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The shift is shorter than stock now. I like it much better, I haven't had a problem with false neutrals since I changed. I used to get them quite frequently.

Here is how I did my reverse shifter.

Pre Delivery Inspection. Most dealers charge the customers for this, sometimes it is included in the purchase price. It involves checking most nuts and bolts, simple assembly sometimes; handlebars to be straightend out, mirrors and turn signals installed, sometimes the front wheel, depends on the model and shipping method. Usually a quick test rides around the block to check for any glaring assembly defects.

Mike, I was staying in Castro Valley with my parents and was pretty balls to the wall visiting old friends and family. But if I ever get out there for a real vacation I give you Bay Area gents a post. What is this thing? Is it really the transmission gremlin? Found it in 24/7, very cute.

All the dealers carry "brand name" bond. Suzukibond, yamabond, honda bond, you get the idea. I always used the grey semi hardening. Most manufacters recommended this for sealing the crankcase halves on inline fours. It is actually made by 3M who also markets it as 1104. Just a funny note, I was visiting family over the holidays in the San Fran Bay area and went to Ron Simms shop over in the east bay. A mech came out from the back and I over heard him telling Ron that he would have to wait till tommarow to finish so job, he need to get some "yamabond" Just gave me a good giggle. Those of you in the bay area need to check his shop out, closer to a museum, than a shop.

This was done on the low beam. 4.45amps @ 12.10volts Pretty typical for a battery at rest. 4.94amps @ 14.44volts about where the regulator should max out. 5.30amps @ 16.36volts this is what a bad regulator will cause just before your ECU fries. , but the headlight was still O.K.

See, that last post proves it....

Well, you guys finally got me to go out into the shop. First, (V)Voltage = (I)Amps x ®Ohms and (W)Watts = V x I Second, Heat increases resistance. I did this using a standard automotive battery measured at 12.13v before tests and a 55w/60w H-4 headlamp bulb. All measurements made using a Fluke meter. Cold filament R = 0.5ohms across low beam connection. Measured 3.35amp draw at 12.10v battery = 3.611ohms, 40.5w Added battery charger Measured 3.65amp draw at 14.65v battery = 4.013ohms 53.4w Merry Christmas, and all those other this time of year celebrations. Here a little more reading...Electrical Stuff

When greasing bearings covered by seals grease should exit out the seal lip. This is normally accompanied by a popping noise. The reason this is done is so that the fresh grease can push out any containimantion, such as moisture or debris. Just be sure and wipe off as much excess as you can.

Convert This is the one I have used for a ahwile. This site is dedicated to computer calc's, I have also used Calc98 with a good degree of satisfaction. Sure beats that Windows piece of junk.

If I recall seventy foot pound is equal to "pretty darn tight." or If I recall ninty four newton meters is equal to "pretty darn tight."

We used to bring about 6 different exhaust configuartions to each track 4-1, Tri-Y, 4-1-2, etc., which could be used to help tailor the power band to better suit the riders need at a particualr track. This helped on the four cyln. machines greatly but was not even noticable on the twins, due to the flatter torque curves. For example at Daytona we used a 4-1 large diameter short length pipe to maximize peak hp and thus top speed.

Congradulations. Glad to hear you have made the bike just a little bit more "yours". Post a pic when you get a chance

I never have "bought into" the big name brands. Never made much sense to me to pay $20 for a tee-shirt just so that I could be a walking advertisment. But I did pay for the MG tank bag also, once again it fits. Doesn't Shoei still make a helmet like that?

I would love to see photo when you are finish. Maybe my wife would pay for a seat to help her butt out.... mmmmm......

Here is the Hardly Ableson solution to the drag pipes. Seems to be based on the Supertrapp. Making drag pipes work. You all want some Intake formulas to play with??

The formula is correct. But it is a simplified version optimized for V-8's and peak Hp. The pipes on own bikes unfortunatly were not designed for that. Their length is set by the availizblity of space, i.e. the exhaust port + the short radius of the header to the crossover. If you use the formula CID is the displacement of the entire engine. This formula is to optimize header to collector length. This formula produces a very good result for a very specific RPM range. Great for constant throttle position engines, i.e. planes, drag racers, 4-stroke boat engines, not street bikes Our headers also have a 1.75 OD. Actually 1.7786 on my Scura. With a header length of 31" and OD dia. of 1.75 our bike are tuned for 1250 rpm give or take. Explains the big dip at 4000g eh? (stock parts suck, or blow, your preference. ) Those of you that feel really in to number crunching..... Primary Pipe Length " = (850 * (EXO@0.001"+180))/RPM Primary Pipe Diameter " = SqRt ((cc per cyl./(Primary Pipe Length * 25)) * 2.1

Check this guys. Tuning Calc Exhaust explainations or this.. Header Design

Almost all of my riding is done two up. The better half is comfortable just long enough to make the gas stops. About 450 miles is the longest stint we have done so far, probably it will stay the longest. She complains that she has to lean to far forward to hang on. But she does love it when the road gets twisty The major hang for me has been luggage. I have the Guzzi tank bag which holds enough for her for a day. I have not wanted to add the luggage rack because I like the clean slope of the rear tail. (I just don't like racks I guess) Although I have liked some of the other fellows posts that have done some custom hard bags. But I'll probably pick up a KawI Concours to use for longer tours.

Mine was so loose it almost fell out but, thank goodness the pipe was in the way. I tightened it about as tight as I could get it with the alan socket. Probably around 25ft-lbs. Hasn't come loose in the past six months.

Hey Bento, From the looks of it you got one in your teeth too.

I have been slowly working a quat-d style muffler. Made out of 20ga steel from the hardware store. I am trying to create a internal similar to flowmasters to control sound, also going to have exit on both sides. If I ever finish I'll post some pictures. So far it has only cost me about 20 bucks. I like the idea of the short mini mufflers though, I might look into that instead.

Took a small 1mm hole in the metal housing to fix mine, the other things never helped.

I won't trade my 02 Scura. Well that being said. So far 5.5k miles, timing cover leaked twice (Warrenty once, silicone fixed the second), bubbling engine paint, (Harley engine paint fixed and got my wife a very nice rain suit), and the fogging tach, (small drill hole fixed). While you may have read about other problems on this site, shift spring, pinging, groaning rear brake, and now the recall on the trans and rods. These (in my opinion) are very similar to other model problems from the other manufactuers. (I won't tell you how many Suzuki head gasket/cyln to piston, timing chain job I've done.) While the larger amnufactuers are quick to fix and recall these problems they also do so because many more sales are at stake. (Hey guy's didn't we cover this somewhere???) Oh well you get the idea I hope. Just remember the problems presented here are the worst. There are several thousand very happy owners who we never have heard a word from. (Don't know if this is good or bad ) Personally I say go for it. Good luck on your descision. Would make a good present though.

Doesn't Ghezzi & Brian use something similar on one of their bikes?