Lucky Phil
-
Posts
4,632 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
240
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Community Map
Posts posted by Lucky Phil
-
-
1 hour ago, footgoose said:
I'm certainly not qualified to add anything to this, but a lean cyl would bug the crap out of me, and I would chase it to the best of my ability.
which would include coming on this forum and ask
But who says its lean, images can be misleading but it looks fine to me. The r/h may well be too rich. The only way to tell with any accuracy is to lambda probe each cylinder.
Unless you're prepared to do that then its just going to be a drawn out proposition. Are we willing to wait for a few thousand miles to see the color of the ports to ascertain whether or not its corrected every time you make an adjustment or try something, because thats what it will take?
I'll watch the rabbit get chased down the hole with interest.
Ciao
-
1
-
-
1 hour ago, griswoia said:
Ok so UPDATE. Just cranked it and idles like always. Unplugged the TPS. Idel did not change (big surprise right) but revving is almost exactly the same. Things is guys it was warming up so the roll on changes anyway.
Point is TPS plugged it won't revvs coughs and backfires/does. TPS unplugged and see behaviour..... So I'll look at more TPS checks but looks like that's it.
Thoughts?
Unplugging the TPS and trying to rev the engine is a pointless test. Of course it will not rev and cough etc the same as not getting enough fuel because that's exactly whats happening.
To test the TPS you need to use an Ohmmeter on it and look at the resistance shift verses the positional rotation.
Ciao
-
1
-
-
14 minutes ago, antmanbee said:
Maybe I should start a thread about this, but most every bike I have tested with a thermometer at where the pipes come out of the head have a temperature differential.
I have never checked the injector output on any bikes to see if they are the same, and I am pretty sure there is some variance.
My idea was to use the fuel offset table in the ECU map (via Tunerpro) to increase or decrease the fuel across the board by a percent or two or however much is necessary to match the temperature of the exhaust at the header pipe.
So essentially you would be matching the fuel output of the injectors by reading the temperature.
Or if you measured the flow volume using a 9V battery hooked for a minute and calculated the percentage difference you could alter it by that difference in the offset fuel map.
Its far more complicated than fuel in temp out. There are a lot of variables some of which are compression differences, squish clearance differences, varying shapes of inlet ports that give different amounts of turbulence. All of these and much more affect burning efficiency and therefore what you see in the exhaust port and it all varies depending on what speed and load is on the engine.
For a road bike particularly there is an acceptable window of operation and as long as the engine performs well, carburates well and doesn't use too much fuel then delving into exhaust port colors is a little pointless from a practical point of view. Race engines are different of course but they are operating in a much narrower window right up against the limits.
The chances of burning an exhaust valve on a road bike due to tuning issues are pretty remote. If the map is that bad it'll be horrible to ride. Of course reading plugs and ports on a road bike is fairly useless anyway unless there is an extreme issue. thats why racers always used to do a plug chop at the end of practice and the straight as low speed running everywhere else just gave useless readings.
Ciao
-
I wish I had the time to chase this kind of detail on a perfectly running bike. I'd take the spare time and forget the exhaust colour.
Ciao
-
3 hours ago, gstallons said:
You have it disassembled , when you get it together , start it up and use a mechanic's stethoscope and see if both injectors "click" the same ?
Good luck with that, the injector pulse duration at idle is probably only a couple of milliseconds. A Ducati 888 is 12.43 milliseconds at 7000 rpm peak torque.
Ciao
-
How do you know its running lean on one cylinder?
Ciao
-
7 minutes ago, luhbo said:
This axle is loose, so you'd better fix it, do not just close this hole.
It's basically the same procedure as for the spring. Cover off, lower wheel off, axle out, clean shaft and hole. Then apply strong Loctite and put the axle back into its seat, wait half an hour, reassemble the rest and put the cover back on the housing. Don't forget to change the neutral switch.
+1
Ciao
-
6 hours ago, griswoia said:
Love all the advice. I just put in a new fuel filter 6 weeks back. No reason than I was insulating the pump and figured 20 years on the same filter was enough.
I'm going to check TPS in the next day or so. Looks like there is one on the right hand throttle body. I'll report back. Not sure where the crank angle sensor is have to look that up.
