Greybeard

Mechanically, something is not jiving there, RH. Why would the end that you apply a locknut to and would want secured (the RHS, because of not being certain of depth of engagement in the swivel end fitting) be the end that you look to revolve for adjustment? Conversely, the left end with the 4 lobe adjustment wheel, passes through a block that's not threaded (on the bell crank of the left throttle body) and the white 4 lobe wheel is not staked but turns in & out freely on the threaded shaft end? No, the shaft is stationary while you turn the white knob.

Well, the RHS does have a lock nut that is still tight and no lock nut on the left .....and the tuners marks on the right were not disturbed. Don't screw with me now RH!

Hit the bench, hang some iron and soon you'll have a V12! Compliments to the artist.

Thanks, RH, that clears up a LOT! Prior wrench had dabbed yellow assembly paint on the white knob/rod thread mating area and I noticed a crack in the paint so I surmised I had turned the knob on the shaft. I certainly didn't force anything so maybe it was just cracked or maybe it did actually move. But, as you explained, if the adjustment is made by the knob staying in position on the shaft and the shaft threading in and out of the swivel end on the right, then I'll belay the Loctite! Ok, just went out and checked things closer. The RHS is still tight in the ball swivel. The left side needed a 1/2 turn back for the crack in the assembly paint to line up. Since the deities are smiling on me and I didn't screw around with anything else, then it should be back to where I started! The tech who fettled this bike had some attention to detail anyway. Assembly paint on all the adjusters, etc. AND he'd installed bullet ends under the seat for the TPS. I read the mv and it's 154.9. Doesn't seem worth it to try to get the xx4.9 out of it, does it? I still need to light it off with the balance stick on just to say I looked.

In the "How To" section in the TPS/Throttle synch topic it mentions "backing off the right throttle idle screw", but then I can find no further reference to re-establishing a setting of that adjuster. If one is to "back off" that setting it would reason that it was set in the first place, but subsequent idle screw adjustment only refers to the left side. I question this because I must admit I did a stupid thing. Had it idling on the stand one day and I just wanted to bring the revs up a tad. Not even thinking, I twisted the knob on the synchronization rod! When I initially twisted it, the knob itself turned on the threads. When I twisted it back, the rod turned on the other end! Since it was running fine before I zoned out I'm following the synch instructions from where one "Closes the air bypass screws" I'll thread the synch rod rod into the swivel end, maybe with some red Loctite. Then put on my synch tool and turn the white knob until all is back to snuff. Don't think I even need to upset the air bypass screws. I am a tired old git.

Thank you, I'll have a look.

ANYONE know about the "grommet under the fill cap" ? Not referring to the cap-to-tank seal?

No, I removed the so-called "tipover valve" under the tank. From what I've read that was allegedly the culprit in creating a vacuum in the tank. Tell me more about this grommet under the fill cap!

I'll have to take more pics. Obviously no photographer! These are the LSL Spiegler FatBars and risers. Lousy shot angle as they don't look that high in person. I machined a set of expanding arbors for the Napoleon mirrors as the i.d. of these bars are smaller than the Napoleon mount but there are some arbors available on line. Quite comfortable.

Opened the tank this afternoon to put in some StaBil and.... The dreaded Tank Suck. "No biggie" you'll say, but I don't have no steenkin' tip-over valve! Tossed that when I discovered the US is the only place that has them. I know, pull the tank, check the tube routing...but it's been on the lift so long sorting the bars! I wanna ride the damn thing! I'll post pics of the bars later.

As long as the upper and lower mounting holes are the same I'll jig it up and work from there. Again, not at all constrained by items needing to be mounted to the sub-frame itself.

Thanks for your interest, hack. Fortunately , modifying a subframe is the least of my concerns. Cutting, machining, welding are all in my skill set. Redesign of suspension geometry is not, so I'll avoid the lowering route as long as possible. The bike is not unridable as delivered, but I'll not settle for generic dimensions when I can do something about it. My initial question was based on the possibility of a '00 subframe being available and it's my philosophy is to start as near net shape as possible. Items touted as being "machined from 5000 lb. blocks of aluminum" just shows piss-poor planning and too much money if asked. Time is an issue as well and I never cut up the only example of anything I have so if I can start with another and do minimal mods I'm ahead. Also, I'm not limiting myself to replicating what exists. The stock seat is far wider than I need as well so I envision either a cafe style seat or an abbreviated biposto design. I carry no passengers so the sky's the limit. I've inquired here before in that interest of near-net shape and not reinventing a wheel as most I've seen are, indeed, round, but I've not seen them all so ideas are welcome!

