docc

Most likely explanation is the loose intake boot. You can find it by inspection or spraying a solvent, like carb cleaner, around the joints and surfaces monitoring for a change in idle speed.

A beautiful thing!

The Scura has Ohlins suspension and a more aggressive (single plate) clutch/flywheel that some say might be problematic. Scura is more exclusive. Thread here on Breakdown of Model Year Changes And a current, ongoing thread: Thinking about a 2002 LeMans Unless your heart just draws you to the style of one over the other, I would look closely at maintenance records and "improvements" as indicators. You'll appreciate an exhaust upgrade to tap into that Guzzi character. May be a factor if one has a system and the other not.

What's this Docc? I missed this,maybe cause I havent had any heat related issues. There was a trend some years back to swap the plastic engine temperature sensor holder to another Guzzi part that was all brass. The method was to also add a paste to bring the brass sheath of the sensor into contact with the holder; the thinking being that the engine temperature would be more accurately read. Now, much of the year it is quite hot where I ride in the southeastern USA and the Sport was especially angry about dragging along in traffic or parking lots in this heat (over 90-100F / 32-38C). After using the high mass holder for a couple years (something like 15,000 miles), I returned to the plastic holder with no contact paste and saw immediate improvement. A couple forum members had worked up a modification removing the integrated brass sheath from the sensor and fabricating a Delrin holder. Worked well for me - summary thread here: Engine Temperature Sensor

+1 on the mechanical conversion (leave it, then, always open unless removing the tank); +1 also on the 'prone to break' theory. They have always been a fragile link and don't require negligence to break. *one less fuse - one less worry*

I don't understand the problem. Those voltages are to be expected. Those voltages are certainly typical. And may sustain the battery for a reasonable period of time. Yet, AGM manufacturers (ie: Hawker Odyssey) specify 14.2 volts for charging, unlimited amperage. Static voltage on an AGM is 12.84 vDC. Anything less is discharging.

In these temps and what we have for "fuel," I find 4000 miles not too soon for a proper tune (valves, plugs, TPS, throttle balance, idle setting). Again, don't be afraid to add a hundred rpm to your idle. 1250 is not too high and a full turn out on the air screws will tolerate the heat better. Do all this first and be certain your TPS is not nicked at the idle spot. Otherwise, there is a (controversial) temp sensor modification . . .

Invisible picture? Maybe post a wanted in the classifieds for someone who has swapped out for bar end mirrors.

Woops - it's in Frequently Asked Questions: TPS Setup and Throttle Balance Tuning /how to set your TPS and balance your throttle bodies

I did just lap solder into the wiring at the rear of the harness. As the thread shows, I used infra-red measurement to assess heat. It is also good to check your voltages: static, idle, and charging. The AGM batteries do like charging at more than 14 volts.

!6-18 (37.6-42.3 US mpg) looks pretty good to me. I think those getting more are very easy on the throttle transitions and minimal shifting. "Temp sensor mod?" How so? http://www.v11lemans...pic=14832&st=15 This is the thread that discusses sense AND nonsense about the temp sensor. I have made a contribution to the thread aswell. Maybey it`s interesting to read it?If so, please feel free to read it and if you have any questions about my mod, feel free to PM me. Guzzigreetings, Velf2003 Oh yes, threads I remember too well, but are VERY hard to search and get the technical content. An attempt was made to reset the technical component here: Engine Temperature Sensor I am very happy with this modification. Tested extensively, here of late, in the triple digit heat (pushing 40 Celcius).

The tanks did change after 2002. What year your Sport, Paul?

Maybe better if another "collector" gets it. They pay top dollar, don't worry about seals and such, and they'll have it there for us to look at when our sorry old V11s are all clapped out and wanting - 83,000 miles now on the Sport and not just entirely clapped out yet! ( I do love the look of the Tenni - belissimo!)

Glad you're enjoying your new ride! There are a myriad of contributors to the "sneeze/hiccup" so common at low rpm. Start with the pinned tune-up in "HowTo" and we'll go from there. And if you wake up one day and can't find your ass, you must have smiled it completely off!

Nice to hear the search function is usable! Nasty Hiccup thread I went to the MAXI fuse after I continued to have problems with the standard fuse size even in external holders. Check also the condition of the yellow stator wires inside the alternator cover and be sure your regulator has a ground strap to the case.

!6-18 (37.6-42.3 US mpg) looks pretty good to me. I think those getting more are very easy on the throttle transitions and minimal shifting. "Temp sensor mod?" How so?

Mystery solved (with a little help from google!) Marketing in North America has become so pervasive that no place called "Burnt Island" would be left. I feel certain it would have been renamed with some alluring euphemism like "Aromatic Island" or "Island of a Thousand Hazes." Maybe "Island of Smoke and Mirrors." We can spin a thing, here stateside.

Damn nice, that! Chjit, look at those gorgeous ker-frickin' pipes! (told you I curse for good measure . . . ) Just for some measure of Technical contribution: If your starter does not make a peep when you thumb the switch, yes, it is usually the nefarious bullet connectors. But the micro switch and its connections at the lever can also be problematic. Give them a good cleaning with some connector cleaner (protect the paint) and be sure you can hear a little *click* when the lever is first put in motion.

Oh, my, no - you were not rude in any way. We are from so many places around the world that I think we might expect others to recognize our locale by an abbreviation or such. So, I amended my location to be more helpful. I really do think we should all show some kind of location in our profile. It really does help when we discuss technical solutions. And while I kinda know where "KY" is (neighboring state), I'm still waiting for more clues on "KY3" . . . I'm mystified . . .stupefied . . .

At this suggestion, I updated my profile to show country. The profile suggests that your bike and your location are "required" fields. It won't edit you out if they are blank, but it sure helps other members help you find products and assistance. Your location can be general: UK, US, EU - whatever, but it's helpful to see when considering language variations and such. Good suggestion to specify country for those of us in "The States."

Roy, Have you pulled the coil wires from the coils to inspect? I had one all green and nasty with the contact corroded in two. It kind of rides in the weather there.

I usually curse anyway, just for good measure.

Er, I'm not Steve, but the connectors are on the left side of the frame near the front. There are no other connectors on the bike like them. Not only do they benefit from cleaning and crimping (or tightening), but I think it helps to weather proof as well (heat shrink).

Check the yellow wires at the bottom of the stator (alternator) under the front cover. The do commonly break and may have shorted. They are hard to see all the way in, so you must lie down on your side and trace them in with a good light. With the regulator that hot, it may be a good bet. Otherwise, Roy will be along presently to get you sorted out.

Hmmm, good point. The rear pads are already undesized and wear out quickly enough.