leafman60

Good grief, we have some dueling egos here ! Sheeze. You guys are so insecure. Na na na na na. Ok, about bending this Home Depot aluminum, y'all are making this way too complicated. Youre gonna cause somebody to burn their fingers or burn the garage down. You dont need to heat that stuff. Good lord. Itll bend just fine. I do it all the time. Its better if you can find a dummy object to bend it around so you wont scratch your muffler or wrap the muffler in duct tape. Then, just get on it and bend it. Itll go. It may try to spring back some unless you use a smaller dummy to bend around but you can hold it in place and afix your clamps.

The "teeth" on the shift drum/wheel to which I referred in my earlier post, was my trying to describe the "pins" on said wheel.

Ive set up more than one of these shifters. That "second eccentric" controls the "up and down" motion of the ratchet shift arm that determines the engagement of its "hooks" on the shift drum/gear. Its complicated to explain if you are not looking at the mechanism. The under-acorn adjuster controls the motion of this internal shift arm one way while the "second" eccentric determines how far off the drum's ratchet teeth the arm's hooks are allowed to range. They both control the overall shift motion. If the second eccentric is too tight against the shift arm, it can cause it to bind or possible not even get its hooks over the ratchet teeth. If the second eccentric is too far away from the shift arm, it can delay the hooks going down into and engaging the ratchet teeth or possibly prevent them from engaging. Ive tried the scientific way of setting both the eccentrics and things never work well that way. My best luck has been with setting them close to what the factory had and then fine tuning by trial and error. The clearance of the second eccentric is just above the shift arm. Normally, Id say 20 to 30 thousandths of an inch or so. I dont think altering any of these adjustments is going to have any major effect on the springs' life. Also, Im not keen on bending the springs to make them less stressed. Once you smooth off the casting boss, if you transmission has it, as covered in other threads, I dont think youll have more spring problems.

Lol, thats "sight" for this site

Yeah, we've all been watching the slow unveiling of this engine for a long time. Im very curious about how it will perform and whether it has any "teething" issues (a la the hydraulic valve lifter debacle). To my knowledge, nobody (other than the factory ) has gotten their hands on one of these to try it out yet. Looks good and hopefully it can stay within site of the BMW's when their final drives arent broken, lol.

This is apparently another common problem with V11 Guzzis. Mike Haven at MPH offers some metal "shims" that replace the packing and tightens everything up nicely. Ive installed them with good results. They aint cheap but they work.

Technicality but I dont think the Odyssey is an absorbed glass mat battery but rather a dry cell technology. I have several in service. They work fine but need upwards of 14 vdc to fully charge.

The "adjust and ride" method is the best way. Ive set these up on a workbench thinking I had figured out the best position before assembly and, yet, when I did install the shifter to the gearbox, it needed adjustment. Go in small increments one way or the other until it works fine. Once properly adjusted, it'll shift smooth and flawlessly. Sometimes the adjuster lock nut is locktite stuck to the adjuster bolt but you can deal with that by backing it off and freeing it up so you tighten it down on whatever adjustment you end up with on the scewdriver-slotted adjuster bolt. In the tranny, I run Mobil 1 75-140 with moly added.

Yep, it looks crummy to me too and you dont need that hole. On the other side, who in the heck will see those welds once its installed ? Also, after a bit of riding, youre gonna get road weathering and maybe a scuff or two on it anyway. In the past, the biggest question was whether it would fit and bolt up without contortions.

Not too long ago, my riding friend had a similar meltdown with the rear caliper on his 04 Rossa Corsa. I was following behind him and noticed his trail of white smoke from burning brake fluid. The caliper got so hot it melted the pistons and even melted the plastic seal on the wheel bearing. We have mulled this over many times and concluded that, because of the position of the brake pedal, his foot was riding on the pedal and causing the caliper to drag. Verifying this was that I noticed his brake light burning before I could stop him. I also have a V11 but Im accustomed to riding with my right foot splayed away fromt he pedal.

Ive seen those pics and read those threads but, again, how do we get the 3% failure rate documented. Again, even at that, its not enough to make me worry. I like the feel of the single plate clutch much better than the 2 plate. If 97% of those produced are doing fine, thats good enough for me. My sky aint falling.

Scratch that. Todd at Guzzitech is the one with the new pipes. MPH apparently has a "bushing type" kit to help fix the leak on the stock crossover.

They look crude and home-made to me.

