leafman60

Dan, on the Scura ( I have one) > its a great motorcycle. The biggest problem with the Scura and most of the other 02 models is that the wrinkle finish paint on the engine cases will almost certainly bubble off. Some long threads on this are to be found elsewhere on this and other Guzzi sites. Also, the single plate clutch which Guzzi issued on the Scura is noisy at idle in neutral with your hand off the clutch lever. Despite some unusual cases, i dont think there is a major problem with the clutch. Mine works great. Also, some people encounter vapor lock with the fuel filter and pump exposed under the tank. Ive had no problems like that. The 03 and 04 models solved all of these problems. The new bikes have the fuel filter and pump inside the tank and new engine paint. The 03, 04 models also added a bit more compression and a new exhaust crossover. They also went back to the reliable old 2 plate clutch. Good luck!!!

Redline product information does not recommend the shockproof gear oil for synchromesh tansmissions. Rather, the MTL manual transmission lube is recommended .

Al, I hate to deprive you of a month's worth of research but I understand those hose connectors require a special tool to break apart. One option is to leave them alone and replace the crimp-on hose clamps which attach the hose to the special connectors. A typical adjustable hoseclamp would allow removal.

Ok guys, I have a 97 Daytona and I want to replace the exhaust system. Any suggestions on crossovers and pipes??? Ive seen the stucchi unit and I understand mistral offers one. Also, does anyone offer a rear cowl cover for the Daytona and 1100 Sport?

I posted on this also. Its simple. Get one of the hinged nipple grease extender and screw it to your gun orrrr attach a male fitting to it for connecting to your gun. Angle the head a bit and slip it up the rear and onto the joint fitting. You don't need to jack up anything or remove anything.

I have a Scura with the single plate clutch. The clutch pull is sooooo light. Also, hey, my engagement point is VERY long. It is anything but on-and-off and has a long smooth hook-up.

Go to a sign maker and beg, borrow, steal or buy a piece of clear adhesive plastic sign material. Taint bad.

Sheezaminny, black soot, gas smell most and "fuel cooling" usually means rich. But BACK to the question> rich or lean > why aint both dem dangs equal?

Actually, richness would make the pipe/muffler hotter and sooty. The unburnt fuel carries the heat with it out of the cylinder and through the pipes, to grandmother's house we go.

Dag nabbit, okay, why would my right cylinder be running richer than the left?? No PC installed. TB's synchronized, no leaking rubbers , idles great, runs great, butttt my right pipe is sooty and much hotter than the left

Any of you guys have less-than-good results with a PC??? Ive installed straight-thru pipes and the FBF airbox top/filter. The bike seemed to run good without a PC. I installed the PC III usb and loaded the "mistral pipes, stucchi crossover" map. The bike now pops and skips when not under acceleration. I'm taking the PC off. Any suggestions??? Similar experiences ?? I live on the coast at sea level if that has anything to do widit....

Ok, I removed my rear hugger fender to make room for an exhaust system. Does anyone have any suggestions on how to remove those spec labels stuck to the swingarm ?? I've tried peeling them but they break apart too easily.

Does anyone have a suggestion for a better place to mount a PC other than in the rear cowl opening?

Does anyone have any recommendations for a sport touring tire? Has anyone tried the new Avon AV45/46 ST?? The Metzeler ZE6?? I prefer stability over frenetic twitchiness and flickability

Has anyone fitted a 190 on the lemans rear????? Any problems ??? What about a 200???? Also, what is the consensus on tire brand/type?? for sport-touring traction and mileage?????

The natural rubber grips ---- yes, Ive had those too. I liked their feel and look. I had them on a bevelhead ducati I once owned. Ok, where did I get them. I found them in a parts catalog at a Harley shop, of all places. They werent for harleys but the shop had many catalogs. I found these in some place like Flanders etc.

Could any of you Euro brothers with a late model V11 send me a picture of your left switch housing which should have an on-off light switch mounted. There are 2 versions and I am seeking the latest version. I want to verify that such is available to match the other switches and get a part number. I want to replace my blocked-off US unit. Id gratefully appreciate the help.

Ok, I hate to dredge up an old thread butttttttt> Ive been considering elimination of my airbox. Upon greater reflection, I am not so sure that pods OR an open box top is best. I am thinking retention of the closed box, streamlining its internals and creating better ducting to it may be the best. The idea is to create a higher pressure environment from which the engine intake can pull. A pressurized box would accomplish this. Opening the top eliminates the capability to pressurize the box. Attaching pods places them in a negative air pressure environment in the passing flow of moving air. What do you technical heads think?

