motortouring
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Posts posted by motortouring
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Just to share my observation with my LeMans 2 and 3 (different PHF36 carbs) and the California 2 with VHB30. The california has an old paper air filter. When it gets dirty (7000km+) and i ride full throttle in 5th gear, it starfs a bit on not enough air. Closing the throttle a tiny bit gives it just the extra 5 km/h. This phenomenon fits to a to big main jet. For a touring motorcycle it's okay. It protects the engine for overheating.
Especially with the LM3 (850), I reduced the main jet to 125 in order to increase topspeed. It is running a little over 200km/h, which I think is quite alright (almost 8000rpm, redzone). So you could check both a larger or smaller main jet to be sure.
Additional anecdote. This is for Super Single race-machines. The engine is right underneath the tank and heats-up the fuel in the tank. This causes a decreasing density of the fuel and thus a decreasing amount of energy/ liter. A racing motorcycle dealer from Amsterdam used an oil-cooler to cool the petrol. This gave him an advantage in the second stage of the race, when others suffered from heated fuel.
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Did we have this one already?
I have good memories of staying in the Yorkshire Dales, while this beer smoothed our exaggerations and made us heroes in our own adventures.
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I also like the cleaned up tail-section. Did you do this yourself or bought a kit for that? (If yes, which one?)
And sporty pipes as well!
In the Netherlands the fenders have a real function. That is why we would call them mud-guards :-).
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About the slipping clutch.
I have had slipping clutches in two situations.
1. Full power at 140km/h. Reason: oil on one of the clutch plates from a leaking gearbox or crankshaft bearing
2. At low speed in first gear when leaving a parking. Reason excessive wear of the splined clutch "gear". The plates more or less get stuck on the gear.
This last one sounds a bit like your description.
As I recall the drive-train of your racer is based on early eighties Tonti (LeMans3). If you have original clutch, it is the one with the bigger trapezoid splines. These gears typically have the behaviour as I mention undr 2.
Newer models have other gears. https://www.stein-dinse.biz/Moto-Guzzi/Clutch/New-Version/Clutch-Gear-MG-big-Model-long-spline-version-1-pcs::1083.html
You have to change the clutch plates as well as the gear pattern is different.
For side cars that have problems with slipping clutches at take off, we tend to use Surflex clutch discs. The grip is higher, but on a solo bike it is biting to much to get a smooth clutch control.
My 50 cents
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not a spec of oil at Willow Springs.
Do you know (or have a good hunch) what the essential improvement is?
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Could be but still the underpressure is relatieve low.
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In this forum is a pic of the interior of a breather box
http://www.guzziriders.org/lm-breather-box-valve-fix_topic2432_page2.html
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I mounted a Agostini breatherbox at my LM2(950cc) and LM3.
http://hmb-guzzi.de/Oil-separator-Agostini-LM-1-T3-1000-SP-etc
That works fine, even without the valve, although I am not sure if the box has a valve installed after all.
Every now and then I clean the inside of the box with diesel or petrol in order to solve the clotery.
The problem that I could not fix before the Agostini was the pumping of oil after ca 10-15 minutes of constant 5500-6000 rpm (165-180 km/h). I never tried it at a higher speed, because maintaining 200km/h with a more or less standard LM2 or 3 is difficult.
When using the throttle a lot, f ex on a twisty road, I never had a breather problem with the old little breather box, but that also needed serious cleaning to work nicely.
I would estimate the total crankcase at a minimum of 10liters. The delta in the volume will not be more than 600ml, so the pressure will be 6% below the outside pressure. That is higher than the vacuum in the manifold when shutting the throttle. Maybe even higher than with open throttle.
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The core of the thread was keeping oil from escaping the breather. Negative pressure is really just a potential side benefit of changing the breather arrangement to better control oil transport.
Biggest breather tank you can fit in the space ( with an oil seperator if possible ) available with a drain back line and the tank vented via a tube out the back of the bike.
Ciao
+1
Just make sure oil return is below the level of the oil
Yeah, I always hear this, but what is the physics behind it?
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Industrial art, indeed!
It has been widely reported that keeping a spare (talisman) shift spring in the tank bag , or worn around the neck, has effectively warded off broken springs.
A box of Super-Springs in the Tekno ought to extend an element of sanctuary to an entire SpineRaid!
Grease them in to protect against rust, come on, you can do it..,. :-)
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Bingo in the Netherlands. Thanks Scud and Chuck.
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OEM Part
- Name: Headlight Sport Naked (EU-models)
- Moto Guzzi Part Number: GU03740430,
Replacement Part
- Brand or Source: BOSCH Headlight 190MM
- Part number or other identifier: 1 305 504 944
- Differences from OEM (if any): none
- Other Compatible Vehicles:
Referenznummern (nur zum Vergleich)BMW 63 12 1 355 395Other compatible VehiclesHersteller Modell Typ Baujahr PS kW ccm Kraftstoff KBA-NummerOther Comments:
- Website link for source:
If the headlight breaks, you can buy separate parts:
Lens for H4 63121358147
Gasket between lens and reflector 63121356403
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There is this guy, Paul Van Hooff, who took his v700 from Prudhoe bay to Ushuaia and from Amsterdam to Tokyo.
He has some nice shots on YouTube
and he has a website
Guzzigalore.nl
It shows the unbeatability of the looper.
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I never have a problem with paper gaskets, even though I re-use them several years and many valve clearance checks (in the California and LM3).
I usually ordered them per ten (or a dozen if I felt Standard). By now I don't order them anymore and I always find them in drawers all over the place.
