gstallons

I'm glad to find that out about the incompatability of the two fluids!

First of all you have to understand why this plate is made. It is designed to retard the flow of oil in the crankcase from side to side or front to back. It also is designed to catch oil droplets and return them to the pan to keep them out of the way of c/shaft rotation. Is it the best design? NO Is it the best so far? YES. A compliment to this would be hinged doors in four corners of the pick-up to allow the oil flow towards the pick-up and not away. Mr Roper is an inventor not a salesman. The Moto-Spezial oil pan looks good to me because it has a deep sump to catch the oil in a vee design. p.s. If you don't want it don't buy it..........

You are a free moral agent. You have a choice to do what you want.

Ratchet' was referring to the engine valve adjustment. That is the only thing I can see that would cause this "flutter". Before you go too far swap sides with the hoses to see if the problem remains on the same side.

i hope you use "silicone" brake fluid. It is not too cheap or too easy to get. The main reasons are high boiling point (I hope you don't brake THAT hard) and conventional fluid is very hygroscopic. Hygroscopic means that it attracts and holds moisture. One less thing you want in the hydraulic system on your bike.

If you are under 21, it will be wonderful!!!!!!!!

I see some owners have installed Ohlins on their bikes ttat came with Marzocchi brand. Everyone that did is happier and about $1500.00 usd lighter. Can the Marzocchi forks be reworked to perform up to Ohlins quality? Also Showa forks are available at a bargain price.Can they be reworked to perfrom to Ohlin standards? Also do the Showa need all the adaptation mods the Ohlins do?

Please, don't hold us in suspense...........You didn't do like Robert Pirsig, when he trailered his bike home to find he had ran out of gas?

Get the bike, make love to it for a couple of weeks, then decide IF you want do anything about the paint job.............

There is a product "Stabilant 22" available at auto parts stores that sell Standard Ignition parts. It is a conductor enhancing liquid I apply to connectors that are exposed to moisture or low amperage that will experience problems with continuity. It is NOT cheap but it is effective! p.s. I do not like bullet connectors any more than anyone else so make sure they are a tight fit.

When the time comes, go to a hardware store, auto parts store or a FASTENAL (they sell fasteners,etc.) store. Buy metric washers for your application.There are metric "wave" washers that I like best. Also Fastenal sell "Shnorr" brand washers that are top notch! Always use some sort of washer with a nut or bolt. Re-read Ratchethach's input....

Who is the winner?

Picture #1,2 Just from looking I would say just push the white portion and the black portion together and then (while holding them together) slide the connector off the fitting. Picture # 3,4,etc. The one hose with no clamp(gently) pulls off. If you can get a 90 degree pic (tool) and use a lubricant toget between the hose and fiting ,it will make it easier to remove.The last picture is of a vale tha allows air into the tank and will not allow fuel to travel out. The lines with the clamps are supposedly non-reusable. You can slide a small screwdriver blade or ice-pic to pry the clamp open. Do not do this with applying pressure to the pipe or fitting. You do NOT want to break anything , remember plastic,fibre-glass,aluminum,etc. will not tolerate much twisting or bending. The clamps can be reused with recrimping or if you are scared you can use worm type hose clamps. REMEMBER; ALWAYS LABEL LINES TO GET THEM BACK IN THEIR PROPER PLACE!!!!!!!!!!!!! After 20 min. all hoses look identical.

I can certainly use it!!!!!! My address is. Gene Stallons 2403 crews rd Wickliffe, ky 42087 Where to and how much on the cost?

Jf you were able to turn the key off when you got off at the end of the ride you're o.k. I'm sure the Ballabio has bars instead of clip-ons. I own a 87 lemans se. After I get off an hour long ride, it is all I can do turn the ign.switch to the off position. You are going to have to get used to the pain or excercise your arms and wrists.......

I have an excellent idea.... You,daddy and sonny boy take daddy's car out for a spin and duplicate the joy ride to see who is responsible for what? Keep the trans. in low range for the best results .....I would not help him ANY with parts and or labor. Your friendship is over either way. Also the plain shell bearings use babbet (solder yes solder) as the final part of the bearing shell. This composition must be hard enough to last and soft enough to absorb (bury) foriegn matter to not score the shaft journals. This babbet is probably .0015" thick so there isn't room to flog very long with no oil.

Dimitris, The voltage of the t.p.s should not matter. Did this operate ok before the modifications? When did this the problem start ?

Anything...... replace it..ride it today and see what happens. By the way,have you washed the bike? Also buy a fuse assortment and make sure it a name brand,e.g. "BUSS" . Make sure you have extras with you or on the bike. These fuses are color coded so you won't have to spend time guessing amperage ratings!

Remove each fuse,hold it up to the (sun)light to see if the fuse is ok or blown.You need to own a test light and ohm meter. Have a friend ( that knows how) to show you how to use them to check continuity,voltage,etc.. Lights are usually fused and sometimes operated through relays.I am not near a wiring diagram or I could be more specific.

Can you explain the earplug ticket???????????

That is HIS problem.

Look back to savagehenry's reply..........

No, You do not HAVE to install the Roper plate and you don't have to pull the pan to change the oil filter. You don't have to wear a condom. You can't put a condom on after the fact either. Your reluctance tells me you're not a mechanic. Find someone who is, and ask them to help you a couple of times and ask them to explain the theory (or you can read the thread) about the plate. Same goes for the filter. Remember that attaching the clamp on the filter will not give you the ultimate experience of engine failure. Remember the airplane analogy...

D, You will find the pan removal a part of the ritual,have plenty of gaskets around for spares (along with the Roper windage tray you will install) and the inspection of the engine internals. When you r&r the filter you will get used to "just right". There is no law against practicing with the old filter,on & off as many times as you want til you feel comfortable. To me the idea of putting a hose clamp on an oil filter is the most ridiculous idea ever thought up. Also if this powerplant was and is on an airplane I would be UPSET if it was not applied to the filter that backed off and caused an engine failure at 5k ft. altitude. With that logic in mind place the clamp on the filter body where it will stop filter rotation IF it ever starts reverse rotation. So what if it takes you an hour to service the bike it is your metal sex machine!

Just ONE pole vault with the side stand and your life will be forever changed! You won't need any device of any kind to remind you to make sure the sidestand IS up.