Baldini

Failures on Scuras reported here: cracks around the flywheel centre radiating outwards & flywheel disintegrates. This may be due to bad material, manufacture or assembly & may/may not be generic. If it is a generic fault then failures may be down to type of use. Someone said the latest RAM kit flywheel has a thicker centre than previous. If true then it seems they have recognised a problem. However, For years I have heard of RAM clutches in race bikes making much more power than ours, apparently without problems. I like the single plate, for sports use it works very well. The other side of the coin is that the bike obviously drops revs quicker too, so feels a little less relaxed, less of the locomotive effect. Take up is very direct, a bit of an on/off feel. When I put one on my Tonti I had to put on new timing marks. I'd be very interested to know if flywheel has been modified to a thicker material in latest RAM kit. If so I'll probably get one myself & replace Scura original to be on safe side. How much you paying? It may be worth speaking with RAM direct if anyone knows how? KB

Pete, I can't post pictures to site, wish I could - I email em to Jaap. But I didn't save pix you sent, computer's not big enough! Can you email it to Jaap? Best, KB

Pete, True... but it's not a Guzzi! If it's trackdays - majority of trackday riders I've seen dunno where they're going anyhow, last thing they need is more power, it doesn't matter what they're on. Guzzis work great on track & if you look slow you always got an excuse with a Guzzi! Like you say more handling is better than more power most times. Racing's a different thing.... Good to see you getting involved with the V11's, sure we'll all benefit. KB

Guzzi did exact same thing in UK, same results. KB

Say 1600 bikes w/single plate. 4 failures is 0.25%. What mileage have you (anyone) got on a single plate? Me - 11,200miles (18,000 Km) - so far no problems - works great. The man with the noisiest Single plate in the west - John O'S - how many miles you got now? In hope, KB

Kenr, Go back to post #29 on previous page - there's a drawing of parts belfastguzzi posted - he guessed this might be the problem. The ratchet arm & spring are top left. Spring part no is same but the ratchet arm no has changed. This is a common problem. There's loads of stuff if you search technical topics. One thread was called "spring is here" contains most of info. there's an FAQ on it too I think. Look for Pawl arm, broken spring, stuck in third gear etc etc... Hope it's sorted for you. KB

I'll vote when I tried more different tyres. Tend to stick to what works. I only used Diablos after std 020's. Didn't like 020's. Like Diablos, more grip, much more predictable & progressive, wear v. even across tread f & r. Mostly sports riding. Gonna trysomething with a more triangulated rear profile next, Michellins or maybe Avons? - I used 170 Diablo (5.5" rim) - improved turn-in massively but concerned it may run off tread on stretched profile, went back to 180 (Still prefer handling on 170). Get 2,500- 3,000 miles on Diablos, had 3,300 on 020's (by then they were v.unpleasant). I use Guzzi handbook rec'd pressures. Works well. Tyre manuf seem to rec'd higher but feel too hard to me. KB

The single plate clutch is noisy. In neutral, clutch engaged, engine idling, it's a loud rattle, goes away when you pull in lever. This is normal. If noise has changed from this, maybe there's a problem. Have you took it to the dealer? KB

Do you have std airbox?

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Thanks Cliff, will have a look & no doubt work up a whole new bunch of questions. You need old 15M supplied? (is a knackered one OK so long as the box is good or do you need a working one?). Ta, KB

You got a name & no? My dealer spoke with them - got nothing. Don't think AWSUK ( ) are getting anything from Italy. Good luck. Let us know what they say...if they get their heads out long enough to speak... KB

I spoke w/Redline importer in UK. They say Shockproof Heavy for Guzzi, MT90 for my Nissan Primera. I'm going to try it. KB.

Can someone explain what is closed loop/open loop? (for the not technically strong...) ...& a gas sensor? (bolts into blanked hole in down pipes to measure CO2 in exhaust gasses...???) Thanks, Baldini the muppet .

Is anyone using Cliff's MY15M ECU on a V11? How's it working out? Does it have to be set up on a Dyno? Is there any point in a muppet like me considering one or would I just get it all messed up ? KB

...just when tings were perkin up...drat

Lex, All parts are as listed in parts book. Does first (drive side) washer fit flush w/drive box? Is the spacer an interference fit between the bearings? Does the centreline of the caliper centre on disc edge before/after you shimmed it? If problem recurs, you could measure bits & post for comparisons. KB

Al, 4 failures, I think, spoken of here. Out of what? 1,500 + ( ) bikes with single plate clutch. The failures we have heard about have not occurred at especially high mileages & I don't think it can be concluded from what we know that all will eventually fail. With the evidence we have, it would be more logical to suggest that a small number of these assemblies have problems either in manufacture/materials or due to incorrect assembly. As a single plate user, I'm not happy w/situation & keep a close ear on the thing/eye on developments here. But I do not assume that it will inevitably fail. KB

Trouble with young people today - no imagination ... KB

I just used a straight piece of tube for bearing spacer, chamfered inside edges. Far as I know collars on either end are just to locate spacer in the hub so axle goes in easier. It's a bit more fiddly to fit axle now, but a lot easier to push old bearings out! Brian, that's a great tool you describe does it work easy as it sounds? Never heard that way before. KB

That'd be great - thanks! KB

Tony, I'm not sure. I think most of difference may be in cans w/ECU tweaking it. I'd love to know how yours runs with just Ti cans using std V11 ECU.... KB

Took it out today & swapped over ECU's a few times. No big differences, but bike runs noticeably smoother on original V11 ECU. It's a bit "lumpier" with kit one (marked California S) esp below 2.5K revs. Both pull cleanish thru to red line. Did a few runs over same distance, seemed about same - dunno any other way. Power felt similar. If kit ECU was correct one I'd expect bike to run noticeably better with that one fitted - right? KB

Had this from supplier: "The underlying chips are all identical, so we think that they are pre-labelled, and if they were out of V11 chips then they'd just use the California chips with the V11 programme, without changing the label.." This is something like I thought when I got the kit, but after seeing these special "Racing" "Titanio" stickers I'm not so sure. Pos relevant is a small dab of yellow paint on sticker? Bike runs good, but I'm no set up expert & not sure if it's as good as it should be (ie w/correct ECU). Any comments? Thanks, KB. Keith - what was wrong when using kit ECU? Tony -