docc

Copied/ pasted and posted in FAQ. Fuel Regulator alternative

Posted 8-5-2012, 12:22 AM on Technical Topics by member "twinsrule" If you're in the market for a Fuel Pressure Regulator for your '02 Guzzi and you don't want to pay the exorbitant "dealer" price of 270.00+ USD, then NAPA auto parts is your savior. The NAPA P/N is MC26011 and costs around 57.00 USD + shipping if you order it online. It is a Weber part, it's a 3bar, and it fit my '02 Tenni. The part is also a replacement for 95-01 Harley's equipped with EFI. Mine ceased regulating and fuel was blowing by the injector o-rings and I agave up after a couple attempts of cleaning it. Gootsie is happy again and getting ridden after 3 months of down time. My apologies if this old news here. Link to part here --Pete

They are actually not hex but Torx and it is a good move to replace them with hex fasteners making them so much easier to fettle with a simple 90 degree angled hex tool. The yellow paint is there to help you find the things that need messing with.

" Sir, I am unaware of any such activity or operation... nor would I be disposed to discuss such an operation if it did in fact exist, sir." Capt Willard aka Bullwinkle the Moose aka DBG docc never said that . . . I didn't say that . . . cheeeze!

Too cool. I think they like each other (you can just tell . . .)!

Most likely culprit would be the "bullet" connectors from the clutch switch located under the left side of the tank. Try rotating the bars all the way to lock one way (try to start) then the other (try to start). Otherwise, put an ear to the clutch lever and listen for a tiny *click* as the lever is pulled (the switch sometimes just gets all gummed up). headlights, horn, and brake light work?

Posted twice just to gain ground on your post count.

I have always loved the ST2 . . . How could it be any less reliable than a V11?

Clip-ons or handlebars? Headlight mounted to the frame or to the forks? (Trying to discern if it may be a late '02/ early '03 versus the final generation.)

Sounds like a good price and the '03 -'04 are very nice examples. What color are the forks?

There are several threads on the leaky phase sensor which mimics a leaky timing chest. Look at this Oil Leak thread for a good time. There is an O-ring on the sensor. (Gotta watch those Goolge Analytics since 326 out of 400 pageviews could be Google Analytics . . .)

Yeah, the wife said it's her or the Guzzi . . Gosh I'm gonna miss the old gal.

Ah! We could say, then, "spring length." The one pictured is 145 mm. I have edited my previous posts where I mis-measured. So, for clarity (if we could hope for such a thing ), I'll say it this way: The range of adjustment is about 30mm. The shock pictured is "preloaded" 18mm or 60% of the adjustment range. (Even if the adjusters are backed all the way off, I suspect the spring still has some "preload." I could not find any specification for this spring's free length.) The angle of the photo does not show the threads below the adjustor ring, but there is another 12mm to maximum. I am surprised with your weight and your spring length that you do not have more sag. Possible the PO already changed the spring? (The stock coil wire is about 0.445" with 6 full coils)

Not sure what you mean by "between the adjuster rings" since the one against the spring is the adjuster ring and the other is a lock ring. Yet, 26 mm is a good sag measure; on the stiff, or tight, side - could be out to 30-33 on the 'comfort' side. The picture of my SACHS is 145mm from the top coil to the bottom coil, with 12mm remaining in the adjustment.

Suspension set-up can take surprising new turns . . .

I must be carrying too many rocks in my pockets . . .

I love the tank badging and the luxurious brown seat and grips!

I could not find any stampings on the rear shock of my 2000 V11 Sport. It has a gold body, white spring, and blue anodized fittings. There is a sticker on the bottom of the reservoir:

The Guzzi is driven by the infamous "bevel drives" (failure prone of themselves), but the internals should be the same and, once apart, you could likely swap parts.

The OEM unit is most likely Sachs-Boge. The last of the White Power units went on the earlier Sport 1100 series (no V11 were known to get the WP in spite of period literature and certain magazine reports of the day (that probably relied on the literature).

Just for emphasis: the rear pistons graze along just above the nasty tarmac getting wet, nasty and ugly. Cleaning those pistons (with brake cleaner), working them in and out, and bleeding that fluid (yearly) is good stuff, along with being certain the foot pedal doesn't drag the brake (there should be a little "play"). The same applies to the fronts: the pistons will tend to move differently. Routinely, work the pistons in and out applying brake cleaner watching them to move together more uniformly. The change in brake action is really amazing!

I'm thinking you'll be very pleased after this is done and fresh spark plugs. She'll be like a date with a dozen roses!

The two nipples are the overflow (fuel filling) and the vapor vent. Looking down at the tank with the cap open, you can see which is which. (Left:overflow/ right: vent) Yes, you can join them. A line does return from the fuel injectors to the regulator on the right side (like 3/8" OD), but there is a deceiving "nib" appearing as a connection on the bottom of the regulator facing forward. It is open to atmosphere and has no hose connecting to it.

Carb cleaner eats rubber parts right quick So, what would you use? (I actually use electronics cleaner, since brake parts cleaner is probably even worse than carb cleaner.) WD40?

Good to hear it's something simple. Check the whole tune-up/valve adjustment and throttle body balance to prevent a recurrence.