Kiwi_Roy

The relay bases do build up resistance just sitting, I like to use Vaseline on the relay pins, I think this wards off corrosion. Another problem is the little connectors spread with constant relay shuffling, I doubt many relays fail but if you swap them out it gives the contact a scrape to get a better contact for a while. Here's how you can remove the connectors and tighten them. The relays are a common style made by many manufacturers I get mine from www.digikey.com part No Z2247-ND, these are an Omron part No G8HN-1C2TR DC12 http://www.digikey.com/product-search/en?x=19&y=17&lang=en&site=us&KeyWords=z2247-nd

Yes - are those what I show as ->>- 1,2 & 3 - on the diagram? It's worth tightening those for sure,

The clutch switch and timing sensor won't stop the pump priming Check the Safety Circuit Pull the sidestand relay and check for Voltage at the top pin (30), if you don't see 12V on 30 it's probably the Ignition Switch, sometimes it's just the grease gone hard with age or I have known the wires to snap off where they are soldered to the switch, it comes off with a couple of screws from underneath. Then assuming you still have the sidestand switch check the next contact down, the Voltage should come and go as you work the stand. Then put the relay back and pull relay 4, you should get Voltage on one of the small coil pins which will come and go as you work the Kill switch. Of course it goes without saying you must have 12V on the top pin of relay 4 and 5.

I noticed that too, any time you are less than about 2000 revs it's probably loosing ground so the lights telling the truth, 13.3 Volts is less than fully charged. The alternator puts out a high frequency, (7 x rpm/60) or 466 Hz at 4000 revs, at around 13 Volts the lights switching on and off so rapidly it appears to just glow. I asked Electrosport if they would share the schematic with me but they declined, I was curious to see how it differs from the Ducati The new regulator doesn't have a ground as such but the battery negative is the same thing. One side of the bikes charge light is positive and the white wire pulls the other side to ground (battery negative).

I really like the gauges from I bought Speedhut ~$300 for the pair, no more flakey cables for me. http://www.speedhut.com/gauges/Tachometers-3-3-8-inch-Gauges-Only/1:2%7C37:3%7C39:1 Try selecting a gauge then customizing it with needle type, colours and graphics, you will see what I mean. My only regret, I didn't take the time to upload the Guzzi Eagle Roy

There is no reason for the relays to get hot, they only dissipate about 1.2 Watts in the coil and they are rated for 50-60 Amps however if the relay base is loose the current will quickly heat the start relay up. For example if you were loosing 6 Volts across bad contacts the starter solenoid current would be much less say 25 Amps, 25 x 6 = 150 Watts so you can see there is some serious heat there. As a backup until you get the bike sorted I would get familiar with hot wiring the starter all it takes is a wire from the small spade trigger terminal to touch on the battery terminal or the large post on the starter and it will crank over (the bike must be in Neutral or with the clutch in so you don't rocket off). At the very least this will check out the starter.

I know you have MYECU. Have you adjusted the timing at all? Ken No - I wouldn't know where to start, I have had enough trouble getting the mixture right, for a while I had a pot and battery wired up so I could adjust it while riding, The AFR shows the ratio but then you have to figure out the throttle position and which cell it belongs to, I should have gone for the optimizer obviously but I didn't have an AFR when I bought the kit.

I have an AFR on my bike, even well over 15 it doesn't ping on good gas, I try to use premium without ethanol. I noticed my tach doing weird things when I turned the key on but not started, it would climb upscale then drop back to zero. It turns out it was caused by the AFR, I suspect it draws a pretty hefty current as it heats up from cold and the tach must be interpreting the current pulses as spark. I need to find a separate source of 12V PM sent

I think it's on Fathers day, at least it was last year Yes it is June 16th http://www.maseratinet.com/EVENTS/MCIclub_events.aspx

Cheap gas will make my V11 ping, get the best you can buy.

I replaced my battery with a Yuasa, it quit after a couple of months with very weird symptoms, the supplier replaced it with the same Yuasa and it's been fine for over 2 years. For some reason I just don't trust lithium technology, it needs a different charging method whereas lead acid batteries have been around since Adam was a cowboy their quirks are well known. I would certainly buy another Yuasa, their warranty covers any teething problems you may have.

