tmcafe

Okay, so everything's ready to go back in the instrument cluster, but the effing bulbs either won't stay in the precarious rubber sockets, or they won't light once inside the speedo, or even worse, fall off inside the speedo case (hope one of them eventually fell out on the garage floor, cause I can't find that bugger). Those copper tabs are shit and the rubber mount tends to squeeze the bulb out, especially once the mount is forced into the case opening. Tried a bit of silicone grease to make the sockets slide easier but to no avail. What's the enlightened way? For now I'm just trying to stay calm...

Thanks DanM!

While having the speedo out I found a bad bulb. There's 12/1.2 marked on it, and the manual lists 1.2w. From Autozone I got a 1.4 w (Sylvania code 74, 14v, 1.4w). Is it the correct one, ok to use? Sorry if it's a silly q. All other warnings heeded, including checking correct insertion in holder. And while we're on the subject, anybody know what kind of bulb goes in the license plate light? Thanks.

Thanks for the info Greg. Is there a better example of assembly work a la Luigi?

Trying to remove the D-section shaft that screws onto the reverse threaded trip reset axle in the old speedo/odo (knob broke off and small pieces of it are rattling in the case). The bugger won't loosen at all. I'm suspecting it's either glued or at least threadlocked real well onto the threaded axle. It looks a bit misaligned with the axle, so actually it makes me think that it wasn't screwed in but rather glued. I read that some folks got replacement knobs that didn't fit. Maybe the knob was sized for the Veglia odo reset axle and wouldn't fit the ITI ones. Also haven't found a way to block/hold fast the reset axle so that I can put more torque to try to loosen the D-section shaft. Anybody done it?

Sorry, I know this has been discussed before (I've read all the relevant postings). Anyway, my trip odo reset knob broke off too. I can still use it if I push whatever's left of it into the D-shaped section of the metal shaft. I got a new odo under warranty, but it came without the knob. I know one of the last fixes was a high-end metal knob machined by Sluggo (this is beyond my current capabilities). So, any other reasonable fixes of late? (other than getting one from Guzzi which may or may not fit according to some of the experiences posted) Thanks.

Thanks everybody. Trying to follow the advice. Only trouble is that the goop on the screws doesn't disolve easy with any of the solvents I have. Tried gasket remover, brakleen, carb cleaner, even denatured alcohol. The goop, now rubbery perhaps from solvents, IS removable, only it's a pain, got to do it piece by piece along the thread.

I'm installing the Roper plate (had to change oil and filter again and said WTF, I've been putting it off for too long). So I've been following Greg's instructions posted here. Anyway, I noticed that the perimeter screws on the inner sump (not the 4 ones that hold the journals) were hard to remove and had an amber color dry film near the heads. Were they threadlocked by Luigi, as it may seem, and if so, should I clean them and use some kind of Loctite (I only have blue)? Given the oily mess in there, I'd assume the inner threads would have to be cleaned as well in order to make any Loctite work. So what's the scoop? (or the goop ) Anything to worry about? TIA

That's how it is on my bike.

Incidentally (wonder who made this map?) I like to see Romania in its pre-WWII shape

Weird for the tire to wear out so fast. You've run the Stradas before, right? What do you suspect this time?

Thanks for the info! Good timing, I was just going to ask for details. I'll be installing the new one and hope that with some preventive maintenance it'll last longer than the orig. What kind of grease? Would teflon spray grease work?

Likely stupid q but trying to understand: if two shocks differ in length but have the same stroke (in theory at least) the rear wheel travel will be the same, but the longer shock will result in a taller ride height? Also coversely if two shocks are of equal length but differ in stroke, rear will bottom at same height but one shock will cause more travel (and a taller ride height) ?

Yes, and that's the major surgery way (cut off the case to get inside etc). But Greg said that he's figured out a simpler way by just piercing the plastic housing with a sharp soldering gun to make access for greasing. Not sure if that's for a fix or more as prevention. I got a new speedo under warranty (the original is almost out, turning now and then, and the trip reset with same symptom as above). When I install it I ll ask for details on how to grease and I may document and post the details here.

