Kiwi_Roy

I tried to find a deep 32mm as well. I ended up using a regular 3/4 drive 32mm. I ground a couple of flats on the outside for a 12" crescent wrench. I put a couple of wraps of masking tape around the shaft to protect it from the socket. To stop the engine rotating: As I was replacing the chain I simply jammed a brass drift into the sprocket. Putting it back I put the bike in top gear and applied the rear brake. Heres the Old and new side by side.

The ignition switch comes off in minutes, don't try to remove the lock just undo the two Allen screws underneath. Mark the switch so it goes back the same way, clean and lube with Vaseline, Nothing else The original bullet connectors are a little different than standard but if you squeeze the socket it should be ok, perhaps run a drill bit in the female to clean it out and for sure a little Vaseline to prevent corrosion.

Jack under the sump, carve out a stick of 4 x 2 to fit snug the sump and header pipes.

The grinding noise may have been the magnets breaking loose. Sent from my shoe phone!

There is nothing to adjust on those, send it back to Harpers. You are using the stock wires? Are you sure you have the wires in the right spot? Red/Black to + Black to ground Yellow/Black (might be Yellow/Green) to -

Whatever happened to Ports? I love it when guys ask for help but never get back with how the issue was resolved.

"That's what I'm talking about" Run your eye down the "Current Gauge Attributes" Does any other company offer that flexibility, I don't think so! Chamberlin has done all the hard work on the logo for you. Scud, don't get me wrong, I like yours too, mine are somewhere in between with a cheaper pulse input speedo. The only thing I would do differently is have the reset buttons rear plug in type, the tacho one is only required for initial setup.

How can a 15 year old bike only have 3000 miles on the clock, hell I put that on mine in a couple of months. I would be taking a close look at the clocks on that one, it may be on it's second or third Veglia. Any fading on the tacho needle compared to the speedo needle? The one directly above posted by Chamberlin looks more honest, 30,000 miles BTW the Aluminum label on the Mistrals says "For off road use only" at least it did on mine until Gord the ace mechanic in Chilliwack gave me some new "V11 Sport" labels

www.mgcycle.com I'll send you an e-mail about regulator

I'm sorry, I'm not qualified to make a fashion statement but I've heard real men aren't afraid to wear pink.

Thats weird, here's what mine looks like for reference http://s1304.photobucket.com/user/Kiwi_Roy/slideshow/V11%20Sport%20Ignition%20Switch From the colour I suspect the 2 loose strands were already touching something.

Apparently the latest tachs have playback option. Sent from my shoe phone!

One tab is a little different release it then tilt the white plate, I think I have it right. Sent from my shoe phone!

I stand corrected, normally when you have one gear driving another they rotate in opposite directions but this is a gear and worm you can have it the same way. My days of struggling with those cables are over thank goodness

The VII doesn't have a choke, the mixture is all taken care of by the ECU, it knows or should the engine temperature. All the lever does is jack up the idle speed Update: From your earlier post I'm guessing the TPS and throttle balance needs attention but it should still start. The TPS should read in the 450 -500 mV range at idle and increase smoothly to about 4-1/2 Volts at WOT Ditch the Power Commander if it's installed once you get running ok then you can put it back but I wouldn't. You will be up and running in no time.

I didn't mention before the tach not working could also mean you have no charging or idiot lights, they get their power from a red/black wire after the headlight relay which gets it's. Power from the 5 pin Start Relay. Some of the symptoms you mentioned make me wonder if the relays are perhaps dropping out due to low Voltage after the ignition switch. it is long overdue for cleaning if it hasn't been done. The wires at the back of the switch can also break if they aren't secured there, the switch comes out in a few seconds, just undo the two Phillips screws underneath and pull the switch block off leaving the lock in place. Mark the switch before you pull it apart so it goes back in the same position and wipe out the old grease, replace with fresh petroleum jelly aka Vaseline (Never ever use di-electric grease) You don't have to be an Electrician to own a Guzzi but it helps!

