leafman60

Anybody know where I can get some satin black body paint to match the tank and fairing on a Scura???

Ive been following this Scura clutch issue for some time now. Ive put about 7k miles on mine with no trouble whatsoever. I can assure you it see redline revs ona regular basis. Sure, there is the neutral clatter. This clutch feels better and works better than about any Ive used. I prefer it to the standard Guzzi unit. I cant help but wonder what percentage of these have gone bad. With only a handful reported, it doesnt seem of crisis proprtions considering the numbers out there. In fact, i wonder how many problems with the standard cutch are experienced that we dont hear about. I know, I know, Im not discounting the concern that unlucky owners have. I only caution against overreacting to a few high-profile cases.

Thanks Paul. Yes, Tonio, 2 cams in the Daytona. Thanks.

Ok boys I am re-camming a 4 valve Daytona with a "C" cam. I understand the stock cam followers are a problem. What is the source for good followers for the 4 V Daytona engine???

Sorry to plow old groung guys, buttttttttttttt, I never could follow past threads about spoked wheels. Where could I get a pair of spoked wheels for a V11 and/or Daytona ???? Thanks

If you have a helper, you dont really have to fully remove the tank and disconnect the pita hose connectors. Ive installed the FBF filter by having another simply lift the tank rear up and hold it up far enough while I did the surgery. Then, drop it down and bolt it up.

Regarding the advice against moly in the driveshaft joints > I think the problem is that moly tends to seep out of the seals more readily. This would make it more prone to coat the wheel as well as leave the joint dry.

I have a set of Galasetti mufflers on my V11. I got them from the mfg. They are a bit pricey and ordering from the factory is difficult. The cross-over looks just like a stucchi. Their sound is not as loud as you may think. They are similar to the Guzzi ti pipes, maybe a little louder. The hangers are pushed out, yes, and their purchase point near the front of the cans leave the cans cantilevered out behind. Its not a very tight mount system. Also, their high position complicates any sort of side bag mounting. The extension shims to kick out the mounting brackets usually rub the plastic seat base. There is another similar system being produced in australia.

Actually, I think in most states rear running lights must be red and not amber although its not something that is enforced often. Regardless, I added dual filament bulbs to my Harley indicators about 20 years ago. On my BMW, I added "Light Buddies" and "Run'n Lites" which are red led's. One models fits indside the amber indicator lamps and yet are so bright that their red color washes through the amber lens to appear red. They provide a solid red light for running and , as an option, flash under braking. In fact, the dude who sells them is the one who explained to me the state rules on running light colors as he insisted that they needed to be red and not amber. I havent yet converted my Guzzi units but I may try to adapt the BMW units to the Guzzi housings.

Ok guys, Im not trying to start a new oil thread buttttttt my attention has been drawn to the fact that pre 03 Guzzi manuals suggested 20/50 engine oil. After 03, the suggestion is 5/40. What gives?? I cant find anything about this in the archives. Is this because of the piston spray deal ?? 5/40 seems too light for me, especially in hotter climes. Somebody educate me, please.

This brings up a subject about which I have a question. What makes the radial brakes better ?? What about their design offers better performance than other brakes???? hmmmmmmmmm

The single plate rattle is noticeable primarily at idle, in neutral with your hand off the clutch lever. I think its from the plate rattling on the splined shaft. Once underway or with the clutch lever pulled, its quiet. Again, I have several bikes, including a Daytona, and this Scura does not seem grabby at all. In fact, it is a very light pull and smoothly engaging set-up.

Yes, but the idle situation was before the valve adj. Who knows?

Just an interesting observation for you boys >> I just did a complete service on my Scura (~6000 mi) - all oils, valves, head torques etc. I put Mobile 1 throughout with moly in trans and rear, 15/50 in the motor. I went for a warm-up ride and discovered it was now idling about 200 rpm higher. I had to reset the idle and re-synch. I guess its due to less internal friction.

Okkkkk, I figured it out myself. I got a pair of Pro Grips - "gel grips." I removed the old grips. Then I taped taped taped the bars with electrical tape to achieve the desired ergonomic foundation shape. Then I sprayed the grips and taped bars and slipppppped it on all the way to the hilt. The grips stretched to conform to the great shape I had laid down with tape. Last, was a pair of Throttlemeisters. Now I have a wonder looking and feeling pair of grips. The End

While we are at it, Paul, is there any trick to removing the Daytona fairing other than spreading it out and pulling straight over the forks? I hate to put such stress on it. Ive tried several approachs and this seems like this is the only way.

Thanks Paul. I can always count on you. What about the bolts I loosen to move the rocker shaft in order to get to 2 of the headbolts?? What do I re-torque those smaller rocker shaft fasteners to?? (Ive ordered an english shop manual)

Can anyone give me the specs for the 4V Daytona engine > the torque values for the head bolts and the rocker shaft bolts????

I want fatter grips !! BBG's I bought a wondeerful pair of "grandtouring" grips but the ends taper down too small for my throttlemeisters. Does anyone know of a source for fat-sized grips that will fit our Guzzi clipons???

OK, I have found a close matcvh for the red "anodize" paint > Testor's 1152 metallic red. BUTTTTT, dont shake it up too much. If too much of the metal flake which settles in the bottom of the jar gets mixed into the paint, it will look too pink. Open the little jar and take from the yop, the redder pigment. You may need to stir a wee bit to get enough metal to affect that look.

Good show, Paul. I did a similar deal last year for my V11. Ive meant to take pics and post it. I also added a second piece attached above to the upper inner fender area to overlap this shock-surrounding piece. (By the way, you gotta allow for the rear drive strut.) What I have now is almost a trap-door situation with a fixed extension from above and this swingarm-mounted shock surround which moves with the swingarm. Very little passes.

What do it do ?????? How do 2 bolts lower thy pegs?

My chops are the later ones that look anodized. Has anyone found a paint that half-way matches?

Are the red porkchop brackets anodized or painted. In either case, is there any sort of touch-up paint that'll render a similar look? I need to fix a couple of scrapes.

I tried lightweight Redline and could detect NO difference in shift feel.