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motortouring

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Posts posted by motortouring

  1. Over here in the Netherlands (and other EU-countries) a bike can be produced in 2001 and then be for sale for some years. The dealer can register the bike when sold. So if this takes until 2005, that will be the first registration date in the papers of the bike.

    I have a bike that was used as press-demo at the factory (so they say at least). Production was 2001 and registration in 2005, leaving the factory directly to a new owner.

    • Like 2
  2. On 10/31/2022 at 2:53 PM, gstallons said:

    Make sure the fork caps on your bike are identical to the one shown in the pics on the advertised forks.

    Is that the best way to identify the different versions?

  3. On 9/16/2022 at 12:57 AM, Kiwi_Roy said:

    I swear by plain old Vaseline for switch contacts, its what I have been using for at least the last 60 years.

    I also used vaseline. Lately it was not really necessary so no recent experience. I do have a nice anekdote on this however. I had done the righthand switches of my LM2 before going to Mandello a few decades ago. All worked fine and I parked the guzzi outside Il Giardinetto (it was a hotel back in those days) on the side where the ramp to the lake was. 

    Two days later we were about to return home and everything was packed. I pushed the starter and nothing happened.  Kill switch was in RUN, so I pushed again and smoke and a smell of burn came out of the switch. Immediately after a large bunch of ants were evacuating the switch.

    Be carefull with vaseline in your switches when parking in Mandello next to Il Giardinetto. There are vaseline eating ants. 

    • Like 1
    • Haha 4
  4. 10 hours ago, Lucky Phil said:

    For general information to anyone reading this thread in the future this methodology is flawed and it's best to stick with the historically tried and tested oil pressure observations for troubleshooting. This LOP light on after the kill switch timing thing has way too many variables to be a troubleshooting tool. .....[cut]....

    Phil

    @Lucky PhilI didn't mean to have the all covering solution to potential oil pressure problems :-).  The methodology is flawed (and then you put it mildly), but so are a lot of methods. When running a test-center back in the past, the accreditation counsel always joked that at the end every sensor is temperature sensor, suggesting that temperature should always in the equation for correction. An incorrect pressure release valve is difficult to find with cold oil (in the workshop). A short blink of the LOP-light in a corner at low revs and the lack of delay in LOP light gave my workshop immediately the hint to first check the valve. I must say, I had never even heard or thought that the valve could be calibrated. Unfortunately, I had driven it to long at low pressure, so harm was done to the bearings of the crankshaft.

    But I will order a new pressure sensor for the V11 '99. They turn out to be less than 10 Euro :-). 

    • Like 1
  5. 5 hours ago, Lucky Phil said:

    OK, but the question is why would you do that? The time it takes to illuminate is of no empirical value. I don't know of anyone that monitors such things so answers might be hard to come by.

    Phil 

    Well, to me it shows some constant time that I like to relate to the slope of pressure drop when the engine is turned off. I started doing this when I had a pressure problem with a LM3. That light went off the instant the killswitch was off.

    It turned to have a bad adjusted pressure valve and worn crankshaft bearings.  

    I guess a sort of a tick.

    • Like 2
  6. 54 minutes ago, Lucky Phil said:

    Your description doesn't make sense for the 02 v11. You turn the ignition switch OFF and after a 3-6 second delay the LOP light comes ON? It comes on with the ignition switch OFF?

    Here's how it works or is supposed to work. Turn ignition ON, LOP light ON. Start engine, LOP light goes OFF. Mine goes OFF during cranking. Turn ignition OFF,LOP light goes off with engine shutdown along with everything else. Any variation on that and you have an issue.

    Phil 

     

    Phil, this is indeed not well explained. I switch OFF with the RUN/STOP button, because I like to check the delay in the OIL Pressure Light. That is where the delay is coming from.

    • Like 1
  7. I like to share a little observation with you. It might look familiar and I am interested in your experience.

    I used to ride pre-injection Guzzi's like the Cali 2 and LM2 and 3. They have always a very clear oil-pressure-light behavior. Switch-ON(the master-key or ignition-key)--> Oil pressure light is ON. Start engine --> Oil light turns OFF. Engine running --> Oil pressure light OFF. Turn OFF ignition --> 3-6 sec delay and Oil pressure light turns ON.

    With my V11 2002 it is like this. So, it satisfies my expectation.

    With my V11 '99 it is different. The oil pressure light stays of after the engine stalls(Ignition OFF) and the oil pressure light is sometimes ON when Ignition is ON and engine is not running. But not always. It feels to me like the switch has some hysteresis or something or the oil pressure remains above 0,5 bar near the switch. I use 10w60 oil, the viscosity is a little higher, could this have an effect.

    Then we have the V11 LeMans '02 of a friend. I have not seen that light ON for ages, so that will probably be a defect light. We grounded the wire to the oil-pressure sensor and that didn't switch the light ON. Now in the 25 years that I am riding Guzzis, this light has never been the cause (there can always be a first time) .

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