans in the future?

So this may be a case of the shaft 'ovaling' out the housing? All is well with the throttle open (which is where I like it after all! ), but slow speed turns and idling in traffic are annoying, even alarming if the thing pops in a turn pulling away from a stop. I'm going to try to get to Corse Motorsports in Nashville the next couple of days and tickle the ECU with the Axone. (57,500 miles on the Sport now!)

Interesting instrument(s). Is that an altimeter?

I have retightened the intakes (maybe overtightened?), wrapped them with electrical tape and done the spray test on them. I've thought to just replace them as a matter of course. The positive spray test on the bottom of the TB shaft seems definitive. Does anyone else's raise rpm when the lower shaft is sprayed?

The Garmin 550 Zumo is my first GPS. It certainly has its faults as a navigation tool, but has given me the opportunity to cover some roads I would otherwise not have gone. Other riders tell me its advantages are: the US version has all of NA already loaded, fast recalculation time, it 'keeps up' well at brisk road speeds ( you don't often ride by a turn before the Zumo catches it), the screen brightness and touch features are an improvement over many previous models. Hey and they're getting cheaper (aren't they?)