Unkept

That's a sweeeeeet bike Scud!

Tim, excellent work! I'm quite happy to see the progress you've made. Lindsey and I are having a good time in Germany. -Joe

I'll be happy to see it running again Tim! Thank you for being so easy to work with selling the bike, you truly made my life much easier as Lindsey and I plan our move to Germany. Maybe I'll get a Guzzi again in Germany some day? Thanks for the kind words Chuck, it was sad to say goodbye to you, Dorcia and the rest. Guzzi people are the best part of finding the brand in my experience. I may not own one now, but I've made friends for life. Glad you enjoyed the sign Tim. There are some Guzzi shirts and things in there too. -Joe

My 2002 LeMans is also missing a serial. The reason why (in my case... oops a pun!) is that the engine cases were swapped under warranty due to flaking engine paint. You also have a 2002, perhaps your cases were swapped as well which left you with no serial number? -Joe

On the later model year (02+) V11's the front subframe blocks access to timing cover screws. I don't have my thread here, but on WildGuzzi I've been tearing down/into my 2002 LeMans. The gasket is a primary reason... Mine wasn't leaking as bad as yours though. Sorry. -Joe

As the title says, I'm looking for V11 Sport headlight brackets,and maybe a V11 headlight. This is to run the headlight without the fairing on my V11 LeMans. I'm keeping the fairing, so please don't ask. I crashed a couple years ago, and I'm taking the fairing and frame off for repairs, but I still want to ride my bike in the meantime... so I need a different setup to run a headlight and turn signals. Please message me if you have what I'm looking for! -Joe

The tooth fairy better pay top dollar for that lost gear tooth! Looks like a painful operation to make. Best of luck on your gear replacement, I will certainly take note in case I ever run into such an issue.

Thanks GuzziMoto! My wife and I just got back from our 550 mile trip two-up for the first time ever. (I wonder how long most people's "first two up" trips are? ) We survived! So the suspension setup must be OK right? The seat and the clip on bars are what really made the ride uncomfortable. I still can't feel my posterior! I'll use your tips to get it honed down soon. For now we are going to rest before we take another long trip! -Joe

Hey Guys, I'm about to take a few trips with my wife as my passenger, and I ask for your help! I don't have a buddy to help/much time to tinker with the suspension settings. Are there presets from the V11 manuals for certain weight riders/comfort levels? (i.e. Sport, Touring, Comfort) With my passenger our weight will be around 280 pounds. We will have some luggage as well, so maybe 320 pounds total? I have the Marzocchi forks up front, and the later Ohlins shock in the rear. If anybody can give me advice on adjusting these, and especially if you have the exactly settings (how to reset, how many clicks to go for our "touring two up" setup) it would be much appreciated! Thanks, Joe

I currently ride with an Akuma Phantom II full face. I liked it for the Transitions self tinting shield, low 3lb weight, and awesome carbon finish. There is a new contender on the block now though... the Lazer Monaco Carbon! All of the features of my Akuma helmet... in a flip up helmet! I really want one for my next helmet. http://www.webbikeworld.com/r2/motorcycle-helmet/lazer-monaco/review.htm

Agreed, I really like the closed loop functions of MYEcu, so it's not off the table. For more immediate, cheaper tuning though I may opt for this solution.

This is awesome! I was thinking of going MYEcu, but I'd rather go this route if possible... I'll probably need it after the Ti pipes are installed. Crossover and airbox mods next? Thanks to all involved in this project!

I bought the bearing here. The inner race was not damaged as far as I could tell. So I cleaned it up and re-used it. I hope this won't be a future issue? (You're scaring me! ) Thanks! I would, but the temp is too cold in my garage for paintin'... so I'll wait until it's warm agian. I'll also take that time to re-inspect my bearing and other rear drive bits. It's all together now. Greased all splines and the axle/spindle. Also used a proper torque wrench, as I think the last guy to change the tire did not. The needle bearing failure and the damaged end (couldn't fit my 14mm socket in without some griding/reshaping) was probably due to over-torquing. 120nm right? Pete says, "until you fart." I use 80 ft.lbs. 120 nm converts to 88, and is probably correct. It's not rocket science.. The damaged end was probably someone hitting it with a steel hammer, peening over the hex. You're probably right. I bet somebody hit it with their hammer to slide the axle spindle back in...

I'm going to weigh the set some time... I put a 16 cell lithium iron battery in, and I'm replacing the stock mufflers with the Ti exhaust (I bought the damaged set on here). I wonder how much weight the Lemans lost? I did add a trunk though. That's added weight, and it's up high and towards the back. The worst kind of added weight! Easily detachable, though.

Thanks! I would, but the temp is too cold in my garage for paintin'... so I'll wait until it's warm agian. I'll also take that time to re-inspect my bearing and other rear drive bits. It's all together now. Greased all splines and the axle/spindle. Also used a proper torque wrench, as I think the last guy to change the tire did not. The needle bearing failure and the damaged end (couldn't fit my 14mm socket in without some griding/reshaping) was probably due to over-torquing. 120nm right?

