Lucky Phil
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Posts posted by Lucky Phil
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Are these of any use? Larger version in my album.
Ciao
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1 hour ago, griswoia said:
Anyone have experience fitting 1100 California wire wheels on a v11 sport?
Love to swap off the mags but looks like front is an 18" (stock sport is 17"). Thoughts? Opinions? Experiences y'all want to share?
Oh and BTW this bike has a power commander... So maybe that would be important to the discussion....
Best and cheapest way to go I think is wheel hubs off a Cali and re lace with 17 inch modern tubeless alloy rims. There are wheels available from Ghezzi Brian and others but they are expensive. Personally I dont think wire wheels suit the style of a V11.
Ciao
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2 hours ago, czakky said:
That my friend is love! No towel throwing here.
No, still working on it, I'm getting more patient as I get older. I'm visiting my friend in a month for a social visit and to get the welding done. He lives a thousand miles away these days so a visit and a few days catching up will be nice.
I know whats going to happen when I pull the engine, I'll want to repaint the frame and pork chops as well. One thing turns into another. Probably end up a full resto. More patient but less sensable
Ciao
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Do the horn or any of the lights work with the ignition off chuck?
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27 minutes ago, Chuck said:
Crap, that wasn't it.
I was ready to buy you a beer. Or maybe a brewery.. 
FWIW, the oil pressure light on this bike has always been flaky. If voltage was low..as in it had been sitting for a long time.. it wouldn't come on. After a hard run in the mountains, on the interstates coming back to the beach etc. it would work. The next day it might or might not work.
I didn't care. Just the same, I can't have it on all the time with the ignition off. I'm not above unplugging it..
Can you tell I'm pretty frustrated right now?
Now he tells us. Pilots, same everywhere:) Sounds like high resistance in the switch to me. Where's Kiwi Roy when you need him.
Ciao
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1 hour ago, Chuck said:
No. Just the oil pressure light. All other lights, horn, etc. work normally.
Chuck, try replacing the lights relay. If its stuck closed you will have power to the LOP light, the low fuel level switch and the tacho with the ignition switch off.
You wont notice the power to the low fuel level light unless its low and not the tacho either.
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3 hours ago, docc said:
More likely you need a new charger. The Odyssey will not actually charge with less than 6 amps.
After starting the bike on the charger you might. Always thought this was a big no,no
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^ +1.
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So here's my attempt to minimise any chance of cracking on the L/H mount. I've Radiused the sharp edge on the casting without reducing the thin section of the casing. This should help. I think the other side is the primary problem area. I need to get my friend who is highly experienced in these sort of repairs to weld the other side. The process is to chase out the crack entirely which I've done, pre-heat the case so its nice and hot and then make several small welds to fill the area and add some extra material. The welds will be peened in between each weld run while the material is still soft to reduce/correct any distortion of the end plate face. If necessary he'll re machine the end plate face.
Ciao
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7 hours ago, docc said:
Very quiet, here . . .
Well the cracked gearbox case has been a factor. I need to visit a mate of mine to get it welded and i also need to get the side flow injectors cleaned and flow tested.
Plus there's this little fellow (Merlin) thats arrived. I havent had a dog in a very very long time. Forgotten how much time goes into a puppy. More work than a toddler. Std Schnauzer btw.
Ciao
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6 hours ago, Mikko said:
Oh? what kind of injectors are equipped n a V11? Don't much matter, they are getting pulled and rebuilt regardless of feed preference.
Green top feed Bosch, cant remember off hand the flow rate but greater than the top feed red Bosch. The green side feed are also of greater flow rate than the green top feed. The side flow injectors are not only greater flow but also give cleaner and simplified plumbing and dont have the highly delicate feed hose connectors for which parts arent readily available any more.
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On 7/17/2019 at 9:24 PM, Mikko said:
You can have your injectors cleaned, balanced and calibrated with a before & after print out for $57 + shipping
We have “Side Feed injectors”...when I get her home, that’s one thing on the list. Along with the much maligned throttle body bore..I may have these guys do both.
