[9k service, what's involved?]

Sorry but I gotta say it. There's no maint work a Guzzi needs that you can't do yourself. In fact they are easier to work on then most bikes. I will also add that while yor local dealer may not be as bad as some, my experience with them is that you can do it better yourself. You can take your time and lavish the love. But, to each his own.

If your 5 minutes away, are you in Elkridge? I am.

[rotor change]

Pad material has more to do with how long your discs last then rotor material. I prefer the feel of organic pads and as a plus they are kinder on your rotors. If you go to an aftermarket disc you ashould be sure to use pads that are recommended for that disc.

[GEI relay gives up the ghost!]

That's a good point. I do believe the regulator references off the head light circut.

[rotor change]

All that really matters is does it stop the bike. Yes that smells of salesspeak. Do they rust and does a magnet stick to them(I know it's really more complicated then that but that will do for now).

I know Brembo has different materials that it uses for discs. I have seen and felt the difference between the stock brembos for a 916 and the top of the line brembos on a race track. That was a feeling I don't need to repeat. Once your used to racing quality brakes the plain jane stuff feels like Fred Flintstone.

[rotor change]

Not sure what you mean by Iron being a thing of the past. Most hi performance discs are still made of Iron. Brembo included. It is true that the type and quality has changed and improved. They don't typically use "grey" iron any more. Now they tend to use ductile iron. Stainless steel is the other main choice and it does not have the co of friction that ductile iron has. It is used on many stock brake set ups because it doesn't rust. Then there's the new ceramic composite stuff. Very trick light weight stuff. It's main advantage is in it's weight, not it's co of friction.

[GEI relay gives up the ghost!]

No headlight should be easier on the regulator rectifier. Sounds like you've got electron issues. Not to sound stupid, but check your basics like ground, alternator output, etc.

[rotor change]

MotoMaster has fancy flame style rotor that looks interesting. They work well, but I believe they're stainless, like many of the others. My preference is for iron discs. Better co of friction. More consistent as well. But you should stay away from full metallic( and IMO semi metallic) pads with the iron discs. Braketech and Brembo are your best bets for iron. Although I must mention that they rust when rained on. Won't hurt the disc, but some don't like the look. I can't see them when I'm riding.

[Does oil expand when hot?]

189 ml is a fair amount. I have always checked my oil levels hot. Always have, probably always will. Every manual I've read has said to check level hot. Even my mother checks her level hot(not sure what that means). But I do think consistency is the most important thing here. I don't think your motor will blow up because you checked your oil at the wrong temp. But checking it the same way every time will help you spot changes that may need to be addressed.

[How low is low?]

piccy taken just before he fell on his arse?

Hey, you know him too?

In my house his nick-name is Youcrashagain.

[engine oil temp sensor]

Apparently dielectric grease does not conduct electricity, but it does not prevent metal to metal contact. It does shield the metal to metal contact so it does not corrode. There are things like Kopr-coat, that conduct electricity and heat, you can use. I thought I heard someone saying they put a ball bearing in there to help conduct heat from the head to the sensor.

I think the sensor has a ground wire and all you need to woory about is temp transfer

[engine oil temp sensor]

I've only done it once, but I seem to recall taking the plastic piece off with the temp sensor still screwed into it. That may give the plastic piece more strength. But the metal piece is a better idea. I seem to recall people putting things in the gap between the sensor and the head when installed to improve heat transfer to the sensor.I think .

[Easy when you know how]

What he said. All I can add is that it's normal for the leading edge of the pads to wear more then the trailing edge, and that many rear brakes (and some front brakes) only have pistons on one side of the disk. When that is the case, it is very important that the caliper slide freely side to side(like butter).

[brake pedal removal]

Don't know about the specifics of the bolt your removing(side loads,etc.) but heating with a torch may help. If your brave, heat then spray penatrating fluid(careful most good fluids are flammable).

Good luck.