I need to remove the rear half of the drive-shaft yes. I still can't figure out how to grease the damn thing correctly, so I wanted to grease the splines directly and put it back together. Also... A propane torch was the answer. I heated around the bearing for kept using my bearing removal tool on the inner "lip" of the outer bearing. I cleaned it up and... Now to put it back together! Where does that spacer go again?

Well guys, looks like I made things worse! ;-T I thought.... well if I can get a long rod against the opposite side of the bearing removal tool... I can have a long leverage point to hammer on! It... kinda worked! So it shattered the bearing into pieces. Now I have no "lip" or surface I can attach the bearing removal tool to. There is still the outside race rusted into the drive... how will I get this new bearing in there?! I'm thinking I will have to cut/dremel the outer race? Thanks guys... I hope I'm providing a good laugh for somebody.

I'm drinking coffee today. I have never drank alcohol, but wrenching on the Guzzi sometimes has me changing my mind about the decision not to drink. Thanks for the rivet size! I'll likely be on that tomorrow. I actually might use a Subaru driveshaft (2.5 inch diameter) as my tube to mold the sleeve back to shape.

So my wife is away for the day, and so I began work on the Guzzi rear drive needle bearing removal. That was over an hour ago, and I've had no progress. ;D Drinking my italian espresso... I used my blind hole bearing remover for so long that even with gloves on, I began the wear some skin off from inside my thumb. The inner bearing cage is completely flattened inside the race, and it hasn't moved at all since I began. I used my heat gun on the drive to try and loosen it up, I've also used the socket+hammer to try and break any rust loose. No luck so far... I've soaked it in pb blaster... I'll be back at it soon. Any other tips from the experienced needle bearing removers among us? Thanks, damaged thumb Joe

Spoken like a true 02' Guzzi owner. I agree. I've also heard tell of the front timing cover being cracked when people crash the V11's. If looking at 02 models such as the Tenni, Rosso Mandello, or Scura, beware the single plate clutch. Many say it is a nicer feeling clutch, but that they have a tendency to fail over the dual plate models. Only the Tenni, Rosso Mandello, and Scura were single plate that I know of. All 02 Guzzi's had the flaking black engine paint. It's cosmetic only but a pain to re-finish. I believe the stock rear shock eye has cracked on the V11 Sport's before. The Ohlins models shouldn't do that, but they are more maintenance intensive/costly. The bests models to own, IMO, are the Coppa Italia, Cafe Sport, Rosso Corsa, and Nero Corsa. They all have the updated paint, and Ohlins suspension setup. The only widespread issue I've seen on the 03-04 models are the ITI instrument clusters failing. The Veglia's on the earlier models seem more reliable, but do shake around a bit and aren't surgically accurate.... I'm sure there is more. It would be nice to have a list to go by. Maybe we should compile our knowledge from this post into a numbered checklist? (Most important to least).

Hey Guys, thread revival! I just picked up a used set of dented up Ti cans. I understand the instructions, but I've never used a rivet gun. What kind of rivets should I use? Sizing? Also, the finish is inconsistent on my exhaust, some spots are polished while other spots are the "brushed" look. Would a sanding job be able to bring the brushed look back to polished spots? Or should I polish the entire exhaust... although I do like the Guzzi logo. I also thought, doesn't titanium have a lower melting point? If I used a heat gun on the sleeve first, wouldn't it be easier to remold it to shape? Thanks, Joe

Hey Solar, Did you file the inside edge of the axle bolt, or the outside edges of the hex bit itself? I'm thinking it had to be damage to the axle from over torquing or hammering.

It seems like the axle being damaged is the most logical answer... I can try tapping the hex bit when I get a chance. Chuck on WildGuzzi says I could use a pencil grinder to "fix" the bolt. I'd like to replace the rear axle if I can ever remove the old one. Thanks for checking the size for me!

Hello all, I'm a fairly regular poster on WildGuzzi, but today I need the expertise of the v11lemans gurus... I have owned my 2002 Lemans for almost two years now. I had already replaced the front tire, but I have never had a reason to remove the rear wheel. Well I want to remove the wheel to better grease the driveshaft/inspect the u-joints, etc. Basically it's my winter project, I'd also like to change the rear tire sooner than later. I bought a 14mm 1/2" hex socket to remove the axel, as my tool kit seemed to be missing this piece. I can't get it to work on the rear axle! The 14mm socket appears to be too big. The nut has been removed, the caliper bracket, etc... but I can't get the socket I bought to fit the axle on the rear wheel.... It fits perfectly in the front axle! I thought both the front and the rear axle's were 14mm? Is the rear axle actually 13mm? I measured with my calipers and the diagonal measurements "farthest points inside the bolt" are different front to back.... I don't have much money, so I can't just buy a $300 set of 1/2" hex sockets. I have a set of hand driven hex keys, but they only go up to 10mm. Any help is appreciated! I have no one to borrow tools from, so I hate to spend more money buying a 13mm socket before hearing back from you guys. Thanks, Joe

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