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Lucky Phil

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Lucky Phil last won the day on July 20

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  • My bikes
    v11 sport,GSXR1000 K7,Ducati1198s, Ducati1000ss,DucatiST2.
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    Australia

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Community Answers

  1. Yes docc there's an issue there. The gears should sit flush. Like this. I magnified this image on my computer and they are def flush as I remembered them to be. Ciao
  2. Well riding style and conditions have an effect of course but the cold start cycles are something I think people aren't necessarily aware of. The amount of fuel that gets thrown at the engine getting it up to temp esp in cold weather has a big impact on the range. I got caught out 20 years ago on my Aprilia RSV1000 when it ran dry about 20klm before usual and it was lucky to get 270klm out of a full tank of country riding so was marginal on fuel range as it was. I'd filled it up after the previous ride but then did 4 or 5 cold start cycles with little mileage and it caught me out on the next weekend ride. Always best to fill up at the start of the ride with a warm engine on the edge of the city for maximum range. The difference is very noticeable. Ciao
  3. I think I've mentioned this before but what makes a surprising difference to fuel range is cold start cycles. So you may fill your tank and then do 4 short, say 10 mile round trips to work for instance, look at you trip and think, yep still got 120 miles of fuel.....nope, no where near it. It's a way greater effect than a single 40 mile urban commute. Obviously suburban riding hurts the economy but it's the cold start cycles that have the biggest effect. If you add the start enrichment map and the engine temp trim map figures together the overall fuel metering can be well over double the delivery at running temp fuel mapping. Ciao
  4. Really docc, I'm sure my bike would easily do better than that. say more like 195-200 miles. Ciao
  5. My bike has a new electrosport and I think from memory it puts out around the same voltage amybe a touch more on my multimetre . I've tried to think of a way to calibrate a multimetre as well but haven't figured a reliable voltage source to use a reference. I guess the best way to decide if the battery is charging adequately is to go for a suburban ride for say 30 min with the lights on. Park the bike for an hour and check the battery voltage. 12.85 volts or better means the charging system is fine. Be aware though that the V11 does have parasitic drain of around .070 volts so the battery will drain over a period. Ciao
  6. The intensity varies on mine, not that it means much really. The last thing I'm about to rely on with an Italian motorcycle that's 20 years old is the fuel warning light and the Neutral light. The trip meter is my guide. Then again I've twice rolled into petrol stations coughing on fumes. Which either supports my theory to the perfection of my range calculating or not, depending on your perspective. One thing I never do is let an Italian motorcycle warm up on the side stand with the neutral light illuminated. That's just too tempting for the Italian God of electrics. Ciao
  7. Straight off a charger or immediately post shutdown an Odyssey will read well above 13 volts for a while until the surface charge dissipates but from memory 12.85 is fully charged after that. As a matter of fact 12.5 volts is only around 40% charged for an Odyssey. The figures are on their website. Ciao
  8. Not surprised with 230 kg dry weight and 80 WHP on a 170/180 section rear tyre Ciao
  9. Sorry docc it was something for a member in a PM who's sorting out a running issue. It shows the percentage of fuel trim on a std v11 map with regards to engine temp and the temp step points. Ciao
  10. Wilbers shock remote pre load adjuster. How you can sell a bike with genuine pillion capacity without a simple method of rear preload adjustment is beyond me. Ciao
  11. When I rebuilt the Centy engine Chuck I had the option of the plastic or the brass temp sensor holder, I went with the brass. I can't remember which was the later version but read somewhere recently it was the plastic which wouldn't make sense to me as i would always go with the later updated part when I have a choice. Anyway part of my logic at the time I do remember was the plastic holder seemed to have the sensor bulb suspended in mid air within the holder which didn't seem like a good idea with regards to responsiveness so I went with the brass holder and also applied some high temp grease inside to surround the sensor bulb and transmit heat from the holder to the bulb more directly. Did it work? not sure as I have no comparative data but it runs nicely Ciao
  12. The Cam chain is actually in a power transmission path, the path to transmit force or power if you like from the crank to the load, which in this case is the valve train. That load varies with rpm. The tension on the cam chain is related to the load it's being asked to transmit. More rpm requires more energy to drive the valve train so the load on the cam chain/drive is greater. Also F=ma so Force = mass x acceleration so the valve train and cam drive all have mass. The faster you accelerate that mass the more force is required and the cam drive needs to transmit. So it follows that the more rpm the engine is turning and the rate at which it gets there increases the load or force on the cam chain. At steady state throttle opening and engine load the force on the cam drive is constant. Ciao
  13. Yep, it's a skill getting all those wires on the bolt including the battery tender wire and threaded onto the terminal. Imagine casting aspersions on Italian electrics! Ciao
  14. Or maybe, just maybe, you missed connecting one of the hot side battery wires. Like the one that powers the ECU through fuses F1 and 2. Ciao
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