Kiwi_Roy

Plus one on the Yuasa, a basic AGM these bikes have enough trouble with electrickery without adding to it IMHO Sent from my shoe phone! fixed by descktop

Haha I left myself wide open there Sent from my shoe phone!

I haven't heard of the bracket failing, could you add a picture. Sounds like another good reason for adding a ground strap (safety wire) Both the plugs and sockets will need replacing. you might consider using heavy duty spade connectors, ring terminals with a nut and bolt or just plain old crimp links. Spare us the wire nuts

Re the fuse block screws, I tried to take mine out one day, I wasn't having any success so I got mad and wrenched on the fuse block, that's when I found it just plugs into a couple of rubber grommets LOL Sent from my shoe phone!

Those LED equipped fuses are a great idea especially since we never carry a multimeter If the fuse ever blows, don't toss it out, add a couple of wires and you have a handy dandy test light you can carry on the bike.

That is also the classic symptom of Lead Oxide on the terminals, its a hard insulating layer that creeps in under the lugs making the contact area smaller and smaller until it finally fuses leaving the battery completely disconnected even though the terminals are tight. If you scrape the posts apply a little Petroleum Jelly aka Vaseline then connect the lugs the Vaseline prevents the Oxygen from getting at the lead so it doesn't oxidize. You don't need to apply Vaseline every time, it stays on the terminals for several disconnections. You are right, the Start fuse will cause the same symptoms BTW the bike puts 40+ Amps through the 15 Amp fuse for a split second, if the main cable to the starter is not connected (loose or Oxidized) the 40+ Amps continues until the fuse blows in about 1 second. Next time you apply Vaseline to a baby's bum to prevent nappy rash remember, "If it's good enough for a baby bum, it's good enough for my Guzzi", Kiwi Roy said that

This might help Guzzy_Wiring May 16 2010.pdf 65.24KB So you see every one of the fuses has 12 Volts on, it's not always at the same end though Note how there are several wires from the battery to the fuse block. If you don't find 12 Volts at any of the fuses and not at the battery Positive I would suspect a bad ground.

Start with the simple stuff. You did scrape the terminals and apply some Vaseline? This is the first thing to do when installing a battery. Connect the Positive terminal first then Negative (this main ground wire should connect to the rear of the gearbox, not to the frame) There should be about 3 wires on each battery post, sometimes one falls down out of sight, e.g. the one going to the fuse block. Some batteries have an insert in the terminal post, if it does remove that and scrape around inside, apply Vaseline there. We will assume the battery checks ok at this point. Connect the Negative probe of Voltmeter to chassis or an engine bolt, under a screw if you can, Not to the battery. Touch the positive probe to battery + it should read 12 Volts If not, Turn key On Touch the Positive lead to battery - it should not read anything or go Negative. If it does you have a bad ground connection.

I went the Then design your own gauges with Speedhut, any colour, any font, any logo etc, etc. The last time I checked just over $300 for the pair. A link to my thread http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=18588&hl=

The front crossover looks ugly, the bike will look nicer without it, you also have the one under the gearbox right?

It's not the first time that happened, I believe that ground wire only goes a few inches in the loom. As thumper says unwrap the loom as far as the wire goes because it probably shorted one or two others to ground/chassis also. I think you will be able to follow that wire with the loom in-situ. You mention other wires burnt in the lighting area. Ground wires can let out the magic smoke if the main battery ground works loose, when you go to start the bike the current seeks an a path back to the battery through any small ground wire such as this regulator ground shows. I just noticed the fat black ground wire to the left doesn't look to be going to the gearbox where it should go. Not to behind the seat release as mine was but to a decent size bolt. I'm sure you now have a healthy respect for your innocent looking 12 Volt battery I sent you a PM

The stator will slip off without removing the rotor but wouldn't the EME have a new rotor? I have had the rotors off, I don't have anything special from memory there's a thread inside the rotor which you use to jack the rotor off with. When you build up some pressure smack the bolt on the end with a hammer and it will fly off. Personally I think the OEM alternator has more than enough output, the regulator and flakey wiring is the weak link. Here's the tool MG Cycle sell to take a Bosch wound rotor off, Harpers sell just a length of rod. others say part of an allen key http://www.mgcycle.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=80&products_id=1632 I'm pretty sure the permanent magnet rotors are similar. Leave it for a bit and someone will chime in with the correct procedure.

Lately I have been suggesting picking up the Voltage reference from the ECU relay R4 It's already doing what the EME guy suggested. The regulator only draws 15 milliamps so it should have no effect on the ECU. The ECU draws very little current so the Voltage after relay 4 should be identical to the battery. I no longer have a Ducati Energia or that's what I would do. The battery Voltage may end up a tad lower but that's easily fixed with a resistor or diode to reproduce the ~ 1/2 Volt the regulator is used to.

