Kiwi_Roy

Sorry, that's a classic sign of a high resistance joint, somethings loose there, perhaps the wires aren't crimped properly. You will need to change the connectors or your Ducati will go the same way. The 30 Amp fuses sometimes melt (not blow) for the same reason, a loose clip. Bullet connectors aren't the best method of joining two wires, that's why you don't see them so much anymore, the spade type seem to stand up better.

Loose Connection. You will need to cut the wires back and use new bullet connectors. No wonder you were down on Voltage.

I used the 3-3/8 from Speedhut, although I made a new dash I made the holes the same size as original. The Veglia's must be less than 3-3/8 because they fit into rubber grommet. I wanted to make use of the old speedo drive spot on the gearbox so I just filed a square section on a screw, to the head I glued a magnet. The reed switch container is thin aluminium wrapped around a bolt then fixed to the nut off an old cable. http://s1304.photobucket.com/user/Kiwi_Roy/slideshow/Guzzi%20Dash

My old Uncle who was a plumber taught me how to start a large thread like that. you turn it slowly backwards until you feel it click off the end of the thread, then turn it forward. I think you will find most owners prefer to drop the sump, that way you can give it a good clean out and add a hose clamp to prevent the filter working loose.

I do if you read further, I only close them to get the reference point.

This is how I have adapted the procedure (I have a V11 Sport with TPS on right and a V11 EV with TPS on the left) I disconnect the linkage and back off the throttle stops and fast idle cam Now using a strip of paper as a feeler I wind in both Left and right stops until I feel the screws just griping the paper Set the TPS at 150 mV (Setting the TPS at 150 mV ensures it's not jammed up against its end stop +/- even 50 mV has very little effect on the Air /Fuel ratio) Wind in the RH throttle stop to around 500 mV and the LH screw by the same amount (there's nothing magic about 500 mV, it's just a starting point) Open the air bleeds about 1/2 turn Start the bike and balance the throttles with a manometer using the air bleed screws or if it's too far out a little on either throttle stop also aiming for the idle speed where I want it, I like mine as low as possible ~ 900 So now the bike is idling nicely with the throttles in balance. Stop the bike and reconnect the throttle linkage making sure it doesn't open either throttle. Now with the bike running the balance should still be correct at idle. Rev the bike up and make sure it balances at about 3000, adjusting the knob in the V11 Sport case or the screw on the V11 EV Re-check the idle balance, usually just a tweak on one of the air bleeds is enough. The throttle bodies on my V11 Sport are quite worn with age and I find just using the LH idle screw results in a different idle speed each time I blip the throttle. I use both so the RH body always has a positive stop and the idle is consistent.

The small arc seems to have done something. Would you by any chance while doing up the positive terminal flashed your wrench onto the ECU. You must always disconnect the Negative terminal first and reconnect it last, that way you cannot short the battery. I helped another owner who had flashed to the ECU, this had overheated the ground wire which melted and shorted a few other wires inside the loom to ground, luckily the wire doesn't go too far and he was able to repair the damage with tape.

From front Start Relay, Headlight Relay, Sidestand Relay, ECU Relay, Power Relay (fuel pump, coils & injectors) at least that's the way on my bike Pull the headlight relay it will go out but the bike will still start Pull the start relay and headlight will go out but won't start I suggest you get a strip of aluminium and drill 5 holes to tie all the relays together.

It's not correct to call a relay NO or NC, but you can say the contact is NO or NC, you sometimes see it called form "C" Yes, energized when the coil is powered up then the NO contact closes and the NC contact opens http://www.ni.com/white-paper/4782/en/ They don't show the coil, the same terminology is also applied to switches. The Mouser datasheet says 20/10, just the same as the Digikey one. so they are miss-leading you. On page 2 under Contact Data, I quote "Inrush 60 A (NO), 30 A (NC), steady 20 A (NO), 10 A (NC)" It's the steady state that you are interested in. The start relay has a spike of about 50 Amps and the headlight relay would spike also until the filament heats up Nothing on the bike would pull over 10 Amps

The contacts are referred to as Normally Open or Normally Closed with no power on the coil http://www.thisoldtractor.com/guzzi007/schematics/1999_V11_sport.gif If you look at the schematic the start relay uses both contacts, the N/C contact feeds the headlight relay, the N/O contact feeds the starter solenoid. The headlight relay uses the N/O contact, I think you are confused because the headlight relay is normally energized and the N/O contact is closed. Don't feel bad, us sparkies get it wrong all the time.

