GuzziMoto

They are all pretty much the same. They have a few known issues, some potentially serious. The 2 valve motors tend to be pretty bullet proof, but a few of them had issues with the oil pump going and that is obviously a potentially serious failure. I think that was a small group of early bikes, but I would check.

I never much cared for the Ram mounting system. I have bought two mounts from these guys. http://www.touratech-usa.com/Store/1735/Zumo-GPS-Mounts They offer locking mounts. They work with the Ram mounting system but they are work with a 1/2" crossbar mount. They don't offer a bike specific 1/2" crossbar for a Guzzi but they do have a couple universal options that should be workable.

Thanks.I was reading an article from Amsoil claiming most synthetic isn't actually the real deal but processed dino. While I like Amsoil and often use their product, I do hate their PR. They love to say things that are usually based in fact but with a serious spin to make their point. There are different types and grades of synthetic oils. And one that is more "synthetic" is not automatically better than one that is based on dino oil. It could be, but it is not automatically so. Some that are more dino based, think of it as getting their raw materials from dino oil vs getting them from another source. But the oil can still be built to be as it was intended to be. It can still be a very good oil. Or it could be crap. But if it is crap it is not because it is based on dino oil.

I don't know if your pressures are OK, but I do know that it is normal for pressure to go down as the oil warms up. And switching to a heavier oil (like from 10/40 to 20/50) will increase the oil pressure seen at the gauge. Some 20/50 oils are thicker than other 20/50 oils as well. Oil weights are like tire widths, they are more of a general idea than an exact measurement. They are not regulated by anyone, they are self regulated using the honor system. Low oil pressure can be from a weak/worn pump or a tired motor with large clearances.

The "No Start" issue is a fairly common one with the CARC Guzzi's. Italians in general don't seem to understand electricity very well. There are a few ways to address the issue, I don't think there is one magic answer. The two main areas to address are the way the power is supplied to the starting circuit, which is what that link talks about, and making sure you have good clean electrical connections, especially to ground. My CARC Guzzi has suffered the syndrome as well, it started doing it after I switched to a lithium iron battery. But while I think the battery played a part in it I think the real issue is the two things I mentioned, poor electrical design and aging connections. The lower power of the lithium iron battery (yeah, I know, they claim the lithium battery have more power, they don't) likely just triggered the issue. It probably would have happened eventually as the lead acid battery got weaker. Anything that results in lower voltage/current for the starter can cause the issue. If the ECU senses voltage below its pre-programmed threshold it aborts the starting attempt. Something to remember if it happens again, you can always push start the bike.

The same seal leaking repeatedly after being replaced can be a sign of a bearing issue. Clearly, it is not normal.

That is a beautiful bike. Congrats.

That is funny. While I like the look of the CARC, leaving the left side open (my pipe exits on the right now), the CARC is heavy and does not accommodate a rear stand. I would happily trade it for something better. Also, the Griso gearbox is supposed to be an improvement but I find the V11 box works better and is shorter. Length is a major issue with Guzzi's, the longitudinal layout means that a length of the gearbox impacts the wheelbase and weight distribution. In this case, shorter is better.The Griso is nice, it is my rolling couch. But the V11 is a much sharper tool that handles better and goes faster. Of course, my Griso is an older 2v version. The newer 8v should be faster in a straight line. Probably not faster around corners, though. I am glad I own both (the V11 is really the wife's, but she lets me ride it) but if I had to sell one it would be the Griso.

They are all BASICALLY the same. But there are differences between years and between models. Some differences are obvious; the LeMans has a fairing mounted to the frame, some versions have clip--ons and some have traditional handlebars, and some versions came stock with Ohlins suspension. Other differences are harder to spot; the early red frames had steeper steering head angle and a shorter wheelbase, early versions had an external fuel pump and a pad on the tank top. The Coppa Italia is my personal favorite version. I don't own one but wish I did.

I thought there were two different seat bases. I could be wrong, and I am not sure when they changed. I thought it was the early red frames and then everyone else.

Maybe, but right now if I have a choice between two parts, one is made in China and the other is made pretty much anywhere else, I would pick the non-Chinese part. Sure some stuff made by non-Chinese companies that is made in China is good. But much of what is made in China is less than good. They have a long way to go and I am not sure they will get there. Japan has a much different culture. You know you can get bearings pretty much anywhere, right?

There are likely a few used sets of Ohlins around from Ohlins equipped Guzzi's, but I reckon they are few and far between. There are other bikes with Ohlins as O.E., but they may take a bit of customizing or fab work to make them fit. There are also plenty of other options for fork swaps, the GSXR fork swap has been pretty well covered already (and I am very happy with mine). Almost any fork you might switch to needs to be sprung and valved for its new application. Or even just having your forks set up/re-sprung by a good suspension tuner can make a big difference. In the end it comes down to what you can afford and how good you would like it to work.

