Baldini

Trampling on my dreams again Ratchethack! On good tyres & sorted fueling/suspension (ish) V11 (Scura is my experience) will perform well enough on medium twisty roads to live w/Jap sportsbikes - when going has some regard for personal safety & other road users. Before limiting characteristics of bike really affect pace, for me, it's too fast for the road whatever you're on. You have to ride Guzzi smoothly & to it's strengths which is mostly the torquey nature of the motor (say 60-70Ftlb compared with 70-80Ftlb for Jap litre sportsbike?) - it's not all about HP & the Guzzi motor is very flexible & forgiving. Useable torque is available consistantly across the rev range from even as low as 2,500rpm, I find I can happily stay in a couple of gears while Japs are running thru the box. It makes for a hugely enjoyable, relaxing ride on any good long run over medium twisty roads. Very tight (say 10-30mph) corners & stop start going does not suit Guzz, nor do last minute choices & indecision (chassis isn't as forgiving as motor!). You have to let it move around a bit under you & not fight it, but if you really push V11 hard it struggles as Ratchethack says, with all the limitations mentioned plus a pretty flexible frame. Sometimes my old Tonti gives me more confidence. Don't expect to ride it like a Jap four - it doesn't work - it needs a different style: smoothness & consistency. Sort the V11, learn it's strengths (don't try & impose yourself on it - you'll never win), learn how to get along with it, & let it get along & it might surprise you (& your mates). KB

Bolts were generously loctited but didn't take much effort to crack open. I'm not an expert but they were certainly no more than averagely tight for an 8mm bolt, & pos less so. Didn't feel they were as tight as 40-42Nm MG spec. Bike is UK spec 02 Scura. FAIK there are no model variations within Scuras, except territory related. KB

Guzzis take a fair bit of getting used to if you've not had one before, but can be got to go pretty good, however, tight corners is not natural habitat & hustling there is always going to unsettle a V11. They are, as you note, heavy & with a highish seat. There is also driveline backlash, a pronounced rearward wt bias, snatchy fuelling & sometimes a bit of a nomans land in lower gears. But as Dave says they can be got better. If you're pushing in corners you really have to get as much wt as you can onto the front or they push wide. Lowering front helps a lot. Correct springs & suspension settings also. But tank design means it's difficult to really get up over front wheel. Going down to a 170 rear from 180 improves turn-n imbalance. Good tyres (what's on yours?) give confidence & aid steering & /or stability. For confidence, try the stickier the better, but they don't last long. Is fuelling set up good? they can be got pretty smooth with dyno set up but can be very snatchy if badly sorted (esp distracting in tight going). Above all, thing is to ride them smooooothly. They don't respond well to inconsistent, ragged inputs (especially on the brakes) or stop start going. KB

Took engine out. Bit of f'in about but not too bad. Made a little trolley as Paul suggested (worked well but shop only had 2 swivel castors meant I couldn't get it to move sideways so easy...). Found it easier to disconnect electrics & remove subframe completely. Also best to remove exhaust system completely - I tried at first leaving the balance pipe in place but needed the space for leverage when motor hung up on dowel at bottom of bellhousing joint (slight corrosion). Will try a more informative "how to" & some photos when time permits. I have looked at the clutch. These are my first thoughts: The flywheel is showing no obvious cracks to the naked eye, but clear stress marks (dye penetrant test may show as cracks) are visible above outside edges of bolt holes in places that correspond exactly with cracks on previous failed flywheels. The large ring washer that sits around flywheel centre is not flat & stress marks on flywheel correspond with where washer contacts it behind bolts. (The outside edge of the washer is not in contact with the flywheel). Wether this washer is distorted at manufacture (possibly pressed rather than machined tho it does seem to show machining marks) or by bolts when torqued I don't know. Bolts have a very small contact area with this washer & I would have thought a larger face under the bolt head would have spread the load better. Another thing about the washer is that the centre hole where it sits on crank is oversize. The washer that came with the RAM kit is snug fit on crank. There is also a witness mark on the back of the flywheel where crank edge sits, that corresponds again with the point at which the failed flywheels have cracked around the centre. Every component of the flywheel/clutch assy is different to that on the RAM assy I have. To my untrained eye, there is no very obvious difference that would immediately explain the problem. The centre section on both flywheels is same thickness, & both flywheels weigh about same. I will start a seperate thread on clutch/flywheel with details of differences etc, & hopefully have some photos to make clearer. KB

Sounds like it could be timing chain flapping around. Loose chain will eat into casing which is a bad thing.... KB