Now you tell us LOL. Don't forget the fuel tank pick up filter screen.
Ciao
-
2 hours ago, luhbo said:
Anyone ever had a stuffed gas filter? Still filling from rusty army canisters?
Anyone ever heard of "bad" fuel from petrol stations with old contaminated storage tanks?
Not everyone lives in big sterile clean European cities.
Ciao
-
1
-
-
I'm always amused when everyone goes for the complex stuff first. How about the fuel filter? Of course if you have a fuel pressure test gauge that would be the first thing to check.Not saying its the filter but starting with the basic, simplest/cheapest option is troubleshooting 101.
I've had Ducatis do this, enough fuel for idle but not enough for anything else.
Ciao
-
1 hour ago, Bob Hartman said:
Update: All sorted. Not sure why.
Checked the old filter, which still had its seal. I thought that was a good suggestion. Drained the oil and dropped the pan again. The new UFI filter looked fine; tight to spec and, once removed, had its seal. Nothing was stuck around where it meets the block. Nothing was blocking the oil pickup or return. But the filter was empty - it had not filled during my little 1/4 mile test ride. Not sure how this could be the filter's fault.
Installed a shiny, blue ST3614 - but I filled it with 20w-50 first. Put everything else back the same way I did yesterday. Started the bike and the oil light went out almost before it came on. Went for a storming great ride around Guilford, Higganum, Haddam and Chester. No lights, no problems, no clue.
All I can think of is there was a bubble in the system that wasn't allowing oil to flow - at least during my little test. Other than catastrophic pump failure (only $24K miles on this bike), I haven't heard of another reason why this would happen. I will now listen to old wives (just don't tell mine).
Bob
Oil pump air lock, happens sometimes but pretty rare.
How long did you have the pan off for?
im not a big fan of letting the oil drain for lengthy periods or pulling the pan as it just increases the likely hood of oil in the pickup tube and pump also draining out and the pump losing its prime.
ciao
-
1
-
-
1 hour ago, Mikko said:
If you see this message Paul Minnaert, can you contact me please? i wanted to ask about the v11 tail you used to offer. Thanks..
Why dont you just contact him here?
Ciao
-
42,000 klms and going fine. Still running in.
-
2
-
1
-
-
3 hours ago, luhbo said:
Nice work. The casting cooling as root cause sounds reasonable.
Besides that, I know a guy over here who's claiming he heard his box crack while spanning the mount bolt
Worrying.
Ciao
-
So finally got to the bottom of this gearbox housing crack. I'm down around 1.5 mm deep on a 3.5 mm thick case. Its a strange thing, something tells me it may be production related as opposed to consequential. No proof of this just a feeling in the water. Like the crack is generated during the casting cooling process. The area it originated from is the tightest casting corner I've ever seen. I dont think its from the squeeze of the mount bolt and in reality there is a front engine mount and the upper gearbox mount (that seems to crack) and the lower gearbox mount sharing what is a modest load in engineering terms. Seems well triangulated mounting to me and the thought that the cracking is limited to the green frame bikes without the additional lower frame to crankcase members is blown away as this is from a later bike as well.
Hmmm, dont know. Next step is to see my friend the expert crankcase welder and machinist.
Still there.
ground out.
Ciao
-
1
-
-
7 hours ago, swooshdave said:
Do not assume parts manuals or workshop manuals to ever be flawless. Nor have the actual updates from production. Those books are assembled well ahead of production and production specs can change.
The only way to verify a spec is to test it.
Yes good points, but I have 2 manuals from different eras with the same specs and the "5" stamped on the valve housing. Also applying the rule of thumb that's been around for 100 years and still holds true of approximately 10 psi/1000 rpm and with the high cam engines turning max rpm of 8400rpm then a 5 bar or 70psi relief valve sound about right.
Also there's no guarantee with a relief valve that the original spring hasn't sagged so measuring its crack pressure wont necessarily give you a baseline.
Ciao
-
7 hours ago, al_roethlisberger said:
Those look pretty cool. I could only use the rear nuts since I have the Ducati front hollow axle, but am curious what size and where you sourced the rear axle nuts.