I couldn't find the right part No before, here it is for sure http://www.digikey.com/product-search/en?x=-987&y=-73&lang=en&site=us&KeyWords=z2247-ND The dual rating 20/35 means 20 Amps for normally closed / 35 Amps for Normally open, I suspect this is because the contact pressure is higher with the coil pulling the N/O contact closed. The ones I bought are 20/10 but they have a 60 Amp inrush which is more than enough for the high starter solenoid current Yes, I'm using the G8HN-1C2T-R-DC12, I wish they were smart enough to put an LED in them so you could tell when they are on, I put LEDs in the relay bases of my V11 Sport wired from the 87 contact to chassis, it was the best improvement I ever made. http://s1304.photobucket.com/user/Kiwi_Roy/slideshow/Relay%20LEDs For it to come on the coil has to be energized and the 87 contact closed. You can see in the last two shots the little tool I made to release the contacts from the base. BTW, if you are going to order from Digikey I suggest you get a couple of CH-290-ND, these are not the exact match but they will replace the microswitch in your clutch/brake lever http://www.digikey.com/product-search/en?vendor=0&keywords=CH290-ND If you need to fix your relay bases here's how to get them apart. http://i1304.photobucket.com/albums/s526/Kiwi_Roy/RelayBaseRepair_zps8809f6c1.jpg Before installing the relays I wipe the base with a little Vaseline to help avoid corrosion.

Funny this topic should come up, I just purchased 10 Omron relays from Digikey.com I like to start with a new set for a new bike, 5 for my bro in Auckland http://www.digikey.com/product-search/en?x=-987&y=-73&lang=en&site=us&KeyWords=z2247-ND The last time I bought relays the Omrons were made in USA This batch was made in Italy of all places I have never had a relay fail, but I'm sure they do, I use the old relays for projects like headlight relays etc. Really you should never be stuck on the road for lack of a relay. The headlight relay is not necessary, the Interlock relay can be jumped out and the start relay can also be jumped across. The only two I wouldn't mess with are the two associated with the ECU. I helped a young guy with a Jeep recently, it had similar relays.

I did a schematic a while back and somewhere have a bunch of pictures. As an apprentice we overhauled lots of starters and generators for our workmates, mainly old Brit cars. It was quite a surprise to open a Valeo and find a shunt motor with gearbox, the Bosch is a series and more conventional. I help a lot of guys on a different forum with Startus Interuptus issues caused by too much resistance in the solenoid wiring, It would like to draw 50 Amps through the start relay. Nudemetalz wrote "It's like a big radial off a Corsair or B-17 starting" This is because the Valeo is a fairly constant speed (shunt-like) motor, as it speeds up the field causes it to generate a Voltage opposing the battery so it reaches a maximum speed, it also has a reduction gearbox to get enough torque. The Bosch (series motor) speeds up, the current thru the field drops, it doesn't generate so much and gets even faster. In theory a series motor unloaded will wind up until it flys to bits. In earlier days railway locomotives used series motors because of the high torque and speed characteristics. Valeo Starter.pdf Bosch Starter.pdf

Yes, the white wire does ground the lamp through an electronic switch, you disconnected the white wire and the light went out so it's the regulator that's holding it to ground to warn you it's not charging properly. Check all the connections between the alternator and battery, look for signs of excessive heat Remove the cover off the alternator and check where the wires solder to the coils, they get brittle and break eventually. Since it came on all of a sudden it could well be a bad ground or loose connection to the battery, remove the terminals, scrape the posts and add some Vaseline. Do you have a different battery you could try or another bike to try this one in? Perhaps the ESR510 has gone tits up. Depending on how long you've had it Electrosport might give you a break on a new one. Update You could try measuring the Voltage at the end of the regulators red and green wires, I'm just wondering if you have some resistance between there and the battery. It might prove interesting to put the battery on a charger to see if the Voltage goes higher, just in case there's something wrong there. I was so paranoid about getting a direct connection to the battery I mounted the regulator under the tank and extended the yellow wires. You can afford to loose several Volts on the upstream side but any on the downstream side will result in a lower battery. The regulator senses the Voltage internally between the red and green wires, I suspect that's why they dropped the fuse, to get a better connection.