You may have cured the problem by adding the ground. Yes, the white wire is for the light, one side of the lamp is supplied with 12 Volts from the headlight relay, the white wire pulls it to chassis with a transistor. Roy

I read somewhere instead of struggling with the bezel to take a hacksaw and cut the case about half way up, then simply tape it back together. Slightly off topic, I noticed my after market tach was wandering up scale when I turned the key on before starting, turns out it was the sidestand switch sizzling away, creating false pulses, shorting the 30/87 contacts of relay 3 cured that

Your #8 will do the trick for sure, it's all about voltage drop, a 6" 14 gauge to a timing cover bolt works also because the engine is a very good conductor, better than any wire and the main ground is plenty fat enough. The factory installed a tiny wire all the way to the battery, I'm guessing 20 gauge which is next to useless because of it's length. When installed the case to horn bracket provided a good path, but aluminium to steel in a wet environment is inviting corrosion so it falls back to the factory wire resulting in a low battery. The regulator is set to put out 13.8 Volts between the black wire and it's case, whatever you loose between the case and the negative terminal is lost. The flakey reference to the black wire is another story. It would be interesting to see a schematic of the Electrosport regulator, I asked for one but they are not about to share it with me.

This seems to be a direct replacement for the Ducati Energia, it doesn't show a ground wire so be sure to provide a good connection to the chassis.

I agree with you there, that's not enough to worry about. Which regulator do you have? So far we have Sculler2x with Electrosport ESR-515 0.7 mA my Electrosport ESR-510 at 3 mA - direct connected with a charge light Trevini's Electrex RR51 at 40.8 Just for fun I measured a brand new Ducati Energia, it draws ~21 mA at 13 Volts, but that's only while the key's On (headlight relay closed) Anyone with a modern Guzzi with the direct connected regulator care to measure yours?

Yes, just extend the meter leads with some soft wire or use the standard pin that comes with a DB9 computer plug, they are the correct size.

This shows how you can check the sensors With the key off, unplug the two relays and the ECU. Measure the resistance of each sensor by connecting an Ohm-meter to the holes in the ECU plug. See note 5 and note 6, the sensors should read 1000 to 5000 Ohms depending on the temperature, refer to the table on the right. http://i1304.photobucket.com/albums/s526/Kiwi_Roy/1987_007_zps2e9af2fe.jpg

For the idle speed to rise that high I think you would need to get much more air into the cylinders, like a big leak. Loose throttle linkage? What do others think?

I am having a little trouble understanding. Are you saying the engine increases to about 3000 RPM then stops? Do you think it might be loosing the spark?

The Chinese make a lot of rubbish but they also make some very good stuff, tools etc. their brake discs could well be in either camp, I can't see any harm in trying them, they are not likely to fly apart on you. Roy

I chose a couple of gauges from Speedhut, they let you configure them to your own liking, If I were to do it again I would get the eagle logo added I made a sensor from a magnet and reed switch http://s1304.photobucket.com/user/Kiwi_Roy/slideshow/Guzzi%20Dash I encourage you to try building a gauge, here's a starting point http://www.speedhut.com/gauges/Speedometers-3-3-8-inch-Standard-Gauges-Only/39:1|37:3|38:1|1:4 http://www.speedhut.com/gauges/Tachometers-3-3-8-inch-Gauges-Only/1:2|37:3|39:1 Note; They make GPS and Canbus speedos as well as pulse input ones, be careful not to choose Canbus

The relays as installed in V11 are rated at 60 Amps, they are a standard format used in lot's of autos, I saw a Jeep with them fitted the other day. Just connect it with regular spade connectors, get the small ones for the coil at an auto parts store. Make a little clip to hold it by the case. I suspect the RR51 has super-ceded the RR451 because of the problems with getting a stable reference. Perhaps these new regulators with thei constant drain account for the popularity of battery tenders I never bothered with my old Ducati Energia but then it didn't drain the battery like these new fangled ones Moto Guzzi, making electricians out of riders for over 90 years

You said it is an RR451, here is the fitting instructions for that model http://www.electrexworld.co.uk/acatalog/RR451.pdf It shows the skinny brown Voltage sense wire as being switched by the ignition switch. I would be surprised to find it leaking, the brown wire is where the mA leak should go, it senses the battery Voltage. The problem with the way they show it, if there is any Voltage lost in the wiring or ignition switch the regulator interprets that as low Voltage, it cranks up it's output to correct, overcharges the battery and or cooks itself, similar to what happened to the Ducati Energias In this case I would have the brown wire connected to battery + through the relay, perhaps a small fuse so it's not effected by stray Voltage losses. If your regulator has less wires, 2 yellows, a Red and a Black the relay contacts would go in the red as directly as possible. You might also consider just having a master switch in the battery lead to disconnect it when not in use, (not in the main fat wire to the starter though) I may have miss-interpreted how the Electrex regulator works, Voltage sense in my book is the wire that measures the Voltage

Trevini, The new regulator my California II senses the Voltage after the ignition switch, the battery usually charges right up but occasionally it barely has enough to crank, I put this down to a dirty switch contact which ends up effecting the battery Voltage. I intend to add a relay just as you suggest, a gold plated relay contact direct from the battery should be better than all the wiring and ignition switch contact.