thelonewonderer
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Posts posted by thelonewonderer
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Actually, thinking back, and looking at the manual, the pin hole on the cam was at the top, roughly around 10 o'clock, which is where the manual shows it. I also re-watched the video on thisoldtractor.com about reassembling the timing, and I did it just like that. So, wouldn't that mean that it's in the correct position?
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I'm not sure, but as I posted, earlier:
How can that be, left and right are tied together.
Yeah. The rocker arms in the left cylinder did at TDC, but I had trouble with the right. Interestingly, the left cylinder is the one with the valve hitting.The valves should rock at TDC as in both open when the piston is all the way up
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I started thinking the Right Hand cam had been assigned to the Left hand cylinder since they fire 270 degrees apart not 360 but that couldn't happen could it?
If the valves are rocking at the right point it would seem impossible to make contact unless a valve was sticking.
"While adjusting the valve clearance on my workbench, the left cylinder was easy to do. The right was a different story. The adjustment screws had to be almost completely backed out to get the proper clearance, and only then did the push-rods spin freely. I had to keep readjusting the clearance on the right cylinder after turning the engine over by hand.
It was also interesting to look at the timing marks on the flywheel. I got the "S" exactly where it would be viewed from the hole when the engine is in the frame. However, when getting the "D" in the same place, the piston was at TDC, but there was little to no play with the rocker arms, hence the adjustment screws having to be backed all the way out."
None of the valves seemed to be sticking, as I saw them moving as I turned the engine by hand.
Have you, or anyone else, for that matter, rebuilt the timing? If so, do you recall if the pin hole on the cam was at the top or the bottom?
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Yeah. The rocker arms in the left cylinder did at TDC, but I had trouble with the right. Interestingly, the left cylinder is the one with the valve hitting.The valves should rock at TDC as in both open when the piston is all the way up
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If the timing is off, I'll have to remove it in order to correct this, and I think it would be wise to check the valves.Uhh,why are you doing that?
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I'm going to walk through how I assembled the timing so one of you guys that know more than me can tell me what I'm doing wrong, if you'll be so kind.
First, I pin the timing wheel to the cam, and make sure that the area with the missing tooth is opposite the timing sensor (the pin hole is at the bottom of the cam, if I remember correctly, and also where my sleep deprived brain thinks I made the mistake
)I then line up the gears and chain on my bench so that the timing marks from the cam gear and crank gear line up.
From here, I move the gears to the engine and position them on the cam, crank, and oil pump, and make sure that the pin hole on the cam gear lines up. Then I check that the timing marks are still aligned. If everything look good, it's safe to bolt everything into place, and torque it down.
Seems simple, but I screwed it up, somewhere
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This isn't ideal, but I'm getting pretty darn good at removing the engine.
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Haha, I understood. I usually refer to it as cylinder #1, and #2 for the right.I can type as fast as I talk, but I'm pecking on a tablet with one finger. To be absolutely clear, the left cylinder is assuming that you are sitting on the bike. .facing forward.
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Will do. I have all day tomorrow to work on it, so I'm hoping I can figure it out, then.I'll bet its 180 degrees out. The damage may have already been done, but bring th left cylinder to TDC on the firing stroke.To do this, turn the engine clockwise looking from the front, and watch the intake valve. When it opens, then closes, the engine is on the firing stroke.Adjust that set of valves at TDC. You will see the S in the inspection hole at TDC.
Got that?
Ok.Rotate clockwise 270 degrees. You should see the D in the inspection hole. Yes?
Adjust that set of valves and report back.
If the valve ends up being bent, there is a machine shop a stone's throw away from where I live, so I'll see if they can straighten it out. Fingers crossed that there is no damage.
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Does it still have compression in both cylinders? I don't the piston can hit a valve without bending it and losing compression.
Something is totally not right, though . . .
Checking that now...
Compression is around 120 on the left, 150 on the right.
I could hear the valve hitting during the test. It appears to only be one valve, but I can't tell if it's intake or exhaust.
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Does it still have compression in both cylinders? I don't the piston can hit a valve without bending it and losing compression.
Something is totally not right, though . . .
Checking that now...
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sounds awful.
if the cam was 360 out, would that do it?
It's possible. I'm just having a hard time figuring out where I went wrong. The timing marks lined up as they should, and due to this positioning, the cam has to line up with the timing gear that attaches to it via the holes that line up for the pin on the gear, the timing wheel, and the cam itself. So, by lining that up correctly, and making sure that the gears on the cam and the crank line up so that the timing marks are in the correct location, I don't know how the cam would be off.
While adjusting the valve clearance on my workbench, the left cylinder was easy to do. The right was a different story. The adjustment screws had to be almost completely backed out to get the proper clearance, and only then did the push-rods spin freely. I had to keep readjusting the clearance on the right cylinder after turning the engine over by hand.
