docc

Warrren, It sounds more like the throw might be bringing the lever in contact with the starter cover. Although I'm a lttle cofused about your changing the pattern. 1-up,5-down? You have the lever pointing backwards? What?

you're in luck! That's the easy drip to stop. There is another shaft like that just above the one visible. They are both accessible with the starter removed. Clean the recess with some high flash point solvent and a q-tip. Once dry fill the area with some hi-temp RTV silicone. I made a plug for my lower pin from a Honda timing cover plug. The case contour on the upper pin won't hold a plug. but really the RTV treatment is tidy, easy and effective. Also, when inspecting the gearbox look carefully for the 6-speed gremlin. It is reported to look something like this:

Just a little 'heads-up ' that the range of numbers can be misleading. This concerns the mysterious ninth digit. The announced range of VIN starts with a "8" in the ninth place. My 2000 Sport has a "2" in the ninth place but is still in the recall. You would think 2 comes before 8 but, er, maybe not in Italian. If your 2000-2001 Sport is second hand it would be a good idea to cotact MGUS to be certain of your recall status.

So, Jonathan, what did the piece cost?

From the Owner's Manual: The oil level check should be carried out after the engine has run for a few minutes: the dipstick plug > should be screwed up completely. Also, marginal oil levels are known to contribute to the intermittent oil light under hard acceleration.

When my dealer ( at that time) sealed my gearbox, he swore by Yamabond 'blue.' Sure enough the cases never seaped after that. I'm betting Honda would have a good sealer also. My new gearbox appears to have a different sealer than the old. It is black and rubbery versus the old thin, brown olive oil based stuff.

So, Mike, what kind of oil did you use? ( Let's all admit: we love oil. we think about oil, talk about oil. We love the way it looks, smells and feels. We can't resist an oil thread. The only thing better is a suspension thread and this thread is both!)

And remember to screw the dipstick all the way in to get an accurate reading. Or your 'low' mark becomes the 'high ' mark.

I haven't heard back yet on price and availablity on the 'plata.' I'll give them a call tomorrow and post back.

Yes, maybe a vote for " 00-01 leaks like a sieve from every known point." There are several known points of breach but the worst is the potential case crack. This fluid shows up inboard of the shifter to drip on the left rear of the crossover. Hopefully the frane brace will help that crack tendency.

Ah! You're saying your Sport doesn't have the frame 'lug.' I get it. Apparently these lugs disappeared with the red frames. Your 'TT' has a black frame, yes? It is also the more relaxed geometry of the later bikes?

My cases were resealed under warranty ( with 'Yamabond') but the leak turned out to be the case crack.

Maybe fresh 'crush' washers?

Carl, which 'lug' are you talking about ?

No, the 2002 and newer frames have a 'strut' from the lower subframe just inside the porkchop traversing the gearbox to attach to the lower rear of the engine case. The frame support plate is on top of the engine-gearbox junction and fastens above to the frame.

I know the shift drum on the 5-speed can be shimmed to tighten up the shifting but I've never heard of shimming the 6-speed. I wonder what they shimmed? Any chance of a link? Thanks, docc

david-s, which year-model V11 are you riding? My 2000 Sport developed increased driveline lash until the gearbox was replaced. I thought it miraculous upon riding the bike again to find it had tightened up so much. Part of the gearbox recall is apparently to address the 'flexible couplings" on the transmission shaft internal to the gearbox. This is not to be confused with the 'cush drive" which is a component of the rear bevel box.

Yes, the 2000 Sport has the frame bracket, but, no not the 'plate.' It does show in the parts drawing and the shop manual for the 2000-2001 sport and the parts drawing for the 1100 sport-i and Spot 1100 ( carb). (Carl, does your 1100 Sport have the plate??) The plate is part number 01 20 28 30. At the dealer today we could not find drawings for the Centauro or Daytona. The frames for the 2002 and 2003 do not have the bracket at all. These are the more 'relaxed' frame and have the lower brace from the swingarm side plates the the engine case. I ordered a plate . We'll see what now. I hope I can save the corner of my gearbox. Plus I am confident it will add the chassis rigidity to corner like an R1 . ( BTW, my 2000 V11 Sport is a ninth digit "2")

Here in the South we have 'squares.' These are entered like roudabouts , surround the county courthouse ( a place you don't want to be invited back to) and are generally clogged with America's #1 road obstruction - the Ford F150.

Indeed, my shop manual shows that part as well. But it is not on the Sport. It appears the lower aspect of the bracket would bolt to the upper two fasteners for the junction of the gearbox and engine. It certainly appears to be structurally well placed to support the point at which the gearbox looks prone to fracture. I wants wun! Is there an actual part number?

The entire driveline is mounted 12 mm to the right. That along with the driveshaft and bevel box being mounted so low on the right, I would think a discerning rider could feel the asymmetry.

I'm surprised the two filaments together ( passing switch) didn't fry my 7.5 amp fuse. Maybe a 10 amp fuse would be better and still safe?

Ok, my brain feels better already ( earlier my wife looks over and says. " why do have your physics book out?" Er, trying to get more confused . . . Emry, I wonder how much the amperage goes up as voltage rises? I noticed my Sport will usually run 13 - 14 volts at 2000 rpm.

Leafman, that is a good plan. Also, check out this thread :relay failures. I thought all you Scura guys went with the euro switch so you can cut the headlamp off for that really dark look.

David, Since the beams are on a dedicated circuit the only draw on the 5 amp ( original 15 amp hi-lo beam ) fuse is the brake light, tach , three warning lights ,the regulator reference voltage amd , now, the relays for the main beams. 89 miles today and the 5 amp fuse held. I put a 7.5 amp fuse in the hot wire to the hi-lo beam. You got me on that draw since both beams together ( passing switch) would theoretically draw about 9 amps ( 55 watt lo and 60 watt hi together). I just switched on and held the pass switch 10 seconds without a pop or hiss. Not even any smoke .