docc

So I see the line is really 7/16" . I wrapped it in aluminized duct tape ( not the sticky grey stuff) for now . It makes a much straighter shot to the pump at 9" instead of the 12" line that angled down and along the base of the cylinder.

Thank you, Gentlemen!

I've just replaced my 'electric cock' with the manual one TX sent me. I don't know why I couldn't line it up before , it just dropped right in this time. It looks like I can do with about 3 inches less fuel line to the pump. This will get the route well away from the cylinder fins. How important is it to have the steel braid on the line? Or can I just use some 1/2 " ID fuel line to the pump?

I know the manual says " put the swingarm pins back where you found them." But my swingarm has been replaced. Now I wonder how deep to set the pins. For the last 4000 miles I've just set them the same both sides but surely there's more to it than that??

Dear Mr. Angry , Of course the stock pipes are throw aways just sound enough to get the bike home where you can swap out to something that says "FOR OFF ROAD USE ONLY." You should consider yourself lucky to have gotten 30k out of them. Seriously, I've also just turned 30k on my Sport and have followed your advice on checking over some things and tidying up a bit. Thanks for the posts and cheer up.

Cliffy, the FI on the V11 is infinately adjustable. Do a search for TPS (throttle position sensor) and Throttle Body balance. I recall someonme fitted some reverse megaphones. Hopefully they'll speak up.

When I first put the plate on the holes would not line up. I flipped it around and it bolted up. It's just slightly asymmetrical. The driveline of the V11 is still moved right a bit. (edit /10 Mar 2017: Apparently, the V11 driveline is not offset like earlier spine frames. Yet, this plate "piastra colleg" still bolted up on my 2000 Sport.)

Yeah, getting the thing bolted up was tedious. Not so much putting it in place but getting tools onto the fasteners took a while. I couldn't find any tool combination to work around the throttle body brace. This plate was a part number for the Sport 1100. KB, the plate itself did not return on the V11 Sports of 1999-2001 even though the frame tang remained. With the revised frames of 2002 the tang disappeared and the new front and rearlower subframes debut with the cross bracing. I still want one of those but Guzzi wants over $300 and I have to cut off the forward struts as my case has no bosses to bolt it up. The Scuras have the 'new' frame with cross braced subframe, yes?

Light or no light , I wish there was a simple a way to get that fuel over where we can use it.

This is grand! Sign me up. I drained the tank this evening by switching on the electrical petcock. At some point the fuel light began to glow almost imperceptibly. Sure enough it came on full bright about the time the fuel dropped off to a trickle. Notably, I then removed the petcock and flipped the tank on its side and drained almost exactly one US gallon!

Here's a photo of the frame plate mounted. It requires removing the tank, airbox and the upper stabilzer rod on the throttle bodies. I don't expect any real magical difference. Only hoping to avoid another case crack. Less frame flex would be nice but I'm not holding my breath.

Gary, We'll look forward to your good feedback on what you find!

"I love the smell of ( petroleum distillates) in the morning . . . smells like . . . victory."

Sounds like it's time to pull the tank and take the time to groom the wiring harness , greasing and firming all the connections.

Guzzi-Nashville hosted some demo rides at their open house last weekend. I mounted the Cafe Sport to taste the magic of the Gold Forks. I guess it would have been nice to spend the weekend on the thing really trouncing some nasty roads to see the magic. What was more impressive was the stabilty and tracking of the late model frame geometry and bigger rear tire/wheel. I was glad to get back on my twitchy, nervous early red-framed Sport. Of course, at 165 pounds ( but not 20 years old) the basic set-up is still out of reach of my novice capabilties.

So today I try the acid test again. The lamp is imperceptibly dim at 145-150 miles. At 152 miles it comes on bright for about a mile. Again at 154. At 156 it comes on bright again and sputters out of fuel. I brace myself with the bike in gear and do three or four very deep tip-slosh maneuvers. This takes me another 8 miles to a fuel station. The tank then takes 4.7 USG. I'll pull the tank again and clean it out of the petcock hole. I'll try again to fit the manual petcock TX sent me. Because of the return line to the right ( dead) side of the tank , I've decided it's best to run the throttle as wide open as possible when running low on fuel. This way more fuel is used to project the bike down the road and less is, theoretically ,trapped in the right side. "Er, honest Officer, 100 mph is the only way I could get to the gas station."

So when the mounts go bad can you actually put a finger on the coils and wobble them around with the tank and everything in place?

Well , you shamed me into it. Today I adjusted the high-idle mechanism so it actually props the throttle rod a bit. Remember , it's not just the cable but you must rotate the stop against the cam. I would have never found the adjustment if they hadn't painted it yellow. Worth mentioning: for better starting, roll your bike out and let it sit in the ambient air for some minutes to let the sensors begin to adapt. Unless you live in sunny California-where-the-girls-never-burn-ya, your garage is not likey the same temperature as it is outside. Give the bike time to acclimate. Second, try flicking on the run switch and just leaving the ECU to read the sensors for 4 or 5 seconds before attempting to start.

My 2000 shed 5 pounds and 20 feet (!!) of hose. The cannisters were in the tool tray under the seat. I'm still a fan of blocking the intake with a short hex drive bolt and a soft washer. Muuch tidier and will never create a vacuum leak, crack or blow off.

Brian, I was thinking of this one: Pete and Colin do the Bevelbox Shuffle

I looked in the manual for the pan bolt torques but no-go. Are they 4mm ? There's a chart for torque by bolt size. I'm running 34/38 on the Sport but it has a 160 rear with a small ( 4.5") rear rim.

Not likely the '01 would cook off any engine paint. Most of the wiring is right sided. Maybe you could risk a start up with the seat off so you could monitor where the trouble arises? Most likely smoke culprit behind the motor is gear oil onto the crossover . . .

Good advice all the way round! I really need to find a grounding point forward on the frame to earth the lights and horns as they are grounded back through the harness as stock.

I wonder if the US bikes have a deeper flat spot than the Euro or Canadian bikes? Different part numbers for the ECU maybe?

In prior discussions the conjecture was that the sensor is a Hall effect device activated by a magnet in a float. Hence the tendency to have some intermittent 'glow' before the fuel level triggers a bright 'on' condition at the bulb. Using this theory I removed my tank and petcock and cleaned the tank out really well. Lot's of crap came out of it. Afterwards the low fuel sender appeared to work more reliably. ( Notably, this was after a tipover which I thought must have dislodged all the miling and sealing debris in recesses of the tank). It would be great to understand what the sender really is . . .