Would the v11 sport subframe be the same for '00 and '03?

Actually...it may not be such a far-fetched idea at all! A very similar application, similar if not greater loads and lube isn't a huge issue. http://bombarsbeemers.com/JL.aspx Hmmm...I know I've got some 660 bronze somewhere. Not Oilzite but I could machine some lube channels in to hold grease. Could even machine a dust shield right onto the shape.

I wonder if any of you remember how evil handling the CBR900 was when Honda first brought it out in 1993 ? Like dancing on a razor until Kaz Yoshima of Ontario Mototech machined a set of clamps with more trail. Chalk & cheese. But I also know of 2 other Hondas which were touted as the paragons of stability that pitched both their owners through slappers which happened without warning and no hooning. My 1990 VFR and a friends CBR1000. '91 or '92. Both problems were traced down to the steering head bearings. On both bikes the bearings had been tightened too hard and dented the races, allowing the balls to then cycle in & out of the dents in the race at a certain harmonic. Fwip! Off you go then! 2001 Suzuki Bandit of mine. Let go the bars and decelerate from say about 50 MPH and such a wiggle you would get! Swapped out the loose ball bearings for tapered rollers just like we put in the Hondas and not so much as a twitch.

Yes. Had all the controls off for the bar swap. Raz, the fast idle lever on the V11 wraps completely around the bar rather like the throttle and is held onto the clutch bar mount with 2 screws. I'll just try one from my stock and see how it works out. OR...better yet! I'll lash my steering damper onto the assembly! Hell, it serves no purpose anyway!

Oh, I dearly wish I could, but these old bones and some internal systems are only good for about 100-125 miles at a clip. I make up for a short tune with a quick and tricky tempo though! Gray hair, a steady hand and at least a vague recollection of where the next turn is and I'm a happy man.

Ya know, I really shouldn't be surprised. My mother is Italian, all 90 years of her, and erratic behavior is 90% of her personality! Mandello on Thursdays you say? I'll be at JFK on Wednesday.

Err...Ok. Cool. Unless it has to do with transplant rejection I've got a drawer full suitable replacements. But what the hell happened? It was working fine when I took the controls off the bars not 3 weeks ago. Mea culpa though, I should have asked "is there anything I can screw up on the bars to loosen the fast idle lever?"

For no apparent reason my fast idle lever refuses to stay in the warm-up position. Plenty of slack in the line after the high bar installation; it'll move into position OK but the spring just shoves it into the off position. Is there a friction adjustment somwhere?

df2, I experienced nearly the same problems you're having when Spiegler initially sent me the wrong bar. The problem was it was too flat. Not enough pull back. They sent me the correct bar with more pullback and it's night & day. The controls all fit and some room to play. I still want dual brake lines and a clutch line maybe 2" longer though. As for the brake fittings, just crack the banjo bolt loose and give a spin. Works a treat and nothing spills. Mind now, just a crack.

While I respect Mr. Maund's work, a 1/2" won't be enough at all. I either need to slam this thing or cut a notch in the middle! Any shocks available with ride height adjustment?

It's true. When you get older you start to shrink. Vertically, not horizontally! So I find myself not as confident on the bike as I should be. Bobbles, wobbles & foot dabs are now part of the riding experience. Yeah, well, I don't give up so I'm looking for suggestions as to different tail sections/seats/modified sub frames, etc. that will get me another 1.5 to 2 inches. It's not a museum piece so I'll cut any damn thing to reach my goal. Ideas? Piccies? Help out an old sailor here!

I was having trouble with a Spiegler bar swap a while back and just had to stop back in to say that Spiegler was outstanding in their problem solving and rectifying. Seems the wrong bar was sent. How would I know? I drilled for the switch pods and tried to set it up. No go. Drilled or not they sent me the correct bar & took the other back, no questions. Just wanted to set previous comments right and props to a damn decent vendor.

Yeah, well...life is full of disappointments. Call your attorney. Actually I'm in the middle of discovering from Spiegler USA why the Fat Bar kit they sell as fitting the V11...doesn't come close. No condemnation! They've been quite cordial up to now. I've supplied pictures and, until they can contact Germany, they've supplied...well, they've been quite nice. Until I hear from them I'm not making jack for myself, comprende? The deal is, there's not enough space on the Fat Bar, from the bar end to the first bend, to fit everything what needs to be fit! I could machine some small extensions for the bar ends but, well then, what did I pay for? And THEY said the stock hoses would fit so that's why they don't include them in the kit. So that's where I am.