I think it's just how familiar you are with whatever you're riding. KB

oh dear...I haven't had a tacho on the Tonti for years, only have a speedo cos of speed limits on road...to me dials are a distraction - Guzzi motor talks direct...shifting - no problem - for me it's all about feel & sound, maybe cos I've got so used to the same bike over so long (25yrs) but i just don't feel I need one, road or trackday. As to racing, well the last thing I ever wanted to be doing was looking at gauges but I guess if you're not that familiar with the bike or developing/tuning it... KB

you can fit longer pieces to sort that? KB

I'm putting in a RAM unit. Hopefully, all the bits'll be present... KB

Thanks again! KB

Paul, Thanks for the post. I am still unclear from your photos...it appears that subframe is unbolted from both spine & engine, but left attached to spine by wiring when motor is removed? Note you remove alternator - was that just to give clearance at front wheel? (I already removed front end). Thanks again for your reply. KB

Finally got round to looking into Scura clutch. Going to remove engine from front. Do I remove front subframe entirely from motor & spine? or can I leave it on spine (& save disturbing electrics) & get motor past by dropping it or lifting frame clear? Crankshaft phase sensor: I removed 2 x screws, it's tight on - is it just the sensor body is tight fit in it's housing? sealant/gasket cement? do you just pry it off? Thanks. KB

Compared with other V11's, Scura looks to sit much higher at back. Never measured anything, but always assumed shock was longer. KB

I use 0.20mm inlet, 0.25mm exhaust (8 & 10 thou). Runs good. KB

Still riding mine (77). No idea how many miles - 2 rebuilds in 21 years I've had it. Goes real well! KB

Guess it's horses for courses... I loved my T3, loved the comfort, the ride, capability, durability & looks. great for touring & general use. It didn't need much fiddling to stay rideable. But it had none of the topend of the LM nor the guts of the 950. Apart from cramped legs I found the LM11 comfortable (after replacing the hardened rubber plank that came for a seat), esp at speed with stock fairing (worked great). You could easier get your weight over the front & it was more than a fraction quicker than the T3 (well it's hard to know I guess - it certainly felt quicker to ride). It also needed much more fettling of carbs & timing to keep it running right & was prone to detonation when not. They now morphed into one bike & I guess to me that's the beauty of the Tontis - you can mix & match to get to wherever you choose. I can never see why so many people rave about the the V7sport or S3. unless it's cos it's the original of the species? Never ridden V7Sport, but S3 felt slow compared to LM & neither V7Sport or S3 can match looks of LM1/11 or T3 IMO..... I nearly bought one once cos you can race them in classic (family, common sense, resources & a weak will meant it remains just a dream). You can use all later internals & up against Nortons & triumphs of the time I figure they'd be a safe bet! Horses for courses I guess. Love all the Tontis meself....welll I think they went a bit astray after early 80's... bulky great over bodied things & christmas tree Calis....In my eyes, non of the Calis (inc the new retro version) look as good as the first T3 Cali... but then I guess we all have our own way of lookin at the world: A LM1 now will fetch 2 to 3 times what a T3 will go for... Well - whatever, it's another sunny day, I'm going out for a blat around: Tontis forever!!!! .... KB

How so? KB

I'm fairly ignorant about engineering but as a general principle : is NO oil use a desirable thing? If an engine is using no oil at all then is there any implication for longevity? Does no oil past rings mean not enough oil at rings....metal to metal = wear. KB

All been made into LM1's!

Saw a Red V11LeMans heading out of Betws-y-Coed last (bank holiday) monday, two up in company with few other bikes - anyone here?

PETE ROPER! Tried emailing you - bounces it back, pm'd you too. wanted to check all UK payments were credited to your account no problems? PM me or email. Cheers, Keith

Recoil M6 kit uses 1/4" (6.3mm). KB

Ben, We've all been there. I use RECOIL thread repair kits, Australian made - they're not cheap but very good & come with all you need to make the repair inc tap. M6 is pt # 35060 - these are 1cm long coils & should do I think - they're pretty strong. Dunno availability in US. Like Paul says, M6 bolts safest tightened using short handle allen key by feel. Long handled wrench makes it easy to put too much torque on. Maybe new gaskets? KB

This ain't an Italian forum. It's a Moto Guzzi Riders forum isn't it? Don't see why any non Guzzi should be more or less welcome than any other, wherever it's made. Richard, good luck to you mate. I'm pleased to read what you're up to. This forum isn't defined by nationality (bike or rider) but by attitude. KB