When mine broke I contemplated removing the angle drive then I realized the angle drive changes direction so it's a pair or none. Sent from my shoe phone!

The pump should prime EVERY time you cycle the key or kill switch when power gets thru the ECU relay it always picks up the ECU Power relay If the pump fails to prime you are just wasting power cranking (see light below) From the front the relays are Start, Headlight, Side/stand, ECU, ECU Power relay. The important ones for running are the last two The first one (Start relay) must be a 5 pin type. Wire a small 12 Volt lamp to the petcock fuse (usually F8) Just jamb it in the holder with the fuse and ground the other wire to a bolt or battery negative. This one small lamp will tell you more about the electrics than you ever wanted to know. From your profile you've had a few bikes, a Guzzi is "different"

The Tach dropping to zero could be the headlight relay dropping out, if it happens again reach forward and put your hand in front of the headlight The hard start Does the fuel pump prime when you turn the key On, if not I would suspect the side-stand switch or the ignition switch Try flicking the switch a couple of times To check if it's the side-stand take out the No 3 relay and wind a strand of bare wire around the two fat pins. This bypasses the side stand (I would be surprised if a 2000 still has a side-stand switch working) Have you replaced the relays at all, most guys replace them all with 5 pin type. The bike will run very rough if there is a high resistance in the safety circuit because the ECU relay drops out rebooting each time. Some TLC items. Clean and grease the battery terminals with Vaseline Check the main Ground connection, it should be on a gearbox bolt Ad an extra ground to the regulator A schematic complements of Carl Allison http://www.thisoldtractor.com/guzzi007/schematics/1999_V11_sport.gif BTW, welcome to the forum, there's only one rule here, we need PICTURES

Does it really matter if the Voltmeter stays where it was, that's an un-advertised feature, "Voltage Memory" Next time you ride the bike you would know how much it lost while you were away

Yes I think the Neutral light supply could be used to power up everything as I said with a small in line fuse fuse so there's no chance of loosing the supply to the headlight relay, stand relay and ECU relay if you get a short in the dash. This is based on my 01 VII Sport manual - Other VII wiring might be a little different - Unplug the headlight relay and look for a wire that's alive with the ignition switch On As I mentioned anything on the headlight relay goes down with cranking. With a Voltmeter you need to be a bit more careful as you don't want to monitor a point with significant Voltage drop so measure it first.

So far Chamberlins is by far the best installation, stunning IMHO

The housing on my gauges was a bit ratty where the PO had slammed into a car so I had no problem chopping 3/4" out of it, I used a single bolt in the center as it takes all the hassle out of lining the bolts up. I just used a scrap of extrusion I had laying around. I like your strap solution but the cover won't fit, at least mine wouldn't. Don't power the gauges (lights ok) from the Red/Black idiot light circuit because it goes dead every time you press the Start button, this is a bit annoying. Looking at my manual it shows the Neutral light is fed by an AR-BLU wire (BI at the light) which comes straight from the ignition switch that would be a good source of power if the key is on it will be On. Perhaps add a common in line 5A fuse in case you get a short in the dash. The lights for the gauges could remain on the Red/Black Idiot light feed although I would try them on the neutral light feed first I don't think any of the spine frame bikes put a lot of load on the ignition switch so it's probably ok to measure the Voltage at the same AR-BLU wire. If you find it's not the best another good spot is after the ECU relay 87 contact. it is lightly loaded and close to the battery the problem is you would need a new wire. If you decide to do that send me a PM One minor annoyance with the Speedhut Tach, if you turn the key Off it stays in place because it has no power to motor back to zero. This doesn't happen if you use the kill switch otherwise just turn the key back on momentarily. The little inverter puts out a high voltage so be careful to keep the wires dry Did you get one inverter per gauge, I only found one for my pair but I may have tossed the other with the packing.

I think you may have to remove the timing cover. If it's not leaking too bad I wouldn't worry. Over full perhaps. Sent from my shoe phone!

A spreadsheet of the bearing sizes for each model would be handy.