thelonewonderer
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Posts posted by thelonewonderer
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There are so many things it could be. These are not the points and carb kinda bikes. How confident are you that all the wiring and electronics are back exactly where they should be?
I only disconnected the wiring that was attached to the engine when removing it and didn't touch any other part of the wiring harness during the removal or reinstallation.
I've rebuilt a few bikes in my time, but they were all older Japanese bikes which are much easier to figure out. This is the first bike I've worked on that has injectors, an ECU, fuel pump, etc. Basically, I'm used to carbs and few electronics.
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How is your voltage?
Voltage is good--over 13. The first fuse gave me a reading for voltage, but the rest did not, but all electronics seem to be working as they were on, then off when I removed the fuses, then back on again with them reinstalled.
It sounds like more than one problem. With spark on one cylinder it should still try to run on that cylinder, if the plugs are wet. How old is the fuel? It doesn't take too many months for ethanol fuel to go bad.
I unplugged the cable from the coil and plugged it back in and I now have spark for both cylinders. The fuel is fresh; I drained the tank during the rebuild and put new fuel in after I reinstalled the engine.
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With a quality voltmeter, check the battery voltage (I know it's new, but check).
Check that there is battery voltage to both Fuse#1 and Fuse#2 (outboard terminal).
As Chuck says, swap the center relay into the 5th (last position. Always use a High Current relay in Position #5.
I swapped the relays but nothing changed.
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I personally don't like starting fluid. Pull a plug. Is it wet? Yes/No. Pretty easy. Sounds to me that it's not getting fuel for whatever reason. How about the injection relay? It's the last one in the stack. (farthest aft) Replace it with a known good relay. Just switch it with another except the one next to it. That's the ECU relay.
Both plugs are slightly wet, but it turns out that I'm only getting spark in cylinder 1. Not even a faint spark for the plug in cylinder 2.
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"seems to be getting fuel"
that's where I'd start. squirt something into the intake and see what happens. the smallest amount of starting fluid should fire it. If not then timing would be my next look
I'll try a little starting fluid to see what happens. The timing should be alright, as it was checked by a professional Guzzi mech...at least I'm hoping that it is. I'd hate to have to remove the engine again.
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As it spluttered anf now doesn't has the fuel run out. Is the manual tank isolation valve open?
Sent from my D5803 using Tapatalk
Yes, the valve is open.
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How's your timing sensor look? Nice and square to the case? Otherwise might be time to research the "Go-Winkie" light.
The timing sensor is square to the case. I used the same spacers that were on it before, as I didn't replace any of the timing components. What is the "Go-Winkie" light?
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Hey everyone,
I've recenlty rebuilt the engine of my 2003 V11 Sport and reinstalled it back in the frame. It wouldn't start, and I realized that the fuel pump wasn't priming. I replaced the pump, and the new one primes just fine. I've also replaced the battery. The starter motor is working, as the engine is turning over. The bike has spark and seems to be getting fuel. The valves are also in spec. I've gotten it to sputter a little, but not start, and now it's not even sputtering anymore.
Before I rebuilt the engine, the bike would start and run fine; I just had to get the crankshaft and conrods machined and replace the conrod bearings.
I also had the timing and the engine checked out by a reputable Guzzi shop in my area, and it was greenlit to be put back in the frame.
Anyone have ideas on what I can check and troubleshoot to get it running again?
Thanks in advance!
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I think you are looking at doing something that is not necessary unless it is running terrible , will not start or is backfiring upon start-up.
This is a check of the camshaft timing would be the proper term.
I am rebuilding the engine from the bottom up.
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I had the same thought
Do you mean Valve timing?
Under the "Check of the Timing System Setting" in the manual it says to "fit a dial gauge support into the LH cylinder's spark plug hole. Then fit the gauge into the latter." This is to find TDC with valves closed. Then, one proceeds to turn the index plate attached to the crank to make sure the timing marks are aligned.
I've attached a photo of the procedure. #5 is the dial gauge support, with a dial gauge resting in it.
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Hello all!
I need to check the timing on my 2003 V11 Sport, but I don't know where to find the appropriate dial gauge support. Does anyone know where I might be able to find one? Also, can anyone recommend a good dial gauge, as well?
Thanks in advance!
