Lucky Phil

The TPS voltage change is not an exponential curve but a straight line. Depending on the model of TPS it is either a dead straight line from zero degrees to 87 or a straight line until a break point at 30 deg then another straight line from there. So either the linier or non linier version. Just change the throttle bushes and seals. Delaying replacing the coated bushes will just end up wearing the throttle shafts and then the TB's are scrap unless you have the kind of access to machinery I have. Use the Viton seals now available via CA cycleworks as they will be better than the yamaha seals I'm sure. Phil

Look like you need a Reg. The reg should never spike to 16 volts. Phil

Reconditioning's out of the equation docc I tried that already and it didn't work. The contact surfaces just become tarnished is what happens to them. I think I did a post on my messing with one. Maybe in my Daytona V11 build. If we cannot find a compatible part cheaper I could buy multiple as a group buy and post them to the US to save on postage and you could be the US supplier to the forum, or something. Phil

I can assist with postage if required docc. AUD as well so about 10 cents USD:) https://motociclo.com.au/product/neutral-switch-moto-guzzi-6-speed-and-small-block/

Try adjustment docc with a thinner crush washer first. The contact is internal and can't be accessed without switch disassembly and you ruin the potted switch assembly dissecting it and trying to JBweld it back together. Phil

It's a hell of a lot more than my bikes done. Phil

What sort of lunatic advises on avoiding engine braking! I mean seriously. Avoid "engine braking" to save your drive splines. How are you supposed to ride the bike? Every time you get off the throttle you pull the clutch in? Docc your bike has done a lot of miles, hows the drive splines look? How many have you needed to replace? This advice is up there with not blipping the throttle for downshifts. Maintenance and lubrication is the issue not engine braking which in fact is a minor load on the splines compared to the loads from accelerating the mass of the bike. As for drilling holes in the cush rubbers, well thats a stick your finger in the air and have a guess backyard hackers solution. It's not hard to measure the shore hardness of rubber and if you need something less hard then you can buy liquid Polyurethane in the hardness you desire make a simple mould and mould what you "think" you need. Phil

It's Merican for "modify" for performance or a variation on what we would term "hot up" Phil

Not sure says replacement for Shindengan. Need Kiwiroy input here. Scroll down the page for details https://silent-hektik.de/MG_R_Duc.htm

Their regulators are probably of more interest and they are having a discount sale. Phil

They have regulators as well. https://silent-hektik.de/ICM_MG_1.htm

Yea Mick, AL YOU MIN UM instead of the correct AL YOU MIN E UM. Butchering the Kings English.....again. Like people using the expression "I couldn't care less" and substituting/abbreviating it to "I could care less" which has the opposite meaning entirely. Annoying. Phil

These images remind me of what I used to get emailed to me as an aircraft troubleshooting engineer. We've got this damage/crack/corrosion/defect and I'm sending images for you to look at. Ok. Often blurry but also often crystal clear but without context. I'd call back and ask them to send images with regards to the contextual location on the wing/fuse/engine wherever. Where something is located EXACTLY with regards to the machine is often half the clue to what it is or what it means. Phil

Fuel pressure regulator stuck closed. I've had the bike sitting for a extended period of time and turned the ignition on and heard the pump prime and labour then a sudden distinctive "pop" as the regulator unsticks itself. You will get away with a rich mixture due to a jammed reg with a cold engine but not when it's warmed up. Phil

No Roy. Click on the 3 dots at the top right of your post and select edit from the list. Phil