belfastguzzi

Redline Dealer - Delta Oil Europe: Linconshire, United Kingdom, +44 (0) 1572 768311 I think I've seen Redline for sale here. My gearbox shifted in a slicker fashion after changing the oil to Castrol Syntrax 'Castrol Syntrax Universal - 75W/90 Part synthetic Covers 95% of all manual gearboxes, including those requiring a gear oil to API GL3, GL4 and GL5' I think that I have posted here before about the high metallic content of the gearbox oil each time that I have changed it, even after only 200 miles of use since the last change and again after another 200 miles. I don't know how long the gearbox running-in lasts for until this grinding lessens. You could have a look at your oil to see what it's like – possiby black and silvery and full of metal filings and the magnetic plug bristling with spikey steel bits. Even better, take off the side plate and see how much metallic sludge is lieing in the bottom...and while you're there, check your spring and shiftplate situation and measure your bits and bobs.

I have just had a loook at the fuel consumption for the recent trip to the Midlands rally. This reflects long runs with fairly high speeds. The bike also had wide panniers that caught a lot of wind. 145 miles was the biggest distance on a tank. I reckon it was running on fumes then. Over an almost 500 mile / 800 Km section: 38.81 imp mpg 32.84 US mpg 8.54 mpL 13.74 KpL JO'S, also on a Scura (but with K&N pods and a higher mileage engine) consumed a litre less petrol over one of the 'tankfull' distances between fill-ups. That might have been due to different riding styles, my newer engine, my heavier, less aerodynamic panniers.... & Baldini, also on a Scura recorded less mileage between the same fill-up distance. That may have been due to different lines on the road, different height of tyres (rolling circumference)...

Do bottles of fine wine have lids? Perhaps you meant peanut butter?

... try the pharmacy... ...........try Glenn Ross

What about the locating arm (proper name has gone out of my head) rubber bush that Baldini and others have reported as disintegrating at low mileages? – arm that is attached to right side rear drive box at back wheel. That might cause some slack and clonking in the tramsission system as you describe.

Have you seen the price of that petrol stuff? Other Guzzi parts prices are cheap compared to this. Either they replace the stuff that ran out under warranty or I'm finished with these Moto Guzzi people. When I leave my house I'm going to turn right – it's downhill.

What you guys are you doing with your bikes? Staring at them??? All the time? Come on!!! Those things are made to be RIDE! Go, take a ride. Damn, 2002 Scura with 1,650 mls. I don’t believe this… Quite right. Don't believe everything that you read. Yeeah, ok I did exaggerate. The bike hasn't really gone that far – but there's a limit to how far I can push it before I get plum tuckered out. There's something wrong alright, but I was afraid to mention it before – Moto Guzzi is in enough trouble already: you see, I don't think that Moto Guzzi put enough petrol in my V.11! When I bought it, it ran out of power after about 20 miles – can you believe that! After a while, I figured it was something to do with them not building enough petrol into it. Well I've been pushing it ever since but surely it's not meant to be like this? Should I go back to the dealer and try and get some more of that petrol, under warranty? I think I'll sell it then, before the warranty expires.

What you guys are you doing with your bikes? Staring at them??? All the time? Come on!!! Those things are made to be RIDE! Go, take a ride. Damn, 2002 Scura with 1,650 mls. I don’t believe this… Quite right. Don't believe everything that you read.

You might find it helpful, if you can get along to the V.11 meet at Bromsgrove on Saturday. For details see the V.11UK meet thread in the meetings forum. My Scura has 1,650 miles.

BTW here is the picture of my spring break as posted before, but bigger. Best interpretation wins a prize – get yer magnifying glasses out.

I have to correct myself. This afternoon I checked again with daylight Correct translation: (with daylight) = "when I was sober"

The point of gathering some basic info was to see if the problems fell within a particular production age range (maybe there was a bad manufacturing period) and hopefully also build up info on the spring boss sizes, so people should keep posting – even if it is just to say, "my spring broke at X miles and my bike is a 200Y model". Further good info would be: • size of boss • condition of shift plate where the spring bend locates on it • where exactly the spring wire broke • size of spring coil… is it free to bend round the boss without binding • any signs of other problems in the mechanism • If multiple breaks, at what mileages – with oe springs? • any breaks with aftermarket springs, if so what were the differences from oe spring and what about all the above in relation to the new spring?... * I don't think that riding style/changing style has anything to do with it.

