al_roethlisberger

..hrmm, understood, but then again the basic procedure of setting idle, etc... and which screws we are talking about would be a great pictorial how-to if anyone wants to take it on al

.....yeah I know, I finally took a gas can strapped to back of my old FJ to find it's range. I ran out in the middle of the desert somewhere in Nevada al

... if you can get 275 miles, I will be one surprised fella! Many of us have seen about 220 or so miles on the '02s as the max since we can't utilize all the fuel in the tank. So, it will be interesting to see if the '03 has a longer range, and *can* get to all the fuel without crazy "wiggling" to get the fuel to slosh over to the pickup side Anyone run one dry yet? al

This is what I've got: Kisan Tail-Blazer Modulating Halogen Bulb ...you just plug it in. Although if you check my review in the "old forum" there is a bit of modification to the socket to get it to seat all the way. Just a bit of plastic trimming. It's worked great for me so far al

Yep, still very interested. I want to see the finished product before buying these or the solid ones we've said would be better if they could come back a bit... al

So Mike, here's what I am really interested in: How well does the '03 Ohlins front suspension compare with the LE tweaked Marz forks on the Sport? I had already planned to replace the rear with a Penske or Ohlins one day, but am on the fence about having LE rebuild '02 Marz front forks until I hear a good report comparing/contrasting the performance of the two from someone that has ridden both. And that would be you al

...and on THAT note, I think we need a step-by-step "How To" on valve adjustment. I know this stuff is on Guzzitech and in Guzziology, but I think these basics should be covered here for those looking. ...again, example photos would be a real plus as well. Any volunteers for this one too? al

...uh oh... here we go But I'm curious to see as well. On my '02 I typically get around 30mpg aroung town(~40 highway), and got a pretty steady 140 miles before the warning light. So it'll be interesting to see how much longer the range, and better the mileage on the '03 bikes are... if at all. al

...it sounds like we need a "How to set the idle, and basic tune-up" procedure posted in it's own thread, perhaps in the "How To" Forum. Ideally the thread would include photos so everyone knows which "screw" we are talking about at each step I too am slightly confused as we may be interchanging terminology at times Any volunteers? al

...all my troubles started after the first "service" too. I don't mean to impugne my dealer, but that's when it started. I wonder if the valves got adjusted differently. Who knows. I've been instructed to just go out and put some miles on it. And I'll do so. But honestly, that shouldn't have to be the "cure". I'm sure that most buyers expect their bikes to at least idle when new, and not be told that they need to get about 10k miles on them before they really loosen up But for you, I would think 13k miles should have been pleny of "loosening up" *sigh*

Are you talking about the rubber airbox "snorkel" inlets at the ends of the airbox intake runners right above the cylinders? The "pods" as referred to in regard to the Guzzis are individual K&N filters mounted directly to the throttle-bodies, with the OEM airbox removed. That being said, AFAIK, the standard/correct installation of the "snorkels" is facing down, maybe slightly rotated out away from the bike. I think the goal of these from MG is to keep water out of the intake. In practice you can probably rotate these any direction you want with little to no effect, other than verticle that is... as that might gather water Guessing... I don't think the orientation of your "snorkels" has any effect on the hot-stalling condition. It is fairly common with the V11 Sport, and in fact is plaguing my bike currently. How many miles are on the bike? I ask as there are some that maintain that this tends to go away with higher mileage/break-in. Since I only have about 3000 miles on my bike, I can't verify that theory. al

Well, I tell ya.. once you guys get it 100% figured out, summarize your findings and I'll put in the FAQ section Good work fellas....

So, as I've tinkered and added a few electrical accessories, while I've used decent connectors, I'd like to use some of the same weather-resistant AMP "Superseal 1.5" connectors that are OEM on the bikes. However, after a fairly thorough "Google" on the web, I can't find anyone selling them online other than the AMP site themselves(whose e-commerce app is currently unavailable in the US) and some Italian site that looked dodgy. So, does anyone have any recommendations on where to source these? It would be really great if there were a local electrical parts shop in the San Jose area that someone could recommend. AMP Superseal 1.5 Connectors Also, I'm looking to clean-up the various positive and negative ring connectors layered on the battery with a terminal setup. Any thoughts? I've looked around and have yet to find one I think is a good solution. My first thougts were the terminals that the car-stereo guys use, but most of these were too bulky and heavy, plus quite a bit too "glamorous" for my tastes thx! al