While I agree with the sentiment that a lithium battery is not worth the trouble for a V11, I have not had the same good success with Yuasa as I used to have. They used to be the best battery, made in Japan. The ones I have seen in recent times were made in China and did not last as long.

There are people who have had good success with the Caswell coating and people who have had bad luck with it. As with any coating system, proper prep and application is key to success. So far my luck with it has been good.

I don't remember if I used acetone or not, I think I did. But the more important thing I did was to use a pound if drywall screws (coarse) to rough up the inside of the tank. Acetone should not affect nylon.

My wife's V11 had issues with the valves and valve guides. It caused the motor to burn a small amount of oil. It did not seem to hurt the way it ran. We had the heads off for performance modifications, so we had new valves and guides installed. Not particularly hard or expensive, I pulled the heads and gave them to the shop to do. A couple hundred dollars as I recall. This was around 30k miles, it now has twice that. I don't know if it is a common issue, it would be easy to have the issue and not notice. But if you have an issue with no real symptoms from it is it really an issue. As to AF1, with Aprilia parts they have often a great price. I don't know how they are with Guzzi's, but they are the go to Aprilia dealer in the USA. Dealers are always going to be more expensive than private sellers, but they have overhead the private seller does not. And you have typically more assurance that you are getting what you paid for from a dealer.

Those plastic scotchbrite pads are also good for prep before paint. They actually come in different "grits".

The rear spring is easy to adjust with the battery and tray out - six bolts, easy, not a PITA. I just reinstalled the OEM spring on my LeMans and set it to factory spec (152 mm) by adjusting the collar nuts. It's also useful to have the special tool for the big collar nuts on the base of the shock. But it'll be a while till I can put it all back together and measure sag. If you are carrying so much weight, you should check front and rear sag: Step 1 - measure with both wheels off the ground Step 2 - measure with bike upright and full (packed) luggage Step 3 - measure as 2, but now add yourself with all riding gear Obviously, you need a helper for all this. The differences between these measurements will tell you if you are operating within spec (there are pictures in the manual and ranges. Let's assume you do the measurements and they indicate that the bike is sagging more (dropping lower) than spec. Then you increase preload until it sags less and is within range. As a point of comparison, when I first measured my Scura it was dropping way too much at the front and the rear was at one of the limits of the specified range. Adjusting the front also brought the rear back into the middle of the range. The key to this whole process is to measure the current state first. Then you won't have to guess or experiment, the measurements will indicate the remedy. If adjusting preload does not bring it within range, then you need to spring for a spring (good thing it's spring-time). Alternatively, you might be able to get in range if you carry less stuff. After I set sag correctly, I turned the damper completely off and it was rock-solid stable. BTW - I'm still learning suspension - but I experienced such an amazing transformation of my bike's handling that am feeling a bit evangelical about it. I hope I said it all correctly, and I hope GuzziMoto corrects me if I did not. The only thing I would say different is that #2 I do not measure with any removable luggage. Number 1 is as you said. Number 2 is the same as number 1 except the bike is compressing the suspension under its own weight. And number 3 is with the rider, and whatever luggage/extra weight the bike will be carrying. Maybe I am wrong but that is the way I do it. To expand on number 1, you don't need to get both wheels off the ground at the same time. If I can get two people to help me I just have two of us pick up either the front or back of the bike and the third measures. There are different numbers out there for what you should see, different people have different preferences. But the basics are.... The measured difference between number 1 and number two tells you your free sag. That should typically be somewhere between 10mm and 20mm. The difference between 2 and three tells you your race sag. that should typically be somewhere between 25mm and 40mm, most seem to like it closer to 40mm than 25mm but not me. I am not trying to tell people what numbers to use for this. That is why I gave the range of common numbers. Everybody needs to research and/or experiment to find what numbers they prefer. If you get the race sag right where you want it but you find that leaves you with not enough free sag (ala Doc) that means your springs are too soft and there is nothing you can do to preload to fix that. You need stiffer springs. If you get the race sag right and that leaves you with too much free sag that means your springs are too stiff, and again there is nothing you can do with preload to fix that. The other thing to stress here is that this is not just a rear shock thing. The front and rear need to work together. Having too little front sag can be a lot like having too much rear sag. They are related. It is about balance. It sounds like there may be too much rear sag and/or not enough front sag on the OP's V11 when it is loaded up and that is leading to less than great handling.