The std V11 doesnt have "side feed" injectors those are on the Centauro and Daytonas.
Ciao
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12 hours ago, griswoia said:
If you'll remember I started this thread thinking this was a fueling (a la pump or injector) issue. The bike has had a PC forever, yep forgot to mention it.
I've gotta say it's a dissapointing response that all varriations from stock need be enumerated before an issue can be discussed. Sweet baby Jesus these bikes are all 20ish years old. They must have a million modifications by now. Yep I've got pods and hey guess what a Motoscope Pro dash. Either of those might just be contributors in an alternate reality.
This thread has given me tons of info I'll carry forward keeping these bikes on the road. All of the discussion is archived and who knows how many future problems will be solved after reading this thread.
So guys thanks for the attention. It gave me a good push to solve this before winter teardown season.
Here is my input for future readers. The PC rolls in at 1500rpm. So if you do fine and then can't roll on disconnect and see if the PC is at issue. Easy test that.
So I guess the attitude is "please help me sort my issue but I couldn't be #@$&@#@ sitting down and having a think about what things/mods I've done to my bike over the years that might impact the process of finding a resolution".
With 50 years of troubleshooting everything from commercial jets to racing motorcycles and cars YES you do need to enumerate ALL the variations, and it's NOT a DISCUSSION its a troubleshooting exercise.
I find this type of shit totally disrespectful to those that are willing to help,really I do.
Ciao
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37 minutes ago, griswoia said:
reconnected PC3USB and runs fine...... so bad connection.
got this as the PC3 kept flickering as it passed over 1500rpm.
thanks for the help folks.
So you didnt think it was sort of important that you would mention the bike is fitted with a power commander?????????
It takes you half the thread to mention you recently replaced the fuel filter!!!!!
Seriously, people come on here for troubleshooting advice and help and leave out the basic but highly relevant information.
This is why I'm reluctant to get involved too much in these troubleshooting issues and waste my valuable time.
Ciao
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Just make sure they incorporate aluminium inserts into mount points esp ones like the valve and alternator covers where the tabs are smaller. I'm sure there would be a market fora carbon V11 tank with all the Ethanol tank swelling issues about. Talking about tanks they should also be treated with a liquid liner before use to make doubly sure they arent affected over the long term.
Ciao
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1 hour ago, footgoose said:
I'm finally getting around to installing the Ohlins from my '03 Rosso Corsa parts bike, on to my '02 LeMans. Searching through the digital manuals I have loaded, I can't find any information supplement covering Ohlins. The shock and forks were rebuilt at Ducati Indy, and set to factory specs, tho I'd want to do the next rebuild myself. Tree p/n's are the same.
I'd like to know what's different from standard regarding parts, (I see the axles are a different length) torques, and general assembly requirements, install wheels, etc. Is there a Ohlins manual supplement out there anyone knows of? Parts diagram? I think I've heard that the '03 and up are a different batch/model from the original ones on Scura. ? If there's a discussion somewhere on the forum, I can't locate it. The RC owner manual only says "Hello, yes you have Ohlins"
It's all together, and a straight forward job, but I want to be confident.. and right.
The Ohlins stuff is covered in the V11 workshop manual update. I can email it to you if you want.
Ciao
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6 minutes ago, JRD said:
I have been keeping track of my mileage and have been getting consistently 36-41mpg riding here in North Georgia Mountains. The inside of my exhaust cans looks pretty dark leading me to think I might be running on the rich side. I usually top off the tank when I get around 120 miles showing on the trip meter and it takes around 3.7 gallons. The " low fuel light" has yet to come on. I am very fortunate there are several stations in the area who sell non-Ethanol gas so that is all I have used for several years now trying to avoid a swollen tank problems.
If you are running Unleaded fuel you can forget about looking at the exhaust tips for mixture information. That grey colour you used to see was lead deposits and the black you see now is the carbon thats a byproduct of low speed running and the warm up rich fuel map even if the mixture is correct.
