68C

I fitted 950cc barrels to my 850 T3, I used the original T3 heads, I also lightened the flywheel. I used the T3 carbs. Now the T3 heads with larger barrels would have raised the compression ratio a little and the lighter flywheels should have meant a little more acceleration, in truth after the several months it took to swap things around I cannot really say I noticed any real improvement. I reckon the LeMans mk1 heads on the T5 barrels should run perfectly, unless you also fit the larger LeMans carbs probably not much will change. A lot of people think the T5 was the best Guzzi, good spread of power unlike the V11 which seems to have less bottem to mid range (real world) power. They are also bullet proof, the T5 will survive a crash better than the V11.

Just tinkering. I have enjoyed seeing how things changed with the MyEcu running closed loop, although I never did get the MyEcu to run any better than the WM15M, it has been an interesting learning experience. I have been using the Guzzidiag software with a spare ex Ducati WM15M that I load my changes into, I have fitted an LC1 with an AFR gauge to see what I get at various settings. I now understand I can set either Ecu to run at whatever Air Fuel Ratio I want....the problem is I don't really know what that AFR should be for max efficiency. Also I am unsure what I mean by max efficiency, best fuel consumption or max power? Every engine is different, every day you ride is different, temp, air pressure etc. I am beginning to think closed loop is not suitable for a motorcycle as we rarely ride at a constant throttle, at least not in England. It is just fun for me, when I want to go any distance I use the WM15M with the stock map. Thanks for the advice, I now know I cannot reprogram the 15M to a 15RC.

I was hoping to use a wideband controller with an LC1. I have been using the MyEcu, it works Ok just wondering if I could get the OEM Ecu to work in a similar way. The truth is I have never had full confidence in the hardware that I built, I always take the original Ecu with me.

Is it possible to reprogram the WM15M ECU as a WM15RC and so be able to use an O2 sensor? I have a 2003/2004 V11 which has the correct wiring loom to accept the sensor.

I had the same leak, although it ran out to the right. An old thread suggested clean the breather, did that, cured the problem. Generally, as Occam's Razor states, the simple solution is normally the right one, more likely to be a blocked vent than a cracked case. Good luck.

How does fitting LED units affect charging? I understand our voltage regulators are set up with the standard headlight voltage drop, if we fit a lower current item will this not result in an under charging alternator. I seem to remember this was covered in earlier posts about fitting relays to save headlight current going through the dip switch.

Hmm, transverse crank V-Twin with chain drive, do you think it will catch on?

I do know the older simple swinging arm models (T3 and early LeMans etc) lift the rear of the bike as you accelerate as the swinging arm is pushed down forcing the tyre onto the road. This is one of their nicer characteristics adding to that sense of 'oomph' as you pull away. Of course the down side is they tend to lift the rear wheel if you roll the throttle off quickly, a bit dodgy if you do it mid corner - probably the reason for the various parallelogram systems fitted to the later Guzzi and BMW bikes. It also simply added the ability to have floating rear brakes although that is really only vital on off road bikes.with their long travel rear suspension. As a younger chap I remember sitting at traffic lights and making my T3 bounce up and down by holding the front brake on and half feeding in the clutch, releasing it and then feeding in again repeatedly. "Only I can control this savage beast!"

No, that's when the guy on your left falls overboard.

Check that the breather on top of the gearbox is not blocked, it can cause the gearbox to pressurize as it heats up.

So what is the other bike just in view, Laverda?

I've just sent of for a pair of radial clutch and brake master cylinders on chinese fleabay. Sold as Brembo but will probably be spelt Blembo!

So what did little brother use gas, mig or tig?

"Say no more,"

THanks, I also found one here: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/351024612682?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT Your Ebay UK search result handy as it shows they are on small Cagivas as well. And that one is near my brother-in-law in Pinner. He has a 2.3 triumph converted to a trike with a trailer which I found very scary when I had a brief ride (drive?).

Thanks SP838, that is a great lead, the PS13 for the TZR125. 125's are popular for learners in the UK so I should be able to get one and spray it gold.

Thanks Skeeve, unfortunately doesn't match but it has shown me I need a 13mm piston for a single disc.

Hi NUEVOTOTEM, Does the Cali have the remote reservoir like the V11? I am keen to have it match the clutch master cyl. Hi ANDY H! The rear is a little long in travel but seems acceptable. I am considering adding a second rear master cylinder with a 'Y' shaped link, one for the front and one for the rear, I could even mess around with the braking proportioning then. The disc size seems Ok but worried about rear pad life. My old T3 just has a simple union joining the two pipes and the brake switch with no moving parts. I have got hold of a Cali proportioning valve which may come into play if I don't go the twin rear master cyl route. Some later Calis even have a ride height sensor like most cars, the less weight at the rear means less braking force to the rear. then of course there is ABS and radar controlled auto brakes and........I think I'll go and lie down.

Due to hand arthritis problems I have modified my V11 Rosso Corsa braking to mimic the older Guzzi linked brakes, the footpedal working one front disc and the rear disc. The only problem is the front master cylinder is not really matched to a single disc making it stiff and wooden. Does anyone know the part number of a Brembo master cylinder that looks like the original item but has a smaller piston, alternatively of any other bike that may have had such an item? I am keen to keep the original look so it matches the clutch master cylinder.

Here is an idea for the more determined person, a stepper motor to operate the tacho using an Arduino microcontroller. Bit beyond me I fear.. https://www.tindie.com/products/TheRengineer/analog-gauge-stepper-breakout-board/

I hope Piaggio/Moto Guzzi are following this thread.

I wish I had listened to my welding instructor, a thing of beauty.

I am interested in your middle stand. Any chance of some photos and dimensions, I tried to make one up without much success. Could not get the geometry right, exactly where in space to have the pivot etc.

You could start off by making a simple jig. Take your old rear crossover section and slide two pieces of pipe into the foward inserts. Weld those pipes to piece of metal to join the two. Slide the original crossover off. You now have a jig which gives the position of the original downpipes/headers. You can elaborate on this by welding up an 'H' shaped base and a couple of sturdy uprights, now weld on the jig at the same angle it would be on the bike. Playing around with bits of plywood and other welded up bits should enable you to ensure the new system wont foul the rest of the bike. Decide how it is to be secured/mounted to the bike and add the jig points. You can now go into mass production or rent out the jig. DO NOT WELD ANYTHING WHILE IT IS ATTACHED TO THE BIKE OR YOU WILL NEED A VISIT FROM KIWI-ROY.