Lucky Phil

Postponed until 2022 I hear. Ciao

Honestly, that wiring is shameful. Go into the room of mirrors and have a good hard look at yourself:) Ciao

Yes, the thing that interests me is tyre sizes, inches for the Dia and MM for the widths. So a 17" Dia X 180mm width by X % of width for the cross section. Go figure. Ciao

No it probably wont be arcing (unless your doing something very dodgy) it's just fiddly enough without worrying about spiked connections creating variability or coming unspiked etc. If I was on a trip and needed to do it on the side of the road or something I'd do it but it wouldn't be my first choice in the way I approached it.

Of course not because no carpenter in the world works to a tolerance of .35mm or .014" thou. Ciao

Whitworth is still a very common general hardware thread and bolt size for use in construction etc. Ciao

I grew up the opposite, learning Imperial and then Metric. Metric just makes more sense and is more straight forward. Imagine working on old English bikes with cycle threads. Some British bikes actually have their own bespoke thread size and pitch that you can't buy an over the counter replacement for. I believe the BSA Bantam centre stand bolt is one. These are the people that invented the Imperial system, Nuff said. Ciao

I spent my whole career working on US built aircraft, so all AF (plus a lot of years on Airbus, and Fokker come to think of it) and the metric system is by far and away the best. I can measure out 900mm OR 35 and 27/64ths", spare me. The only thing I still convert is 10ths and hundredths of a mm, thousandths of an inch seem more relevant to my brain for some reason. But I always do the calculation in my head, I'm not mad enough yet to use a calculator or anything. And who cares how much force a horse from 1824 could produce and the length of a mans foot from the same time. Ciao

Well I grew up in the aviation world where if a tool from you toolbox is missing after a job it's a massive deal and often sleepless nights. It could be sitting somewhere waiting to jam a flight control. Funnily enough I tend not to lose tools:) My 1/4 drive Snapon ratchet went missing a year or 2 back. I couldn't find it for about 20 min and wasn't worried about it jamming in flight controls more the fact that I'd bought it like 45 years ago and had it my whole professional career and now it was gone. Very, very sad I was. Then I found it, joyful it was. In my back pocket all along. Ciao

If it does shift better it's probably because it's allowed the shift cam/wheel to float a little on the shaft. Ciao

Considering how fussy this is to set the last thing you need is "spiked" wires to get your reading. Just add another layer of fussiness you don't need. Ciao

My business class seat has a USB port in the armrest Ciao

From memory the manual for the sport is wrong when identifying the pins. There are 3 wires one constant 5v reference or "power wire" if you like from the ecu. 1 earth wire and 1 output wire back to the ecu to indicate throttle position. You need to measure the voltage between the earth and signal wire output from the tps to the ecu. The PF09 ( Daytona) and PF03 ( Sport) pin positions are different but he manual shows them as the same ( it covers both models). I "think" you need to measure between the middle and lower pins. The centre pin is the earth which is easy to check even with the power off. Once you confirm that then the 5 volt supply wire is easy also because it will be the same voltage no matter what you do with the throttle. The remaining wire must therefore be the signal wire. You know you have it right when you open the throttle and the voltage increases from 0/157mv to around 4.8 volts. If it starts at 5V on goes backwards when you open the throttle then you have the wires crossed. Ciao

My advice is based on eliminating the known troublemaker before operating the engine any further since its had some running with the light on and has history. Yes I remember your oil pressure issue Lowrider, painful from memory. Ciao

Pete and Lowrider have of course made good suggestions but we are talking about oil pressure here and about the only thing that really causes this that's a possible disaster is the filter coming loose OR 2 gaskets fitted to the filter. Seeing it's a long running issue I'd drop the oil and open the access hole and remove the filter and check if it's got 2 gaskets fitted. Even if it's loose when you check it still remove it as it's likely it's loose because of a double gasket scenario. Once you have eliminated the worrying aspect then just change out the switch which in all honesty is the most likely culprit. BTW the oil cooler is thermostatically controlled so if you were on a short ride in cold weather it could still possibly be coolish because the thermostat hasn't allowed full oil flow. Ciao

Very nice bike. I can pretty much guarantee you the noise you're hearing on cold start won't be actual pinging. Probably the time when that's least likely to happen. Ciao

Yes all Hi Cam powered bikes. For the sake of accuracy I did a quick re check and the number I came up with on the web was 3174 but I'm sure Paul Minnaert and I have discussed this and the number was 3910 which stuck in my admittedly none to accurate memory. Anyway you get the idea, not many in the grander scheme of things. If Paul chimes in I'll modify this thread so nobodies mislead in the future. Ciao

Old post I know but 3910 High Cam bikes were made total. Ciao

Will very generously sent me the std Centy and Daytona RS .bin files for free so I could look at the std mapping . Others wanted to charge me for this 25 year old commercially redundant information. He didn't send me information on his customised chips and I wouldn't pass on that info if he had as he still sells these and it's his intellectual property. I also was generously provided with a couple of modified .bin files from a member on the German forum, Karsten. Both of these work quite well in my 15M controlled engine and were a very good base to start from for mapping my particular engine. having the base and modified map details was an enormous help reference wise. Using a 15M ecu on a Centy or Daytona that you can readily programme with guzzidiag and tunerpro is eminently doable as I have proved. Check out my V11/ Daytona build thread for some details. Ciao

Yep Ciao

The std connection one. Maybe the ESR515, not sure now. bought about 6 years ago. Ciao

The ECU I believe. It has an unswitched hot wire to it through fuse 1. Ciao

Yes docc there's an issue there. The gears should sit flush. Like this. I magnified this image on my computer and they are def flush as I remembered them to be. Ciao

Well riding style and conditions have an effect of course but the cold start cycles are something I think people aren't necessarily aware of. The amount of fuel that gets thrown at the engine getting it up to temp esp in cold weather has a big impact on the range. I got caught out 20 years ago on my Aprilia RSV1000 when it ran dry about 20klm before usual and it was lucky to get 270klm out of a full tank of country riding so was marginal on fuel range as it was. I'd filled it up after the previous ride but then did 4 or 5 cold start cycles with little mileage and it caught me out on the next weekend ride. Always best to fill up at the start of the ride with a warm engine on the edge of the city for maximum range. The difference is very noticeable. Ciao