I agree with JBBenson, proper suspension is better than messing with sliding forks in the triples. Typically straight weight springs are matched to your weight and riding style and progressive rate springs are a one spring fits all deal. Both are likely better than the stock springs for most riders, but I think the matched straight rate springs are the best choice. The main thing the progressive rate springs have going for them is the one size fits all approach allows the guy selling them to only have to stock one spring set. Straight rate springs are hard to stock as you have to keep a range of springs. Proper spring rate (setting your sag will tell you if your spring rate is correct or not) and getting the dampening sorted are what makes suspension work right. Once there you can adjust further if you need to. But don't put the horse before the cart.

Sliding the triples down the fork tubes, i.e., raising the forks in the triples, can be a double edged sword. On the one hand it does steepen the rake and put slightly more weight on the front wheel. On the other hand it reduces trail, which is the main aspect of geometry that makes a motorcycle stable. There is a happy median range of trail. To little is really bad and too much is a little bad. If you already have stability issues you should be careful sliding the fork tubes up through the triple clamps. It may help but it could also increase the instability. You won't know if you don't try but you might not realize it is an issue until it really is an issue. I am pretty sure your bike has more relaxed rake than the early version V11's. I think it has 26 degrees of rake. Many later V11 owners do the sliding the forks up through the triples thing to get back to or close to where the early red frame V11's are with 25 degrees of rake. But if you do that you can get to or near where the red frame bikes are with rake, but I am pretty sure you won't have the same amount of trail they do. If you have triples made that decrease the offset (or have your triples modified), or if you swap to other forks, like GSXR forks, that have less offset you can have the rake without the decrease in trail. Or you can try a little sliding of the stock forks and see what you think. Personally I am concerned that you have head shake, and think you should first set sag. Setting sag should tell you if your springs are the right rate. Springs that are too soft can't be resolved with more preload. It don't really matter how much preload you add the spring rate does not change unless your springs are progressive rate springs. I don't think Guzzi's came with progressive rate springs. Best way to start any journey is to start at the beginning. Setting sag does not require professional help. It does help to have a friend or two help you. But it can easily be done with the help of a couple of friends. If you get together with two riding buddies you can, as a team, do the sag on all three bikes in a couple of hours. Just take notes and keep track of what you end up with.

My wife's V11 is just like that one. Hers has a little more miles, a different exhaust, and a few other detail differences, but it is pretty much that bike. Hers has been, and continues to be, an excellent motorcycle. As to the price, that seems like an average price. Maybe it is even a good price as they usually cost a little more from a dealer.

I wouldn't dare do that. If you don't want to do that then don't do it. But we have done that on the wife's V11 and it is working very well. There are two main reasons a street bike needs a steering damper. 1) It has very aggressive geometry and is inherently unstable. There are more than a few sport bikes and race bikes that fit this category. The V11 does not fit this category. 2) The suspension is not set up 100% and needs the damper to mask the set up issues. V11's can easily fall into this category. There is a third reason for a steering damper, but is not really a reason for a street bike to NEED a damper. It is if the rider WANTS a steering damper. Some people prefer the heavier steering feel they impart. As has been mentioned before, The reason we removed the steering damper from the wife's V11 is because the damper had failed and it was screwing up the handling, making the bike wallow and weave. It was not obvious, but you could just feel there was something wrong with the damper set at its lightest, the bars would resist turning at first and then they would "let go" and turn easier. The slight stickiness would cause serious issues even trying to go straight. We removed it thinking we would replace it, but the bike handled so much more to my wife's liking with it gone. The steering was lighter with more feedback about what the front end was doing. It made the bike a much sharper tool. I am sure some here would not like it that way. And those people should not do so. But if you want sharper, quicker steering from your V11 and you have or are willing to put in the effort to get the suspension set up correctly it is an option.

No.

"It comes down to using a tire that is made to fit the rim size you have. It has nothing to do with Guzzi and everything to do with who made the tire and what size rim they made it to fit." If you have a 4.5" rear rim a 160 mounted to that rim will have the correct profile and the best contact patch because that is the size rim that tire is made for. Better handling and better traction. A 170 tire mounted on a 4.5" rim is not mounted on the size rim the tire was made for and as such the profile of the tire is wrong and the contact patch is reduced. If you have a 4.5" rear rim a 160 rear tire was made specifically to fit that size rim and a 170 was not.

As mentioned, my wife runs saddlebags on her red frame with no ill effects. Maybe they aren't quite as large as yours, but they can't be that far from it. They are standard full sized bags. Add to that the crap she straps down to the top, it can't be that far from what you are doing. Once she had those bags plus an oversize sleeping bag strapped on top. As to the geometry, the early models had 25 degrees of rake and somewhere around 4" of trail (I am not sure what the exact trail numbers are). Those aren't extreme numbers and there are many motorcycles out there with similar numbers. I hope you find out what is wrong. They don't all do that.