The main thing is to have it so the loom flexes over several inches when you move the bars, not in one spot.

Plus 1, I was talked into putting a wider tire on mine, when I wore it out I went back to standard size, what a difference.

Don't be too hasty blaming the regulator, in posts 10 & 15 you said the lights weren't working, they are independent of the regulator. The lights should work when the key is on but you haven't started the bike yet (no charging) or even with the regulator removed from the bike. The regulator relies on the headlight circuit to provide it with the 12 Volts it needs to operate, this is on the regulators black wire which plugs into the red/black wire downstream of the headlight relay. This same circuit also feeds the idiot lights.

Hey Czakky, I agree with you I wouldn't ride it either, not without a gauge to verify it has some pressure. The last switch I bought lasted less than a month before it went off permanently. I spec out instrumentation as part of my job, the operating parts of these switches is too small for the low pressures involved IMHO If you look at the equivalent switch in a car the working parts are probably 10 x the size.

There is one other sensor, the air temperature. This was in the original air box. It may be tucked up under the tank somewhere which is too hot, it normally operates in the cool intake air. I moved mine up to the headstock when I put pods on. Perhaps it's compensating for no oil temperature (isn't it really to measure engine temperature?) The pressure switches are notoriously unreliable so it's possibly going off early. I have a pressure gauge on mine mounted to the steering damper bracket, it's a great re-assurance. Connecting the sensor would have no effect on oil pressure. Unless the bike has a Roper plate keep the level near the high mark, the pressure on mine will drop to zero on acceleration if I let it get low.

The battery light is pretty useless really, it wont work as Docc says if the fuse is blown or the light fuse is gone. The regulator gets its power from the headlight, it won't charge if the headlight fuse is gone or you have a 4 pin relay in the Start Relay position. Short the white regulator wire to chassis to test the Battery Light, same with Oil pressure switch and neutral switch to check those lamps. The Fuel light will only come on if the fuel is low and it takes a few seconds. The battery light circuit is separate from the charging circuit of the regulator so don't assume it's scrap because the light isn't going. Invest in a Voltmeter if you really want to know the battery state.

Here is a replacement for the thermistor in the V11 Fuel tank, Panasonic part No is ERTLG12N7 http://industrial.panasonic.com/lecs/www-data/pdf/AUD0000/AUD0000CE2.pdf I tried contacting Panasonic without success but found them on a Chinese site N Gate for $15, I ordered a pair, they took about 2 months to arrive, I think they were shipped by boat. It's not a direct replacement you will have to adapt the holder somewhat but for $15 instead of $150+ Its a direct replacement for the one in my friends old Triumph Tiger.

The Panasonic part No is ERTLG12N7 This was listed on a Chinese site N Gate for $15, I ordered a pair but they never arrived so I suspect they are a bit dodgy. Update: After about 3 months waiting I was surprised to receive a pair of the Panasonic parts in the mail from N-gate They are not a direct replacement you would need to modify the holder.

The bike is dying because the battery is not charging The battery is not charging because the headlight is not going Too much resistance in the headlight circuit will lead to Over Voltage Do you have a 5 pin relay in slot No 1 (Start relay) it needs to be there.

The tail light and the park light are fed from a separate contact on the ignition switch. Take a look at Walterg's "Help with Ignition Switch Repair thread" in case it's a broken wire there. After the switch the feed goes to fuse 6 & 7 I believe, check for 12 Volts there. If you have less than 12 Volts. It could be just a dirty ignition switch, try flicking it a few times, yours is due to be cleaned if you haven't yet. 2 small Phillips screws behind the block let it drop off and it unplugs under the tank. Checking for Voltage at the tail light make sure you have a good connection to the main chassis, check for voltage on the light ground wire it will show Voltage if the wires broken or disconnected.

I don't have a bracket on mine, it just seems to naturally twist in the middle. Don't tie it to anything where it wraps around the head frame. If you can just secure it where it comes out of the back of switch it will be good.

The wires work harden with flexing and snap off where they are soldered. Try to fix them moving the flex point away from the joint. Perhaps glue them to the back cover with some silicone sealant. The loom should flex gently over several inches, no sharp kinks. Here's a little slide show of mine. http://s1304.photobucket.com/user/Kiwi_Roy/slideshow/V11%20Sport%20Ignition%20Switch The Blue/Black wire to green jumper you see is the common Hot Lubricate the contacts with Vaseline, re-visit in about 5 years.