tmcafe

Just reinstalled my front wheel (had a new Diablo put on) when I noticed that the spacer between the right fork leg and the wheel (bearing) spins easily, though it doesn't seem to move along the axle. WTF? I've never had this happen. The only reason I can think of would be tightening the pinch bolts before the axle nut. I tightened the axle nut by hand barely snug, then clamped on the front brake and held it like that with a zip tie while I torqued the pinch bolts, then I torqued the axle nut (reason to do this would be to position the wheel so that the calipers grab more evenly--but my pads still rub against the disks so the front wheel won't spin more than about four revs (?) The shop manual is expectedly confusing, as it mentions tightening the nut first, then torquing the pinch bolts and then the nut. OTOH I know that some are adamant about tightening the pinch bolts first to center the wheel and prevent fork stiction. Any tips appreciated!

Thanks everybody for the feedback. The pics from jrt were helpful. In the meantime I've found a couple more folks here have this kit installed. It seems that those who got the kit outside the US got all the parts, including the oddly shaped one that attaches to the gearbox spline shaft that appears in the other image, and the shorter rod which isn't shown in either picture. I actually got only what's shown here: This is one of the "official" images of the kit (it appears also in an older Guzzi brochure I happen to have). I suspect the kit was sold like this in the US, in typical Guzzi (or Aprilia) manner. Although the kit looks great for fit and finish, and I like that simple functionality of the cams, without the parts needed for the gearshift I'm going to return it. Having the parts fabricated or otherwise sourced is more than I feel it's worth for me right now.

Just got this rare set from MI at a pretty good price. Looks great but I'm not sure how to install it. More specifically: How and what does the gearshift pedal attach to on the bottom part? What's the little bushing doing on the brake pedal? The kit has an extra part in the second pic (gearshift group, on the right). This pic can be found on some Italian sites. Definitely it looks like the part would go with the gearshift, but I don't have it in the kit. Did a search here, so far only helicopterjim has this setup. Before paging him, anybody chime in? Thanks. V11 Foot Controls (notice the extra part in the second pic)

On a related note, IIRC there was a post/topic warning on the oil level in the bevel box--filling to the check level at the opening on the rear of the bevel box would result in less than the required 370 ml. While I'm assuming it is true, I still don't know what to make of it. Chime in if you do.

I dont remember any info that specific on the bottle other than about synth base and SG rating. Should be a good oil.

RH, thanks for the comments. I know that many if not most of us fill up the engine with up to 4 qt of oil, and that even the "official" 3.5 lit full will raise the level quite a bit above the factory full mark on the dipstick. There have been several threads/posts about this. One of the reasons is to prevent oil starvation during fast acceleration (the Roper plate allows for an even higher oil quantity). IIRC you have an aftermarket dipstick which you custom marked for the full level. Now I can't recall exactly where you put the full mark, and what was the rationale for it, so could you refresh our memory?

Thanks Søren. This really sounds strange, more like a witchcraft ritual. Seriously, even though I can t figure out why this trick would work, as the problem is electrical, I ll keep it in mind as another thing to try.

Looks like it already did help when I needed it most. This evening loaded with some groceries in the store parking lot the effing thing wouldnt start no matter how many attempts toggling the kill switch. Fortunately the tank barely had more than a gal. left so it was easy to lift it from both rear and ft. Found what looked like your described connectors and barely wiggled them a bit and bike started right away. Will have to check more thoroughly though. Thanks Ratch!!

No response from the starter button today, so I suspected the old stuff (it's happened about twice in a year and half since I've had the bike). Micha at Moto I. told me how to go around this and it has worked before: clutch in of course, you hold the start button pressed down with the kill switch on, then toggle the kill switch back off. This time it didn't work and I tried it several times. Eventually it started, though it took a number of tries. So what's wrong? Should I suspect the starter button, or should I replace the clutch or sidestand switch (forgot which one is to blame--but I got a backup replacement already). Thanks!

Grazie Comendatore! Sorry but I'm trying to understand ed-zachary: you unplug the sensor wire at the engine block fitting? Asking because it looked like there wasn't anything to be (safely with no abusive force) unplugged or spun off other than the 21 mm hex brass holder. Also why does the OP sens. need to be removed and BOTH plugs to check oil pressure by spinning the engine? Sorry if Qs are silly. I'd check the OPRV too if I trusted more my mechanical (in)competence.