--Ted
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Nevermind guys. I got my hands on the Torque Table, so I should have all the info that I need. Thanks anyways!
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Hey all,
It's been a while since I've been on the forum. Over a year ago, one of my conrod bearings gave out and messed up my crank. All has been repaired, and I am now, finally, reassembling. I ran into a hiccup, though: the manual I have doesn't give the torque specs for the connecting rod bolts. Does anyone know what the specs are? Thanks in advance.
--Ted
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Ground down ??? Are you sure you can get undersize bearings ? Make sure you have them in hand before any grinding takes place....
Yes, Harpermoto has the undersized bearings
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Hey all!
I will need to remove the engine of my 2003 V11 Sport to get the crankshaft out. The bearings went out in one of the connecting rods, and it marred the crank pretty badly.
I know it won't be an easy task, but I plan to do the work myself.
Could anyone tell me what special tools I will need for the engine removal, and all the way down to the the crankshaft? I have a pretty good idea of what I will need, but I would feel more comfortable hearing from someone that has already gone through this process.
Thanks in advance!
Wanderer
When I take a look at the picture of the crankshaft the following comes in my mind: The damaged half of the crank pin is not really blue - maybe the surface of the crank ist not worn but bearing material deposits on it. In that case you can polish it off the pin. New rod bearing shells, cleaning the oil galleries, done.
Regrounding the Guzzi crank often leads to breaking if not done correctly. Mounting a crank from an EV can cause terrible vibrations because of a different balancing. Good luck I hope you can save your crank.
Thank you for the advice. I appreciate it. I will discuss this with the machinist.
If I do have to get the crank ground, does anyone know what the sizes are for the undersized bearing shells? Just so I can let the machinist know.
Thanks guys!
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I got everything apart. The flange for the crankshaft on the flywheel side was very easy to remove with the special tool!
Now, I just have to wait until next pay day so I can take the parts to the machine shop and get it all ground down. Can't wait to start putting it back together!
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The harbor freight electric impact gun works great, 250 foot lb torque no compressor needed. I have used it to remove clutch baskets,
and all kind of parts. Use a torque wrench to reinstall parts! I think its 40$.
I ended up buying a battery operated impact wrench from Home Depot. I don't know why I didn't think of Harbor Freight. I could have saved a ton of money!
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Air tools are your friend, but they won't pick you up at the airport.
They are, indeed. I need to purchase a new compressor, as my last one got stolen
Considering that a family lives above my garage, I'll have to go with one of the "silent" compressors. They're just so pricey!
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I can't, for the life of me, get the 27mm camshaft nut off, in order to disassemble the timing. A hand impact driver doesn't cut it. I'll have to find a power impact driver.
Unless you guys have some tips for me
Thanks!
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Take the rods in and have them closed and ground. You won't regret it.
Pete
Will do. Thanks, Pete!
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I finally got started on the bike today!
I got the engine out, heads and cylinders, alternator and rotor, clutch and flywheel removed. I ran into some stripped hex head bolts on the timing cover, so I had to call it a night (my upstairs neighbors wouldn't appreciate the sounds of a drill and dremel at this hour).The good news is that the connecting rod is fine. Soon, I'll have the crank out and to the machine shop.
I did manage to break the 3rd ring on one of the pistons. Those are relatively cheap, however.
Hopefully I'll be able to go back at it Thursday night. If not, I won't be able to work on it again until Sunday.
I'm excited to finally be working on this bike; I definitely miss having it on the road!
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I like the idea of losing the snorkels and getting a K&N filter (a little more noise never hurt anyone
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I stick with the stock airbox, for now. I don't really have the means to get it dynotuned, although I'd LOVE to. One day... -
Thanks for the responses.
I've done swaps like this before on carbureted bikes, and dealt with rejetting, but I wasn't sure how it well it works with fuel injection.
I'll look into ditching the snorkels.
Thanks again! -
So, since I'll be removing the engine from my 2003 V11 Sport, I've been considering replacing the air box with pod filters.
Any thoughts on this, or recommendations on which brands are the best for such a swap?
Thanks everyone!
--Ted
Rebuilt V11 Sport Won't Start
in Technical Topics
Posted
I'll check it out. I have a gauge, I just need to make sure I have the right plug adapter.