Without a part number from the actual shock (i should have recorded it when i took off and replaced the shock, last year, duh) I asked the Ohlins rep whats the shock stroke for MG 1260 and 127 (found both part nos in a thread here, the latter cant be as it is the one with remote). He said its same for both, 70 mm, but thats metal to metal (plastic bumper is 19 mm). Did you actually notice or better yet measure more rear wheel travel with the Ohlins vs Sachs?

Sorry to revive this old thread--at least I m doing my homework. I do have a shock spanner, but is there a way to use it on the shock adjusters without removing damn near everything (tank AND airbox)? Removing side panels and rising tank won't do. So far the drift and mallet seem like the only option. In purgatorium Luigi will adjust the shock preload for hours a day.

Thanks! Looks like the "official" number is another example of "accurate" info from Luigi. The fork is listed by Ohlins with an actual 120 mm. Would be interesting to find a figure for the rear susp. travel. For now I'll use your estimate.

In the meantime I've found some numbers: 120 mm front, 128 mm rear. Anybody can confirm?

Anybody knows what the "official" numbers are for front and rear suspension travel on bikes with Ohlins (Cafe, Coppa, etc)? Sorry if this info has been posted here but I couldn't find it. TIA

Thanks RH. Indeed the axle design--with the slots to hold it and counter the torque on opposite side indicates that it is to be torqued without the fork bottoms pinched by the bolts (four, two per fork on my bike--more like type 1 in the manual). FWIW the manual mentions the speced torque on the axle being applied last--see F p. 4, but we know Luigi the manual editor should be taken with a grain of salt. Torquing the axle first does make more sense. Grazie!

Thanks. It is obvious the pinch bolts don t do anything to the bearings. While I understand that the spacers keep bearings from being affected by the side loads caused by torquing the axle, I m still wondering about the effect on the forks. They are meant to be as straight as possible in order to minimize stiction. Torquing the axle would change the distance between the fork bottoms--unless the distance was secured by the pinch bolts. OTOH it might be that the torque value for the axle just brings the fork bottoms together at the correct distance. Clearly the axle is designed to be torqued on its own (without resistance as in the case with the pinch bolts already torqued). I saw the tool you describe in web pics. Toolkit doesnt have it--no surprise. It was prolly put together as a standard kit for V11. It also has no tool for the ft axle nut. I bought a fairly inexpensive 30mm spanner for that.

Thanks that soun ds like a useful tool. Still wondering why do some folks mention the potential issue of putting too much pressure on the wheel bearings if the axle is torqued before the pinch bolts?

Thanks Baldini and RH. Yes Ohlins stock but mines are diff though: 30 mm nut and washer instead of the Allen, and those two slots on edge of opposite wider end whereas yours seems to thread into right fork bottom. Four pinch bolts two per fork where yours has one set on right. There was a pic of that kind of axle maybe I ll find it. Might be common with Ducati. Also if you find a large pic of a Coppa (the official pics of the Cafe don't seem to show the axle nut setup on mine!--typical Luigi) you may be able to discern the large axle nut on the right fork bottom. As for the through hole RH mentions it can't be used for torquing as it's further in where axle is inside fork bottom.

Thanks for the feedback. The wheel did at most four turns when spun with force by foot. I ve seen much better. The axle has a larger diameter section on the left with nothing for a hex tool like in the rear. Instead it has two opposite holes about 1 in from edge (probably to insert a rod to pull it out easier) and two semicircular notches on the edge--the diams of these are about 1/4 in. I assume the only way the axle could be torqued to 90 as specd would be to insert a thin tip something like a flat screwdriver to align either notch with the split in the fork bottom and jam it against it while nut is being torqued. Not sure i understand how a shorter spacer (fortunately both front and rear spacers seem to work fine) would increase bearing friction. Would it be uneven pressure?

Thanks RH and FB. Tightening the axle nut first obviously makes sense as it eliminates any play between fork bottoms, spacer, and wheel. Actually in my case the problem was solved kind of half way through: I tightened the axle nut up to the point where it started spinning, as there isn't anything at the opposite end to counter the nut torque (unless you stick something in one of those two semicircular notches on the edge and align it to stop against the split in the fork bottoms. So the axle got tight enough so nothing was loose on the axle, then torqued the pinch bolts, then finally the nut was torqued easily. But the effing brakes are still rubbing against rotors. Maybe the calipers could use some cleaning.