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Lucky Phil

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Lucky Phil last won the day on July 7

Lucky Phil had the most liked content!

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About Lucky Phil

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    "I live here"

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  • My bikes
    v11 sport,GSXR1000 K7,Ducati1198s, Ducati1000ss,DucatiST2.
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  1. Lucky Phil

    Map Day

    Ha, ok I was imagining it was used from the other direction,Doh. Thats why the knurling is where it is. Sometimes my dumbness amazes even me. Ciao
  2. Ha, yes I've had a few interesting discussions with Boeing "We didn't think of that solution so it can't be right" design engineers a few times. Ciao
  3. Yep, not bad. I've looked at a dozen or more of these charts over the last few months and whats frustrating is they can vary wildly in their application criterion. I was primarily looking at Petrol compatibility and as this chart shows FKM is very good but I've seen charts that says Nitrile is good with petrol which it isn't in my experience. It's acceptable in fuel for a captured joint with no relative movement where the significant swelling can work to improve the seal but if you want a seal that wont swell in fuel you need FKM. An example. The link you sent indicates Nitrile is "poor" for gasoline but if you go to their complete compatibility guide it's rated as a "1" "satisfactory" ! There are so many seal material compositions that it gets complicated and identifying what a seal is actually made from can be next to impossible if it's not labeled. Viton/FKM all the way for me, you can't go wrong in the majority of applications. We actually had a major issue with Leading Edge slat actuators leaking on 737's a few years ago. They changed the seal material and the new material wasn't as good at low temps. On a flight of around 3-4 hrs of cruize@ 42,000' when the actuators had cold soaked they used to leak everywhere to the extent the passengers could see a trail of skydrol coming off the trailing edge of the wing. Shorter flights were ok and once it landed the seals in the actuators had warmed up again and stopped leaking. Even the designers get it wrong sometimes. Ciao
  4. Over torquing and old obsolete technology is the issue. Ciao
  5. You know docc I wouldn't use those ebay ones or any Buna-N or Nitrile o-rings anymore unless I was desperate. The Viton or FKM are the only way to go I think. Buna and Nitrile have an upper temp limit of 100deg C and even the crankcase oil can easily achieve that under the right conditions. Viton and FKM are around 240 dec C from memory and are fuel proof as well. Some of the Guzzi orings that have been superseded have been done so because they have been changed to Viton. Thats why the Nitrile o-ring leak with age because they are operating up to and over their upper temp limit and they harden. Ciao
  6. Lucky Phil

    Map Day

    I dont understand what surface the depth tool rests on with regards to the crankcase surface. It appears to have a tapered shoulder that rests against the edge of the oring opening, is this correct. If so what flat face do you measure against to get the depth? I would have a flat face on the body of the tool that sat flush against the crankcase face that the sensor plate and shims bolts to then after setting the depth measure from that face to the end of the body and and from the depth projection to the end of the body and subtract the difference to get the reading. Ciao
  7. Lucky Phil

    Map Day

    Nice cam sensor tool. I assume the projection slides in and out of the body and is held by a lock screw to get the depth? Although how do you get the depth measurement? Even using a vernier is tricky with the engine on the bench and impossible with it in the frame. Might need to make me one of those in aluminium. I also made an Ohlins fork cap toll about 25 years ago, I'll dig out the image. Here it is. Ciao
  8. Highly unlikely. Personally I'd be doing a simple compression test before I got into a head removal. Ciao
  9. Lucky Phil

    Map Day

    My suggestion is tighten up the valve clearances, .007 and .009 is too much. Even going from .10/.15 to .15/.20 made starting harder. Just a suggestion. I'd actually go back to the factory settings of .1 and .15 just to compare and then if the difference is profound you can either stick with it or go .15/.20 again. When chasing issues it's always best to revert to factory settings and at least get a baseline again. You can always revert if you wnat to. Ciao
  10. Yes I thought as much but asked the question anyway as someone may have come up with a miracle. FWIW your strategy is perfectly reasonable but not practical insitu. There is I believe a better way. Your burner doesn't produce enough high intensity concentrated heat.What you need for maximum effect is a fine tip in an Oxy torch. I'm going to machine up a cylindrical shroud so I dont burn anything around the throttle body and hit it with the fine tip of my Oxy set right on the head of the fastener. But before that I'll test my process on the other set I have coming and see how long I need to apply the heat to get the desired result. I mentioned once before it's best to avoid separating these things but sometimes you don't have a choice. Ciao
  11. Dont know i'd need to measure both to be 100% sure. I'd be happy to buy one and physically compare if I could go to the local auto shop or buy off Amazon as a US local. I just thought after years of oil filter debates someone in the states that can get the best filter available ( most likely) for an outlay of 10-15 bucks might like to check one out and confirm the fit and function and then we could all know for sure if arguably the best filter on the market worked for the Guzzi V11. It's a modest cost outlay for American compared to us over here. Ciao
  12. Thanks for that, I can measure a Hiflo and compare. I was wondering if someone would risk the 10 bucks or so and try one on the next change and confirm fit and function before I waste the multi purchase and shipping from the US Ciao
  13. Lucky Phil

    Map Day

    The factory settings are .1 and .15 and most run .15 and .2 which is within reason. Running .25 on the inlet is +150% of the factory specs. It's all very well talking about CO readings and how well it runs but I'm also concerned about mechanical issues as well and I doubt Meinolf has done a 120,000 miles with these valve settings. It's like tuning a race engine, a lot of the time you need to sacrifice the last few % of performance to aid rideability and reliability. Ciao
  14. Will somebody here buy/test a Purolator PL14476 and see what it's like for fit, function and quality? I'd need to import one and it's only worth it if I order a few. Just like to confirm the fit more than anything else. I know Purolator are probably the best filter around. http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/FilterXRef.html Ciao
  15. Just watched a Youtube comparo between some filters and the Hiflow came out well compared to a K&N a Wix and a Fram for what thats worth. Pretty basic comparo I must admit. Ciao
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