Thanks everybody for the helpful comments. One more Q: does removing the oil pressure sensor (even just to check/clean the connecting tube) involve removing the tank? It looks like it takes a 21 mm wrench which I happen to have, but I'd be so happy if I didn't have to remove the tank again. Also if the sensor is easy to remove I'd be glad to check the pressure with the gauge from Greg. I may install a pressure gauge anyway as that idiot light is too little too late. So far bike has been running great. Yesterday I put about 200 mi on it. Oil temp was around 90 C, but I was shocked to see earlier in the day 120 C after only a couple miles around town from cold! Yes it was hot ouside but still... Oil is Mobil 1 racing 10w 40, will replace with Elf 10w 50 full syn SG which I got a while ago.

Riding today around town as I was approaching a traffic light I suddenly noticed the oil light came on. I stopped the engine right there and pushed the bike into a parking lot. Temp gauge showed 120 C A (today was in the mid-hi 90s here). Later in the evening I went back to the bike and dropped the sump. Sure enough all appeared kosher, filter rock solid screwed in, nothing in oil nor mesh filter, pipes okay. WTF? I had similar stuff happen last summer. Anyway, I started the engine and the red light lasted just one sec after starting. Rode bike home no oil light anymore. The only pattern I see is that the light has only come on while the engine was hot. Pump is pretty much ruled out as far as experts say. All I can think of is bad pressure sensor, though I don t know what it has to do with oil/engine higher temp. Theres been at least one more topic here about the light coming on when the engine was hot. Any suggestions appreciated.

Just read this--a neighbor saw me wrenching on my bike and brought me the mag with the article: http://www.nytimes.com/2009/05/24/magazine...bor-t.html?_r=1

Good to know, though I've heard mixed things about Avon. In the meantime I got a Diablo Strada from my local dealer. About $200 installed, taxes and all. Though the tread doesn't go all across the center, it does seem to reach further toward it then on the z6, so it should be easier to figure out when it's worn.

Interesting. Too bad no such long term shootouts are done by US rags. I m assuming the Diablo STRADA would have done about on a par with the winner. Also absent is the Pilot Road. The z6 was going to win this comparo easily as a sport touring tire vs. more sport oriented ones.

i remember greg too once mentioned the lack of tread in the center of z as a deal breaker. so how do you know for sure when the tire is worn?

Until recently dealer of everything Piaggio including Aprilia and Guzzi too... Tough market here, I guess.

Thanks again. I remember rocker's story about the Roadsmart, kind of disappointing and it's not cheap either. Me880 are more like cruiser type, right? I'm tempted to try the Diablo Strada for now, and then switch to a softer front (Pilot Power, Diablo, etc). But for now I may go with what the dealers have here so they can mount it too, and perhaps I'll save the levers and the tire work for the winter

Thanks! I like the idea of the front and rear being replaced at the same time. Clear and simple, and one thing less to worry about. Curious if anybody changes their own tires with levers (I know that some of you have tire machines). I've worked with levers on tubeless tires (even managed to seat the bead with a small hand pump), but it was on tube-type rims and not as wide as the fat rear on V11. Is it doable, worth the experience?

My rear Metzeler Sportec has practically no tread left in the center and is pretty squared, although it has only about 4k on it. Front looks better, but I m thinking of replacing the rear with something with better mileage and wear pattern. I dont want Roadtec Z because of the confusing lack of grooves in the center. I know there have been good results with Pirelli Diablo Strada rear but dont know how it would match the front Metzeler. Any suggestions appreciated!

For the bars Moto Int'l in Sea. has some aftermarket bar end weights. They work well on my bike, you may want to check if they fit your bike too. Some folks have also used Barsnake to tame the bar vibes. You ll become smoother w the throttle, I too felt the first time I rode the bike that it was more abrupt than my other bike with a chain, though this would prove not to be the case.

Hi there, of course we're not biased, are we? Seriously, here's a few things that come to mind: 1. ride the V11 for a while and make sure it's set up right 2. Speed Triples are more common than V11, Triumphs are more common than Guzzis 3. Count your blessings: you're in Guzzi heaven (Moto International is the obvious reason). Welcome and enjoy.

When I got my V11, I had been actually looking for a good used R1150R. No regrets! Good luck!

Bologna, April 4 2009. Saw it in the store window as I was passing by on Via dell'Independenza, so I walked inside and took a pic.

Aprilia used them first I guess. Now apparently they're on Shiver, Mana, and on Guzzi 1200 Sport and Stelvio (?) in addition to the supermotards where they were first used. I wonder if there's a (minor) price difference between these mirrors as they are spec'd on both Aprilia and Guzzi. Logically there shouldn't be, but who are we to question Piaggio's logic