GuzziMoto
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Posts posted by GuzziMoto
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I think you may be confusing thru with into. When I wash out my K&N's a lot of dirt comes out. You can tell if you use a wash bucket by how dirty the water gets. The one big disadvantage of K&N type filters is that when they get wet, the water can carry the dirt that is trapped in them right on thru to your engine.
I remember reading way back in the before time about Mt. St. Helens blowing up, and that the only way you could safely drive a car around with all the ash in the air was to have a K&N type filter. Of course at the time K&N was the only major player in the market.
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I believe the original post was not just about peak power but also about the shape of the power curve. Dyno's don't just measure peak power but how much power all the way thru the rev range. They are a useful tool to anyone interested in improving the way their bike(Guzzi or not) runs. Whether you focus your efforts on peak power, peak torque, or size and shape of the curve, is up to the individual. Like any tool, it is up to the user to decide how they use it. I thought the original post was interesting because it did not give the results I would have expected. I would be curious to see if others get simular results.
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And I would double check your valve clearences. Doesn't take long and can screw with the way it runs if they're too tight or too loose. When you make a change and the bike doesn't run right after, I go back over the changes I made. If it ran well before, there's no reason it should need a pc to run well now.
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Thanks all. I have no doubt I would like the bike. My only concerns/Questions are what issues can I expect. For instance the aforementioned relays or the recall we have yet to have done to the transmission on my wifes '00 Sport. Thanks for the info. The only question left is what will the price be. As long as it's not too high I expect to buy it. One cannot have too many Guzzi's.
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Currently I have a Griso and a Suzuki Super Moto(DRZ 400 SM). My wife owns a V11 Sport and it has been very reliable except the relays. I've loved Guzzi's ever since I rode a buddies Daytona back in the early 90's.
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Anybody have any comments, pro or con, about a '04 Cafe Sport? I'm thinking of buying one and I didn't know if it had any special issues to look out for. Any recalls? Does it use the same crappy relays as the earlier bikes?
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I'm guessing he meant speedo cable. I know someone with a Ballabio and it tends to break speedo cables. Bad angle coming out of the trans and bad routing.
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The only parts in the rear drive train I'm worried about are the universal joints. Lube those on a regular basis.
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From my experience with a more accurate type compression tester that screws into the plug hole, 140-160 would be good for a stock motor. Yes heat makes air expand increasing pressure. But think about it, tyres only increase 10-15 percent pressure wise with a 100+ percent increase in temp( not trying to start a big debate). Anyway, back to my experience. I've tested my wifes V11 sport and my Griso and got readings in the 140-160 range. Have yet to test my wifes bike with milled heads and shaved cylinders, though.
Also, I had a Buell X-1 that blew 170-180 psi. It shows you what higher compression(11:1 or thereabouts) means.
Keep in mind that just like tyre pressure gauges, each one will have it's own accuracy tolerance. Some are more accurate then others so comparing two different readings from two different gauges must be taken with a grain of salt. It's a very relative test, most useful to someone to compare two different cylinders or two different motors tested by the same guy with the same gauge.
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Don't listen to him. There were allready people here when the pioneers showed up. It's all about perspective.
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Elkridge, near Speed's.
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Be sure you do not store the battery directly on a concrete floor. Wood is best. If you need help with any future issues let me know. I'm local.
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Keep in mind that tyre size is general. A 180 tyre is not exactly 180mm wide. It can be anywhere within about 10mm either side. Dunlop, Avon tend to be wider. Pirelli and Metzler tend to be narrower. Michelin in the middle.
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Sorry but I gotta say it. There's no maint work a Guzzi needs that you can't do yourself. In fact they are easier to work on then most bikes. I will also add that while yor local dealer may not be as bad as some, my experience with them is that you can do it better yourself. You can take your time and lavish the love. But, to each his own.
If your 5 minutes away, are you in Elkridge? I am.
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Pad material has more to do with how long your discs last then rotor material. I prefer the feel of organic pads and as a plus they are kinder on your rotors. If you go to an aftermarket disc you ashould be sure to use pads that are recommended for that disc.
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That's a good point. I do believe the regulator references off the head light circut.
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All that really matters is does it stop the bike. Yes that smells of salesspeak. Do they rust and does a magnet stick to them(I know it's really more complicated then that but that will do for now).
I know Brembo has different materials that it uses for discs. I have seen and felt the difference between the stock brembos for a 916 and the top of the line brembos on a race track. That was a feeling I don't need to repeat. Once your used to racing quality brakes the plain jane stuff feels like Fred Flintstone.
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Not sure what you mean by Iron being a thing of the past. Most hi performance discs are still made of Iron. Brembo included. It is true that the type and quality has changed and improved. They don't typically use "grey" iron any more. Now they tend to use ductile iron. Stainless steel is the other main choice and it does not have the co of friction that ductile iron has. It is used on many stock brake set ups because it doesn't rust. Then there's the new ceramic composite stuff. Very trick light weight stuff. It's main advantage is in it's weight, not it's co of friction.
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No headlight should be easier on the regulator rectifier. Sounds like you've got electron issues. Not to sound stupid, but check your basics like ground, alternator output, etc.
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MotoMaster has fancy flame style rotor that looks interesting. They work well, but I believe they're stainless, like many of the others. My preference is for iron discs. Better co of friction. More consistent as well. But you should stay away from full metallic( and IMO semi metallic) pads with the iron discs. Braketech and Brembo are your best bets for iron. Although I must mention that they rust when rained on. Won't hurt the disc, but some don't like the look. I can't see them when I'm riding.
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189 ml is a fair amount. I have always checked my oil levels hot. Always have, probably always will. Every manual I've read has said to check level hot. Even my mother checks her level hot(not sure what that means). But I do think consistency is the most important thing here. I don't think your motor will blow up because you checked your oil at the wrong temp. But checking it the same way every time will help you spot changes that may need to be addressed.
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piccy taken just before he fell on his arse?
Hey, you know him too?
In my house his nick-name is Youcrashagain.
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Apparently dielectric grease does not conduct electricity, but it does not prevent metal to metal contact. It does shield the metal to metal contact so it does not corrode. There are things like Kopr-coat, that conduct electricity and heat, you can use. I thought I heard someone saying they put a ball bearing in there to help conduct heat from the head to the sensor.
I think the sensor has a ground wire and all you need to woory about is temp transfer
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I've only done it once, but I seem to recall taking the plastic piece off with the temp sensor still screwed into it. That may give the plastic piece more strength. But the metal piece is a better idea. I seem to recall people putting things in the gap between the sensor and the head when installed to improve heat transfer to the sensor.I think .
Dyno Results of Paper v. Gauze
in Technical Topics
Posted
Statement retracted humblely.