gstallons
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Posts posted by gstallons
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Good logic..Save one Ducati for wheelies,stoppies,burnouts,etc.. All the things you are too old to do.
Which reminds me of a joke my aunt told me... What are the last four words you hear every redneck say?
"Hey y'all watch this!"
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Where do you live? I would probably buy from the servicing dealer. He will be more likely to help after the sale. It will be nice to drive an hour vs 5 hours to buy though.
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My 2002 parts catalog shows 1 part # for all bikes. LeMans,Rosso Corsa, Sport,etc... Pt # 01 46 05 60.
You need to look at Rich Maund or there is another(can't think of his name) man mentioned on this site that does good work. IMO Corbin is the WalMart of saddles.
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Never been into one of these. Cn you post a picture of the replacement parts in order?
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I thought I remembered the (whole)bike in the picture.It was too beautiful for words......
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What does the clip look like? Can you post a picture?
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The Stelvio ( for the market share it's after) is absolutely beautiful.. The Griso I would have to look at (the color) in person. It can be painted to suit anyone else's taste.Belfast Guzzi's sunset pic of his Griso tells me "Black is the only color" for this bike.The Griso is the sexiest bike MG has sold to date.
BFGuzzi by the way, tell us about the setting where you took this picture I am referring to!
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Good , let me know how they turn out!
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NoNoNo!!! Check it with the coil wire disconnected,unplugged,removed not in series,etc. You will put one test lead in the cavity where the coil wire WAS and the other test lead where (touching the wire pins) the wiring harnes was plugged in. This is where you are looking for contniuity of around 3 ohms.
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The primary and secondary windings share a common connection. That is why all 3 of these should read continuity. This "coil" is a transformer that steps-up voltage through induction and turn ratio in the windings. That is why you will get a reading at all 3 connections. You are testing this without the coil wire plugged in ?
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To mske sure we are on the same page.....measuring the resistance across the two terminals at the coil plug-in I get around 1ohm of resistance. Measuring from either of these terminals to the coil tower (plug wire connection) I get approximately 3 ohms of resistance. If any of these are open, replace the coil.
p.s. 1ohm variation in the resistance is not extraordinary.....
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Anyone BTDT ? Docc needs your input !
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Send me $1000.00 and I'll see to it you are properly forgiven.
BTW, did you get the brackets made yet?
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Who won the ebay stuff after all?
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I forgot to mention, when working on ANY hydraulic brake parts DO NOT use any petroleum products on any rubber parts or honing bores or anything whatsoever. If you do this you risk getting petroleum on the rubber parts and BAD things happen!
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Send me your ph # privately and I'll call you and walk you through it.
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I assume you are replacing the terminal at the end of thespark plug wire? It should read 2-10k resistance after you repair it. If not replace the wire. Clean thie cavity TOTALLY where the plug wire plugs into the coil. Check the resistance of the secondary(ign.coil) side compared to the other coil. If you are not sure (check the price first) buy another coil. You would not want this to break down on the road?
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Not to be a smart**s but what procedure did you use?
The foolproof method I use is to gravity bleed. Open the bleed screw and let the fluid run all over the floor occasionally refilling the m/c reservior. Leave the lever ALONE. Close the bleeder when you have wasted enough fluid. Try it after closing the bleeder screw and covering the reservior. Work the lever a few times before condemning your work.
p.s. it should be fine.
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"bodge point" what is that?
stubborn 1100 sport
in Special place for banter and conversation
Posted
Who are you ? "ghostrider"
Watch this please.........and then leave a comment.
GHOST RIDER - BUSA TURBO