Or keep it simple. I sealed the stock paper filter onto the bottom half of the box with instant gasket and gaffa tape. If I keep it like this for a while, I think I would put the top of the box back on for the winter, when the paper filter would be vulnerable to wet weather.

? :!: This isn't a good picture of my oil cooler etc. it's just one I happened to have, but still you might be able to see that your front end arrangements seem to be quite different. Did yours come like that from new? Your horns are higher and the cooler is probably lower. The tranny case is curved – at the top the smallest gap is around 8mm. That is quite a lot, compared to 0mm.

I just checked, but on my LM (with pods) there runs an alu bar from one throttle body to the other. The middle of the bar supports on the tranny. Furthermore there is a black metal bar that connects the top of both TB's So I don't think shaking will be an issue. This maybe proves the point. It sounds like your combined throttle unit has dropped. I don't think that the bar should be sitting on your tranny. It sits up above it with stock set-up. It is not attached to the tranny. I'm with the 'support at both ends is quite good in the long run' camp.

Yikes! Am I in danger of being sucked in? Better keep it under 2,000 rpm

My, you do have big pods, Al! Having taken the lid off and just left the stock paper filter, I'm not overjoyed with the noise that it makes. It sounds too much like an air hammer. I might leave it off for another week, just to annoy the people in England when I go over.

NO. I think Jaap should buy a giant electron microscope, for the good of the cause. As a contribution, I'll donate a bit of broken spring to look (and wonder) at. Someone should be able to draw up a list of other things that we could examine. PS Feel free to blow up my spring. Given the steel quality, coating it in bicarbonate of soda and dripping some fizzy drink on it should do the trick.

Come to mention it, it does look like one those dodgy pictures of the Moon landing. So that's how they did it: Veglia made the set!

It looks like the way the pic has been treated during image editing to me. ?

Re offending studs –––––––––––––––––––––––––––– Re Speedo Cable Lube After taking my cable and the end gear housings apart, lubing everything and putting it all back, the lube (grease) has been steadily coming out the end plate on the bottom gearhousing. this plate Has anybody else noticed this? I wonder is there meant to be a hole so that moisture can drip out, or is it just a bad fit? I think it would be better if the lube stayed in the cable, in which case I should seal it in. ––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––– Re Fogging Tach. As the plastic casing is identical on both sides, the only big difference that I could see between the tacho and the speedo cases was the big hole in the side of the speedo clock where the trip meter reset shaft goes through. Unfortunately, drilling a hole in the metal tach case has not stopped the tacho from misting up. Like the spring mystery, some things just aren't meant to be understood.

Well, Mr infamous Sweep, people have been looking for you (because they want to speak to you about..........). Your big question is: what size is the coil boss on your ratchet arm? If it is 16.5ish mm then we will be delighted. If it is 15mm then we will be very gloomy indeed. Have you measured it? PS maybe this poll thread should be pinned so that people can respond to it over the next month or so or until a useful amount of info is gathered?

There are V.11 pictures on their website, I think. I have certainly seen some somewhere. If you can't find any I can do a check – I think I have a reference somewhere.

I believe my gasket is torn as well. It also blew out in a few hundred miles and leaked a large amount of oil. I could see a piece of gasket sticking out of the join, so I assume that it is torn as Al and others have reported. The front cover is a bit difficult to get at as other things are in the way (Francesco has discovered this too), so I checked the tightness where I could and sealed the problem area. A new gasket is the proper fix of course. So, it depends how enthusiastic you are feeling, Francesco. I cleaned the area generally with white spirits (whatever cheap solent you have handy) and probably a paint brush and tooth brush and then did the final clean with brake cleaner or similar, to get a dry, clean surface for the sealer. As I said, it worked perfectly, with no more appearance of oil from the joint at all. As far as your second leak is concerned, people have had difficulty tracking down where exactly a bit of wetness at the back of the motor comes from. I have taken the advice that if it is only very small, don't worry about it. The leak at the front, in contrast, was not very small – it was very big.

There have been posts more recent than 2002 about this. If it is from the front gasket, as your second post infers, then oil leak can be easily stopped by applying sealant from the outside, over the joint. I used blue instant gasket type sealer and then covered it with black silicone to match my black cases. No point in pulling the front case off until you really need to.