I believe Mike Haven at MPH Cycles in Houston TX has a repair kit and I also believe he has a set of new header pipes available without the crossovers. A friend of mine bought a pair and they look good. They arent cheap but they are less than stock MG.

3 percent is small and not enough to make me go out and incur the cost and effort of changing my clutch. Sheeze. I sure dont think is enough risk to make people wear prophylactics.

Where did the 3 percent failure rate statistic come from? Im not sure that would put them out of business and Im still curious about how many failures occur on the 2 plate units. Even if the 3 percent failure rate on Scura clutches is true, thats certainly not high enough to make me change the best clutch Ive ever used. I still think you guys are overreacting here.

I did finally find an old post regarding the Scura black paint : AKZO NOBEL 4M23745AK2 I dont know how much help this will be but Im going to consult with a paint store and see if it makes any sense to them. Again, my suspicion is that the Scura black is a base coat with a satin clear over it. I would think 2 paint codes would be in order.

Does anyone have a paint code number for the non-gloss clearcoat used on the Scura tank etc ??

I think you guys are over-reacting on this Scura clutch issue. Sheeze. The internet and this site is great but one or two graphic pictures and everyone goes into a panic. Id be curious to see the faliure rate of the Scura clutch compared to that of the twin plate. Stuff happens to anything mechanical and I realize that , if it happened to me, I may feel different, but I think its silly to go the trouble and expense to replace what may be the best clutch Guzzi ever used. I have over 10k on mine with zero problems. It feels and functions better than all the many Guzzi clutches Ive owned. At most, if someone is so paranoid from the hoopla, break yours apart and inspect it for cracks and then put it back.

I think you are overreacting a bit. Theres been a few cases with pictures splashed all over this website and people go beserk. Considering the number of single plate machines made, Im not sure the faliure rate is any worse than the old 2 plate clutch. I know a guy who had one of those shatter on him too. I know, I know, you dudes who have had the failures think Im whistling in the cemetery. My Scura has over 10k miles on it and its works flawlessly. Its the best feeling cycle clutch I have, including the latest japanese hardware. At most, I think Id pull it and check the bolts for torque and inspect for any possible cracks in the flywheel but I prefer to keep my stock clutch.

Qman, Ive had a pair on a Scura. Theyre nice but they are a royal PITA to get and they are very expensive by the time you get them here. They come with their own cross-over that mates with the mufflers. It looks like a Stucchi but Im not sure it is exact. The hanger straps are a bit forward and leave most of the muffler cantilevered out. Im planning on selling the Scura soon without the exhaust system which I may sell separately. Ill email you when I decide to see if you are still interested.

I once saw a paint number listed for the satin black Scura body paint. Does anyone know it or can anyone find it in the archives ?? I need to get a match for a repaint job. Helppp.

Be careful with the BUBs. They sound mean but they almost universally crack apart. They typically crack where the hanger is butt welded to the muffler. If you can rig up some sort of rubber vibration isolator where the hanger bolts to the porkchop, it may last longer. I bought a couple of these from BUB before they stopped production for about 400 or less. If you ride much, I can almost guarantee theyll break. If that happens,you can saw of the BUB muffler and attach a universal clamp-on unit .. JC Whitney ??? Hey its better than the BUB.

Boy, you guys arent making me feel any better. I am also a BMW rider. I have 2 of them. The big issue with BMW in recent years is the rear drive bearing : the one you are telling me that Guzzi copied!!! What a dark irony. The failures on the BMW are identical. The bearing fails, the cage disintegrates and eats the seal and spills the oil. My 1150 GS did it at 40k miles. I am a member of a local BMW club and 4 of our 12 riders have had rear drive failures. This defect particularly plagued the larger K-LT models and the GS models. A visit to any BMW site (eg IBMWR) will yield much input on this problem. Recently, BMW re-designed the rear drives but one of my Iron Butt rider friends experienced the same rear drive bearing failure on his new R1200GS with the "new" rear drive. A year earlier, his LT left him stranded in Colorado and he bought the 1200GS for "dependability." Anyway, wow. Im afraid the solution to this problem is much more complicated than changing the brand of bearing.

Is there any more news about the reported rear drive failures on the new Breva. I am so disappointed. Ive been waiting 2 years to replace my BMW with the new Guzzi because I no longer have confidence in its rear drive. BMW bearings are failing too. Now, I am going to go with some other brand. Dont wanna jump outa one fire into the next. I am a long diatnce rider and I need to be able to depend on the machinery.