I have noticed the charge lamp works differently on these, it needs more revs to go out. Is it possible the white wire has become grounded between the lamp and the regulator? Try disconnecting it at the regulator and the lamp should go out. I tried to get Electrosport to share the schematic of the regulator but they are very cagey (I can't fault them for that) they told me it's somewhere between a series and shunt regulator. The Ducati works by breaking the circuit, most bikes short out the alternator. I'm not sure that the diode check works with their regulator, I don't have a good feel for the insides. Is it possible your Voltmeter is reading something other than the battery Voltage e.g. downstream of the ignition switch or a relay, I would check it at the battery terminals with a multimeter. http://www.electrosport.com/ducati-single-phase-regulatorrectifier.html Some of their documentation leaves a little to be desired, it shows a fuse but doesn't come with one and the wires are too short to reach the battery Have you asked Electosport if they will test it for you, I imagine they would be anxious to help out. http://www.electrosport.com/contact/

I suggest you write out a specification and fire it off to speedhut, they let you customize the gauges in other ways. Using the filters is a bit tricky, you can back into a corner in just a few clicks of the mouse. http://www.speedhut.com/gauges/Gauges-Only/39:1 http://www.speedhut.com/gauges/ Perhaps a dual gauge without any lights supplemented by some nice LEDs. I glued the LEDs flush directly into the panel. In hindsight I would have added the falcon graphic, all they need is a digital image.

This idea went down like a lead balloon over on the other site I post Let see if it floats here The light will flicker or dim if you have a bouncing sidestand or bad switch contact. I prefer to use a 12 Volt LED for this, they are easy to see in bright sunlight if pointing in the general direction of your eye This is not intended as a permanent installation just string the wire across the tank to the fusebox. If you don't have an electric petcock wrap the wire around the relay pin. I haven't shown any detail of the ECU circuit because that wiring is very reliable.

The reason I say HL is so it passes most of the Voltage on to the flasher circuit, you could try using a smaller lamp if you take the indicator bulbs out. Just borrow the lamp out of your headlight and use a couple of jumper wires.

Possibly a wire chafed through where it enters a light or passes through a fender, does it always fuse on one side? Does it fuse while they are operating or do you find they don't work when you go to use them? Lastly which bike are you referring to? It's pretty hard to find an intermittent fault sometimes especially when it's short blowing fuses. This is an old electricians trick Replace the fuse with a high Wattage lamp (headlight bulb). The lamp when cold will supply enough current to work the flashers. As you wiggle the wires around and create a short it will light up and you will quickly zero in on the fault with no risk of letting out the magic smoke.

Speedhut is what I used, they allow you to configure the gauge to your fancy, needles, colours, font, graphic etc. They set the odo to match my failed Veglia I built my own sensor that fits in the gearbox. http://i1304.photobucket.com/albums/s526/Kiwi_Roy/Guzzi%20Dash/CIMG5019_zpsf8294390.jpg They have combination gauges as well The works are stepper motor, microprocessor or GPS based

I have tried several times to grease the front joint in-situ however I end up dropping the shaft and rear forks right out, it's not a big job. You need to be careful when re-installing the pinch bolts, if the holes aren't lined up with the shaft indent the shaft will chew up the bolt threads. I like the idea of cutting another window, I will try that next time. Roy

I find with my V11 Sport at 80+k the idle inconsistency is caused by slop in the linkages, the RH throttle doesn't come back to the same spot twice therefore as part of the procedure I adjust both idle stops so the screws are touching equally then trim the balance with the air bleeds. This works better for me at any rate.

I don't see how an ECU setting will make it idle fast, it could make it idle rich or lean but in my understanding the idle speed is determined by how much air it can suck in. Throttle stops and bleed screws unless you have a leak in the intake rubbers Do you have small rubber hoses attached between the two intakes, perhaps extra air is getting in there I have a MyECU also

If the black wire is cut I'm thinking you must have an after market regulator The originals have Ducati Energia stamped on them, they need the black wire to work Look at the one you have and see if there is a make/model on it Moto Guzzi - making electricians out of riders for 90 years Roy

By the sounds of it you do have a loose connection. Check the 30 Amp fuse clip to see if it's not loose and heating. Check where the yellow wires are soldered to the alternator coil, they break off with age, easy fixed. The regulator relies on the headlight circuit for a Voltage reference, the Black wire of the Black/White pair taps in between the headlight relay and the headlight. As Moto Fugazzi says, it's very important to have a good ground on the regulator body because all the current has to pass back through the ground. Any Voltage drop there is lost to the battery. I suggest a short wire between the reg and a timing cover screw, add a bit of Vaseline to stop corrosion. I used to think the regulators on these bikes were ok but I finally gave in and bought an Electrosport ESR510 for mine. It's directly connected to the battery so it doesn't suffer from stray voltage drop or bad contacts. It doesn't come with the fuse shown in the picture and the charge light acts a little different but so far it's been good. http://www.electrosport.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=esr510 If you wonder why I went that way rather than the recommended direct replacement, I wanted to get away from the bikes reliance on the headlight circuit reference. These regulators are made in China but when I asked they told me Electrosport own the factory there.