Ciao
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46 minutes ago, docc said:
Other than cleaning this throttle body/injector rack with copious amounts of throttle body cleaner, I did not intend to service them further. They are from an 8700 mile crashed Greenie V11.
I have heard the fasteners anchoring the cross rails are Red-Loctite nightmares. Maybe not so bad on the bench, but to pull my long-time left-side throttle body on the bike? Not sure about that . . .
Also not sure why Andy York has decided to address his throttle bodies at this point?
Very true docc. My set of sideflow throttle bodies for the Daytona engine were like this. Stripped one of the screw heads off. Was very fortunate the others came out(on the bench)
My advice is plenty of heat with a small propane torch and all should be ok.
I did manage to get out the broken one without damage by an easy out and the heat but it was a nervous task
Ciao
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35 minutes ago, Airtight Garage said:
Thanks for the tip, but how did you know I have a copper hammer?
Because one comes standard in the Guzzi tool kit with every new bike along with a grease gun for the drive shaft fittings, a multimetre for the electrics and a tether to stop the bike floating away if you ever remove the flywheel.
Ciao
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40 minutes ago, Airtight Garage said:
Thanks Doc,
Questions :Internal wheel bearing spacer length? 112mm ?
and the width of the smaller bearing between the wheel and the drive? 12.5mm ?
Let me know if I’m missing something
Will be replacing wheel bearings , as I do every year, and the final drive bearing as well as the bushings in the shock/torsion bar
Shaft gets lubed and cleaned every year 3 points- harmonic alignment on factory mark
Final drive fluid checked out
Cush drive checked out lubricated -splines good all around
Wheel is balanced
Axel nut torqued - past any reading by a gorilla
You replace wheel bearings every year!!!! no wonder the bearing bores are shot. How many miles do you do annually?
Ciao
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1 hour ago, docc said:
Hey, so, pretty sure anyone can hover on the poster's username and see the last time they visited. In this case: August 2015.
So, with only 7 posts, santiagoc may be well out of the loop. (I mean, it doesn't hurt to ask!)
Good luck on the bearing issue, A-G/Chuck. I just went through an ordeal sorting mine (well, I hope it is sorted!
)
Not a bad price on that wheel docc with a disk and drive assy even for 2015.
Ciao
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35 minutes ago, Airtight Garage said:
My rear wheel hub is worn to the point that the bearing on the drive side of the wheel no longer fits -lock tight green worked for a season but now the bearing fails quickly. Anyone had issues with this fiting? Solutions ie resleeving with smaller OD bearing?
Probably cheaper to buy a good second hand wheel. If you resleeve you would sleeve it to take the std bearing or bore the wheel hub to take a bearing with the same width and ID but larger OD if there's one available.
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1 hour ago, footgoose said:
I'm certainly not qualified to add anything to this, but a lean cyl would bug the crap out of me, and I would chase it to the best of my ability.
which would include coming on this forum and ask
But who says its lean, images can be misleading but it looks fine to me. The r/h may well be too rich. The only way to tell with any accuracy is to lambda probe each cylinder.
Unless you're prepared to do that then its just going to be a drawn out proposition. Are we willing to wait for a few thousand miles to see the color of the ports to ascertain whether or not its corrected every time you make an adjustment or try something, because thats what it will take?
I'll watch the rabbit get chased down the hole with interest.
Ciao
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1 hour ago, griswoia said:
Ok so UPDATE. Just cranked it and idles like always. Unplugged the TPS. Idel did not change (big surprise right) but revving is almost exactly the same. Things is guys it was warming up so the roll on changes anyway.
Point is TPS plugged it won't revvs coughs and backfires/does. TPS unplugged and see behaviour..... So I'll look at more TPS checks but looks like that's it.
Thoughts?
Unplugging the TPS and trying to rev the engine is a pointless test. Of course it will not rev and cough etc the same as not getting enough fuel because that's exactly whats happening.
To test the TPS you need to use an Ohmmeter on it and look at the resistance shift verses the positional rotation.
Ciao
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Scura wiring diagram
in Technical Topics
Posted
I cant honestly cant remember where my images came from.
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