If your in the Netherlands and happen to have a leaking rocker cover gasket, call me.
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However, the angle is way out of spec. We asked for 15 degrees, and you can see it is 31.
2018-01-30_10-24-55 by Charles Stottlemyer, on FlickrThat is unacceptable because it will drive the spring past it's "safe travel." My gut feeling is if the manufacturer could wind another 15 degrees on it, they would be ok.
Just the same, I'd like to make another run and make everything *right* including the ID of the spring. I asked for .660/.670" and it is .682. Again, that shouldn't hurt anything.. but it's out of the spec that was calculated. It will apply a (very) little less torque.
Maybe they will give us a break on another run because of one of the most important specs being out of tolerance?
There's a reason for that swing set cartoon..
Hi Chuck, as we say in the Netherlands, "waar gewerkt wordt vallen spaanders". Free translation: those that do the work, are more likely to make mistakes than those that do nothing.
So, I stepped in and will support you guys all the way, even if it is only on a distance and with the cost for the springs etc.
I personally favor the solution according to spec. and am willing to pay for it. However, I also agree with you about the small difference in length, reducing the force only 10% and the wrong angle being the real bugger (more spring tension).
I wonder what the spring bender will say. Time and machine are probably more a thing than the material.
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With docc
Count my PlayMoney in, then . . .It's just play money, Docc, and everyone knows that play money doesn't count.
Seriously, though, if the product doesn't fit the working drawing, the manufacturer *should* square it away, yes?
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It will be difficult to predict the effect of this.I fitted one of the newly manufactured springs to the spare pre-selector. It shifts well. The short arm of the spring is noticeably longer than the original, and contacts the stamped steel part further out, by the shoulder (rather than in the curve). Here's pics of how the spring fits.
One thing, longer arm less force on the bend, since the spring angle stays the same or even reduces a bit.
That could be a pro.
Otherside:
The shoulder will introduce an other direction of the force on the bend. Possible with some friction. That a con.
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I'll admit it. I have crossed the yellow on a right hander a couple of times. Thankfully with nothing coming at me. Still scary. The video reminds me again to remember, and follow my own rules. Right handers are easier for me for some reason, so I think my mistakes are from over confidence. I tell myself "sometimes when testing your limits, you'll find them".
Thats why track days are such a valuable thing, you can push the limits in relative safety. I think if your not doing track days then you're not serious about improving and maintaining your riding skills.
Its not about setting "lap times" but about improving and learning new techniques and practicing the already known ones without the risk, like really heavy braking and looking through the corner and weighing the pegs. Things that you tend to drift away from riding on the road all the time.
Every first session on the track is the re familiarise session of looking through the corner, using footpeg weight esp on the long fast corners, not trying to ride the bike all through the bars and feeling the force of really heavy braking, together with getting your brain ahead of the bikes speed.
Ciao
Funny how a motorcycle track day and car track day are so different.
Motorcycles: keep your head up, look as far ahead as possible. Your bike will go where you look.
Cars: slow to this braking point, gas at this apex, one make mark after another mark, point to point.
Hmmm, LowRyter,
the difference you are mentioning between Motorcycle and Car, is actually the difference between a known track and an unknown (or two way traffic) road.
Apex clipping-points can improve your motorcycle speed on the track. It helps you to realize where your braking, steering and accelerating should be, and how you divide brake friction and sideward friction during the turn.
It is also interesting for the old Guzzi's with Tonti-frame, braking and lowering RPM's makes the rear-end go down, this reduces the handling, the ideal line on the track is different from a Spine-frame Guzzi.
On a normal road you should always see the road ahead, "the vanishing point" is an indication if you cannot see the whole turn.
Interesting VID from the Aussies:
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# 1 there is only one Valentino Rossi ( and it ain't me ) .
# 2 ride on the inside of your lane
# 3 you never know what is past your vision
# 4 as emry suggested . track day course , reading and a lot of offensive/defensive riding . after you finish ask yourself " what did I do right , what did I do wrong" ?
# 5 I don't know what the rider did wrong but he didn't come out too well
# 6 countersteer is only part of a technique in turns
# 7 this rider freaked and did everything he shouldn't . You have to be aware and ready to react.
# 8 the road at the end of my road is a favorite of everyone to ride fast . I don't ride like this because I know Farmer Turnipseed or anyone else can be pulling out of a side road or loose rocks ,seeds, or anything can be in the curves .
# 9 this was one Helluva learning experience for the rider . We all can learn from this
On #2 Start on the outside and use the road to steer to the inside.
If you start at the outside, you can usually look further into the turn.
And don't steer to early, you will have not enough road width to stay on your lane.
The principle "adapt your speed to free road that you can see" is also a good way to go. It helps to focus on the free road instead of other obstacles.
And to frank, my stomach was turning, when I saw the crash.
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Great topic actually.
I have a Aberlour Abunda'h, straight from the Cask 61.1% in the drawer. For me it's too spirited to drink straight. And mixing feels like abuse. Do any of you have a good advise on this.
So, the Laproaig with the tast of an astray and boiled out gear-oil is my favorite for the time. Or just a good old Famous Grouse (I am ready for the comments :-) ), because it brings back great memories.
V11 Engine Hot Rodding advice
in 24/7 V11
Posted
Wat about nicely litering and loosing some weight from the flywheel.
Balancing the crankshaft.
Installing the windage tray.
And I always think high voltage coils make it run better at high refs.
These mods all add to better road usable riding.
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