This is the second Tenni I've heard that had the fuel-pump "out front". Is there any chance someone with a Tenni can take some photos to show the placement and how it's mounted? On my Champagne '02, I can't see where it could possibly fit... thx! al

...heh heh, yeah you see how Jason recommended them for someone else's bike

...actually, this is the "vapor lock prone" arrangement which exposes the pump to the most heat, and is what most later V11 Sports/LeMans seem to have. As does mine al

Centauro controls.... moved the pegs down and forward for a more relaxed/touring/upright riding position. Dave also put on some of the Two Brothers(if I remember correctly) adjustable bar risers to complete the package. al

...indeed, and I've thought about that as well. I may have a look around once I take the tank off again in the coming weeks. However, off-hand, I don't have a good idea of where one could move the pump that would be better. Who knows though al

....WOW!! .... I thought maybe aliens had abducted you Jason Sorry to hear that the shop is taking so long on your head-work, that's really odd. The last we had heard, I thought it was "lost in transit" on it's way BACK from the shop so that then you could ship it to Mike! What happened? And yes, this thread is still going strong. In fact, it's something of a joke lately, the longevity of this thread Well, I guess we trailblazers in the area of dual-plugging are doomed to wait a year or so for the process to come to fruition fully. I still have to do some final double-checking on the coils, and find someone(or something like Cliff's ECU with an adapter) that can remap the ignition for sure. Plus, since I've JUST got the bike back, I don't want to tear into anything for right now. I want things to "settle" before more tinkering further Well, let us know it goes once everything is back. Sorry to hear that you've had these delays... amazing..... it's been months and months it seems and all they had to do was weld a fin or two and repaint it. In hindsight, I bet Mike could have done that for you?? Ah well al

...yes, anything more than "two shakes" is entertainment At least that's what I hear

..oh sure, I assumed all new fittings and lines. Although I'd probably go buy some aircraft certified fire/heat resistant lines, etc... and use instead. Just because they are cool Good question... although a guess: Maybe the pump is on the left side?? Can you see where the pump is by looking into the tank? As it is now on pre-2003 bikes, we can't get to the right side fuel anyway ...we just have to shake-and-wiggle to get it slosh over to petcock! al

..ahh, that makes sense, as the fuel would have to travel "up" via gravity/head-pressure to reach the pump, which may offset any benefits of putting it on top. Bottom line, I think MG didn't think this little area through very well ...and now in 2003 we have the real solution. Makes me still wonder what(how much $$) it would take to get a 2003 tank/pump and have it painted. It's not a priority for me, but it would be nice to have. Anything that reduces the chance of over-heating and cleans up the area under the tank it a big plus to me. al

Here's an interesting observation while reading the "factory service manual" for the V11 Sport last night... ...in the fuel-injection section, they illustrate where the fuel-filter and pump are located. In the Service Manual, they show the PUMP up on TOP of the spine under the tank, and the FILTER down UNDER the frame... which is completely opposite of how I've seen most late-model V11 Sport/LeMans. And is of course is how my 2002 LeMans is, with the pump UNDER the frame. This is interesting, as I had just been entertaining switching the location of the pump and filter to keep the pump and low-pressure side of the system cool. I wonder why it flip-flopped.... did the factory guys just get confused? ...or was it a conscious design change? I've also heard that some interim 2002-2003 models had their pump moved out in front of the engine/frame perpendicular to the frame, located above the oil-cooler like on some older models. al

Here's an interesting observation while reading the "factory service manual" for the V11 Sport last night... ...in the fuel-injection section, they illustrate where the fuel-filter and pump are located. In the Service Manual, they show the PUMP up on TOP of the spine under the tank, and the FILTER down UNDER the frame... which is completely opposite of how I've seen most late-model V11 Sport/LeMans. And is of course is how my 2002 LeMans is, with the pump UNDER the frame. This is interesting, as I had just been entertaining switching the location of the pump and filter to keep the pump and low-pressure side of the system cool. I wonder why it flip-flopped.... did the factory guys just get confused? ...or was it a conscious design change? al

ummmm...leave 'em alone?? Just kidding. I used to use scotch-brite pads on my old FJ's SS headers and that worked well. But I haven't bothered to really clean my LeMans' headers other than soap-water when I've washed the bike al