Hey boys, this might be a good time to convert to a direct-wire headlight setup like I mentioned on my post about Silverstar bulbs. My Guzzi with hanging tits :-) friends have gone to great lengths to prove there is a voltage drop to virtually all headlights through stock wiring systems. A small voltage drop translates to significant lumen drop. The fix is to wire a 12 to 14 ga direct fused wire to the headlight bulb(s) via a new relay which is triggered by the existing bulb wiring. This would reduce the load on the stock Guzzi relay setup while supposedly giving more light as well.

Is the 4 valve motor better than the 2 valve?? I know, at first glance, eveyone would say heck yeaaaaah. However, I remember the days when the Daytona was current. The 2 valve version, 1100 Sport, produced nearly as much power and turned in similar test times. More importantly, I was concerned at the opinions voiced by both Manfred Hecht and Mike Rich. I was considering a 4 valve project a few years ago and talked to Manfred before he "retired" from his Raceco shop. At the time, I was interested in what Manfred could do with the 4 valver. I was suprised to learn that he basically did not like that engine. He advised me to stay away from it. There were several issues regarding the valve mechanisms. Within the last couple of weeks, I was talking to Mike Rich about breathing on my 2 valver. Somehow we got off on the 4 valver. He echoed Manfred's assessment. Mike cited valve/cam mechanism problems as well. He thinks the 2 valver is much more reliable and dependable. Plus, a significant amount of extra juice is available from the 2 valve engine with tweaking. Supposedly, the "reworked" Ghezzi 4 valve slated for the MGS01 has solved the issues of the old layout. Time will tell. Thoughts anyone?

Make that 65-72 watts on the Silverstar H-4.

Ok, guys ( maybe a girl or two?), have you checked out the new Sylvania (Osram in Europe) Silverstar halogen bulbs which are available in H-4?? There's both a "motorcycle" H-4 and a standard 9003 H-4. They look identical to me. Most of the time, these "brighter" bulbs are BS but these seem to be legit. In fact, the blue-tinted globes on some bulbs actually diminish your light perceived light projection. I'm privy to mucho discussion in my Guzzi with hanging tits :-) world about the Silverstars and they seem to be the next best thing to HID. Several people have set up home test and swear they carry light further. I bought some and put one in my Scura. Its definitely a much whiter light and simply looks brighter. Its the stock 55-60 watt rating so nothing is stressed. The going price in US is about $20 each. The Advance Auto Parts chain is running a sale> buy one, get another for 50% off plussss get a $6 rebate. By the way, another popular fix among the more anal species of Guzzi with hanging tits :-) riders (when we arent dealing with failing rear drive units) is to direct wire your headights with 12-14 ga wire. They swear that this dimishes the voltage drop inherent in most stock wiring systems and gives you noticeably brighter light up front. You simply run a 12 or 14 from the battery (fuse it) and put a 30 amp light relay inline to the bulb. Then attach the existing light wires to the relay to trigger it to close when the lights are supposed to be on.

I removed nothing. Just roll the bike to the point where the fitting is on top. This is very simple. If you have a small telescopic mirror, you can use it to see the fitting. Otherwise , stick your finger behind the shield and feel for it. Look at the rear universal joint to get an idea of how the grease fitting is situated in the joint. I would highly recommend the Lubrimatic brand adjustable grease coupler. Also, take the head off of it and slip the little locking sleeve and spring off to make it slimmer. When you get one, you'll see what I'm talking about. This grease job onlyl takes maybe 2-3 minutes and you don't remove anything.

I just greased my Scura driveshaft. Took maybe 10 minutes. All anyone needs is an extension for the grease gun with about a 45 degree bend at the coupler. You fish it from behind the bike, through the swingarm tunnel through which passes the driveshaft, and "click" onto the fitting of the front joint. Just turn the joint to position the grease fitting at the top beforehand. A flexible couple works great. As indicated here earlier, Sears has one. Lubrimatic also makes the best one (which is carried by stores such as Ace). The Lubrimatic is a jointed coupler that you can bend to virtually any angle. It has a locking collar for holding the coupler straight but I removed this to provide an even slimmer profile. I put a 1/8 pipe coupling and a grease fitting on the threaded end of mine instead of attaching it directly to mu gun. I then click the extension onto my joint fitting as described above and then click my gun fitting onto the extension fitting. Nooo, I do not think the squish around the seals hurts anything. Ive done similar joints many times before. The main problem with too much squish is that it will sling off onto everything once spinning. By the way, my joints at 2500 miles were already full of grease anyway. I guess Giuseppi was back from lunch when they assembled mine.

Who else uses these same controls?? Ducati ?? Who makes them CEV ?? It iss a lamp control (as shown in the manual). Id like to get one of these switches to add.