Lucky Phil

Yea, not so much about how much gets up there but how long it takes for the flow to start getting to the head from dead cold. Some engines take quite a while I'm led to believe but then again the older I get the more I believe. Absolutely nothing surprises me anymore. Ciao

Maybe not so much. I re-read nanochickens posts and I missed one. He said he removed the l/h valve cover and cranked twice for about 8 seconds with the plugs out and didn't see any oil flow. Hmm, not sure if this is A typical or not. Pete Roper might know from doing it before. It wouldn't totally surprise me if it took longer than this for the heads to get fed after starting let alone cranking. He did't mention if the Oil pressure light went out during this cranking with the plugs out. My Daytona engine puts the light out the second you hit the button well before the engine fires. Can't remember if the 2 valve engine was the same. Ciao

Honestly the last thing I would be looking at on a bike with that mileage would be the pump. The usual suspects leaving out a mechanically damaged engine are. the switch The filter and gasket A missing section of sump plate gasket on the oil module a poorly seated oil pressure relief valve A blocked oil pickup screen, maybe. faulty wiring to the switch. A V11 pump is pretty bullet proof. I know lowrider has an issue with his Cali? and the dealer mechanic changed a pump after a priming issue but I'd have loved to see the old pump. Ciao

I would just change the switch. I've had switches fail to open on start and leave the light on and it wasn't on a Guzzi. My GSXR1000 track bike did it once. That was enough for me, I just changed out the switch and it was fixed. Just for the sake of accuracy a v11 doesn't use a trochoidal pump. It uses a gear pump. Not saying there mightn't be a more serious issue but do I need to remind everyone of Occams Razor? Ciao

Yes docc I'll own an electric town car one day for sure, but a town car to me is like some sort of white goods, there do do a job and require zero input of any kind. So much of motoring for me is about the visceral stuff, without that it's just transport. There's a reason at air shows everyone wants to see the old WW2 fighters more than the jets fly around. Ciao

Just for clarity, because 2 filters are made in the same factory and look externally identical doesn't mean they actually are. Companies like Champion make filters for a lot of different brands and each brand has it's own specification for the filter internals. Things such as filter medium, size, # of pleats, check valve material, cardboard end supports etc. The list is long. Ciao

I think electric vehicles have their place in the world but if I'm eventually forced to ride an electric motorcycle i'll just stop being interested in the motorcycle world. Like those clowns Harry and Megan driving away from their wedding day in an old E type Jag convertible that had been converted to electric. Pathetic. Automotive history sacrificed on the alter of Wokeness for an entitled generation. As for battery technology well the last thing I saw on that was it's still today 1/100th the energy density of gasoline. Some way to go yet and battery research has been very focused and funded for many years already. Here's the most sensible thing I've seen on electric bikes. Ciao

I wouldn't be to concerned about the mag plug, depends if it's been regularly cleaned when changing the oil. The filter is a UFI I think, 74mm. May as well check the seal and change it out while your there. Big ends OK? Looks like a switch replacement and see how you go. Ciao

They are still available but expensive and not commonly carried by tooling outlets. Ciao

Postponed until 2022 I hear. Ciao

Honestly, that wiring is shameful. Go into the room of mirrors and have a good hard look at yourself:) Ciao

Yes, the thing that interests me is tyre sizes, inches for the Dia and MM for the widths. So a 17" Dia X 180mm width by X % of width for the cross section. Go figure. Ciao

No it probably wont be arcing (unless your doing something very dodgy) it's just fiddly enough without worrying about spiked connections creating variability or coming unspiked etc. If I was on a trip and needed to do it on the side of the road or something I'd do it but it wouldn't be my first choice in the way I approached it.

Of course not because no carpenter in the world works to a tolerance of .35mm or .014" thou. Ciao

Whitworth is still a very common general hardware thread and bolt size for use in construction etc. Ciao

I grew up the opposite, learning Imperial and then Metric. Metric just makes more sense and is more straight forward. Imagine working on old English bikes with cycle threads. Some British bikes actually have their own bespoke thread size and pitch that you can't buy an over the counter replacement for. I believe the BSA Bantam centre stand bolt is one. These are the people that invented the Imperial system, Nuff said. Ciao

I spent my whole career working on US built aircraft, so all AF (plus a lot of years on Airbus, and Fokker come to think of it) and the metric system is by far and away the best. I can measure out 900mm OR 35 and 27/64ths", spare me. The only thing I still convert is 10ths and hundredths of a mm, thousandths of an inch seem more relevant to my brain for some reason. But I always do the calculation in my head, I'm not mad enough yet to use a calculator or anything. And who cares how much force a horse from 1824 could produce and the length of a mans foot from the same time. Ciao

Well I grew up in the aviation world where if a tool from you toolbox is missing after a job it's a massive deal and often sleepless nights. It could be sitting somewhere waiting to jam a flight control. Funnily enough I tend not to lose tools:) My 1/4 drive Snapon ratchet went missing a year or 2 back. I couldn't find it for about 20 min and wasn't worried about it jamming in flight controls more the fact that I'd bought it like 45 years ago and had it my whole professional career and now it was gone. Very, very sad I was. Then I found it, joyful it was. In my back pocket all along. Ciao

If it does shift better it's probably because it's allowed the shift cam/wheel to float a little on the shaft. Ciao

Considering how fussy this is to set the last thing you need is "spiked" wires to get your reading. Just add another layer of fussiness you don't need. Ciao

My business class seat has a USB port in the armrest Ciao

From memory the manual for the sport is wrong when identifying the pins. There are 3 wires one constant 5v reference or "power wire" if you like from the ecu. 1 earth wire and 1 output wire back to the ecu to indicate throttle position. You need to measure the voltage between the earth and signal wire output from the tps to the ecu. The PF09 ( Daytona) and PF03 ( Sport) pin positions are different but he manual shows them as the same ( it covers both models). I "think" you need to measure between the middle and lower pins. The centre pin is the earth which is easy to check even with the power off. Once you confirm that then the 5 volt supply wire is easy also because it will be the same voltage no matter what you do with the throttle. The remaining wire must therefore be the signal wire. You know you have it right when you open the throttle and the voltage increases from 0/157mv to around 4.8 volts. If it starts at 5V on goes backwards when you open the throttle then you have the wires crossed. Ciao

My advice is based on eliminating the known troublemaker before operating the engine any further since its had some running with the light on and has history. Yes I remember your oil pressure issue Lowrider, painful from memory. Ciao

Pete and Lowrider have of course made good suggestions but we are talking about oil pressure here and about the only thing that really causes this that's a possible disaster is the filter coming loose OR 2 gaskets fitted to the filter. Seeing it's a long running issue I'd drop the oil and open the access hole and remove the filter and check if it's got 2 gaskets fitted. Even if it's loose when you check it still remove it as it's likely it's loose because of a double gasket scenario. Once you have eliminated the worrying aspect then just change out the switch which in all honesty is the most likely culprit. BTW the oil cooler is thermostatically controlled so if you were on a short ride in cold weather it could still possibly be coolish because the thermostat hasn't allowed full oil flow. Ciao

Very nice bike. I can pretty much guarantee you the noise you're hearing on cold start won't be actual pinging. Probably the time when that's least likely to happen. Ciao