I agree that I don't think the point is saving weight, but instead replacing the corroding OEM fasteners... but not replacing them with something that introduces a more significant mechanical problem. So the Ti sound interesting.
The axle nuts are Probolt brand and I honestly cant remember what the sizes are, M20X1.5 or there abouts. I'll try and measure the size today if I can unless someone here beats me to it. They aren't cheap but on flebay you can find cheaper options in plain flanged hex style.
Ciao
-
8 hours ago, swooshdave said:
Why is there a chain and padlock on that poor bike? Was it naughty?
Oops, generally keep the chain and lock in the bedroom.
Ciao
-
1
-
-
3 hours ago, MartyNZ said:
Good point. You are right, the manuals give the same pump part number for V10, MGS01, & V11. This conflicts with a paragraph from Guzziology; perhaps things changed mid production.
The manuals I have give these figures: V11 pressure regulator setting adjustment 3.8 - 4.2 kg/cmq, which is about 3.9 Bar, or 57 psi. The V10 manual says the same. The MGS01 Corsa manual gives the regulator setting as 5.5 Bar, 5.6 kilograms per square centimeter, or 80 pounds per sq inch. All done with a pump with gears 16 mm wide by 26.27 mm dia. On my bike the red light goes out, and it runs fine, so I don't want to change anything.
My Daytona and Centauro workshop manuals(both) give the oil pressure relief setting as 5 bar along with a 5 stamped on the valve housing.
Ciao
-
5 hours ago, swooshdave said:
Putting Ti fasteners on a Guzzi to save weight is like having a Diet Coke and Rum.
True, I dont think there would be much more than a kilo or so to be save if you replaced every bolt with a ti one on a V11. I use them for their ability to stay looking nice forever. The weight saving is just icing on the cake.
Here's the Titanium axle nuts I use on my bike. Next time I have the front wheel off I'll machine some thread off the front axle.
Ciao
-
3
-
-
well after gaining some additional knowledge here on crack locations I went back and re checked my cases in the areas mentioned as problematical. The areas in question I had to strip paint from entirely as in the original images you can see some dye check finds I put down to residual paint but I wasnt really looking too hard in these locations as I thought the problem area was the lugs themselves.
I wast too happy with what I found so went ahead and blended the step on the r/h side. A somewhat disappointing result I'm afraid as can be seen. I havent chased the crack all the way out so ultimately I dont know the depth as yet.
Ciao
-
1
-
-
1 hour ago, Kevin_T said:
So... I wanted to wait until I had something a little positive. While ordering an oil pump gear from Joe Caruso I asked him if he would have any interest in making a transmission input hub that would fit the Ram clutch and he seemed genuinely interested. Before you get your hopes up he is going to confer with his gear guy if he has the tooling. This might be a no go right from the start, but if he does is there any real desire for this hub? To me it sounded like there was but once people start talking money things can change real fast.
Some people have made the conversion but I didn't see any real feedback is the Ram clutch a worthwhile mod? I know its too early to come up with a price it cost me 600.00 for the clutch and with the hub it could push the cost to a cool grand for a six speed conversion.
Any way just putting it out there still testing the waters. I hope sp838 took some good dims.
I think you can modify a 5 speed input hub fairly easily to 6 speed dimensions and they still make those
probaby more economical way to go
ciao
-
11 hours ago, Tinus89 said:
That lowest/most right corner is where my gearbox cracked...
Hey Tinus89 can you re post here the images of your gearbox crack. The ones in the historical thread wont open anymore.
I've seen LowRyter's l/h mount crack images so it looks like I've got some more reworking to do.
Ciao
-
6 minutes ago, docc said:
So, a V10-11 badass Greenie? Not just bench jewelry, I'd wager . . .
We'll find out once I can figure a way to actually get it off the bench:) Might need to enlist the help of a few 20 year olds I know.
Ciao
-
1
-
Rear wheel hub
in Technical Topics
Posted
Probably cheaper to buy a good second hand wheel. If you resleeve you would sleeve it to take the std bearing or bore the wheel hub to take a bearing with the same width and ID but larger OD if there's one available.
Ciao