It was also interesting to look at the timing marks on the flywheel. I got the "S" exactly where it would be viewed from the hole when the engine is in the frame. However, when getting the "D" in the same place, the piston was at TDC, but there was little to no play with the rocker arms, hence the adjustment screws having to be backed all the way out.
I'm having a hard time figuring it out...14 hours straight of wrenching yesterday, followed by less than two hours of sleep last night (too much caffeine during the work
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Has anyone had issues with the valves hitting the pistons? The timing marks checked out. The only thing different with the timing is the tensioner. I replaced the stock one with a heavy duty tensioner after reading that the original one has a history of failing.
I've never experienced this before, so I'm not positive that the valves are hitting, but I'm fairly sure that's what it is. Here is a link to the sound:
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Well guys, it's been a while, but I got it to start. I ended up taking the engine out and redid the timing. The bad news is that it sounds like the valves are hitting this pistons. The engine turned freely when it was on my workbench and it didn't seem like there were any problems, but when it's running (which was only for a few seconds) it's bad news.
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I acquired a new timing wheel when I was rebuilding the engine, but opted to use the original again because it only had one hole for the pin into the cam, whereas the new wheel had two. I wanted to be certain that it was in the right position.Is the reluctor wheel indexed corectly? I think its possible for the drive pin to be 180 deg out on the camshaft. Although I might be dreaming.
Ciao
You are not dreaming, one can indeed place the timing wheel 180 degrees the other way. I can't figure why Guzzi made that possible, but you can.
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I'll be repairing the stripped screws as soon as I can, and checking the timing.Hmmm . Have you repaired this ?
Just for arguement's sake , can you inspect / check camshaft timing & to see if the ignition timing is in synch ?
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The injector retaining screws.You stripped what ?
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Thanks. Yeah, they are tight; I stripped two before I left.
If you want to remove and clean the injectors, here are a couple of references. Those injector retaining screws can be very tight though....but when I get back I plan of checking the injectors before I move on to checking the timing.
http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19795
http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=18805&page=17&do=findComment&comment=215317
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I've been out of town, but when I get back I plan of checking the injectors before I move on to checking the timing.You haven't posted in some time . What have you found ?
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If you have spark, fuel, and compression, I would guess ignition timing.
I would make sure I had spark and fuel. Just pull a plug and watch it spark (if you hadn't done so).
I had a similar problem on my EV. The fuel pump wasn't working because the fuse wasn't making good contact in fuse block. It was intermittent and drove me nuts; I only figured it out by accident.
Sorry, I am not much help.
I appreciate all the help I can get.
I'm starting to think it's the timing. Both plugs are sparking. Used a little starting fluid and nothing happened.
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See Czakky's similar experience here: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19801
You may have a different problem, but there was some clever suggestions on that topic.
Also, do you have cables and GuzziDiag? It will tell you if the ECU has detected a bad sensor.
Read all of Czakky's thread. Some good stuff for me to look into.
Can anyone tell me what the "go winky" light is and where to get one?
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See Czaccy's similar experience here: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19801
You may have a different problem, but there was some clever suggestions on that topic.
Also, do you have cables and GuzziDiag? It will tell you if the ECU has detected a bad sensor.
Thanks. I'll check that out now. I don't have cables and Guzzidiag, but I'll definitely get them. The bike might not be running, but you guys sure are helping me learn more about Guzzi's and everything I need to work on them. Thanks guys!
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When I put my Sport back together recently, getting all the connectors re-seated well and restoring full electrical conductivity to the entire harness took some re-doing.
Look at all of the lights, instrument illumination, dash*warning* lights*. Absolutely all of this works?
Everything is working (dash lights, turn signals, head and tail lights, break light) except for the horn. I only get a clicking should when pushing the button.
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Do you have a timing light ? To check for spark w/o removing anything . Do you have a Bosch type noid light ? To check for fuel injector pulse . Do you have a fuel pressure gauge ? To check for fuel flow & pressure .
First , make sure you have EVERY connection plugged in correctly and connected well .
I don't have any of that, but I'll happily purchase all of them. I understand how to use the noid light, but I've never had to use timing light or a fuel pressure gauge, so I don't really know how to use these.
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You might want to do a quick compression test if you have a gauge, since it looks like you have fuel and spark.
Solid compression. 150+ for both cylinders.
Rebuilt V11 Sport Won't Start
in Technical Topics
Posted
The crankshaft timing gear doesn't have a key. There is a key on the crank, but that is for the alternator.
They only reason I worry about the phonic wheel positioning is that the pin that goes into it and the camshaft has to line up with the timing gear, as well. So if the phonic wheel is off, the cam gear would be, also.
I am pretty sure the flywheel is correctly on. Then again, I installed it after the timing was put together, so if the timing is off, the flywheel would be, as well.
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