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thelonewonderer

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Posts posted by thelonewonderer

  1. I'm excited to get to work on this!

     

    I just have to finish up the old Honda I am rebuilding for a friend, so I can clear up some space in my garage.

     

    Thanks for all of the help, so far, everyone. I'm sure that I'll be back, picking your brains during the process, as well. Hopefully, within the next few weeks!

  2. Oh if you need the 32mm deep socket for the front crank nut I will send to you and you send back when your done with the job.

    Is this one deep enough:

     

    http://www.amazon.com/Sunex-International-2832-Impact-Socket/dp/B000TD8P3M/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1441817447&sr=8-5&keywords=32mm+deep+socket

     

     

    Or should I go for a 3/4" drive?

     

    Thanks for the offer of letting me borrow, but I'd be too scared that it would get lost in the mail, or something like that.

  3. Is it safe to assume that you have already downloaded the shop manual and parts diagrams? If not, I think you'd find those to be invaluable resources.

    Oh yeah, I've been reading and rereading the shop manual over and over. I got it printed out and bound so that I won't need my laptop next to me while I do the work.

     

    I've also been getting into Dave Richardson's "Guzziology."

     

    This will be the 5th engine I've worked on, but the first Guzzi, so I'm trying to be as prepared as possible.

  4. I don't know, what I do know is the bearing flanges don't slip off easily.. I have a nice condition Crank shaft in an EV1100 motor, you can have it if I could get it free of the block. I think it's the same crank..

     

    just so you know the forum at

     

    http://wildguzzi.com/forum/index.php?board=1.0

     

    might be worth consulting.

    Thanks for the response! It's helping to prove my theory that Guzzi enthusiasts are some of the nicest folks around!

     

    I've been in contact with Rick from MG Cycle. He said that the tool in the link below is great for getting the bearing flanges out.

     

    http://www.mgcycle.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=80&products_id=334

     

    I'm planning on ordering one, soon.

  5. Hey all!

     

    I will need to remove the engine of my 2003 V11 Sport to get the crankshaft out. The bearings went out in one of the connecting rods, and it marred the crank pretty badly.

     

    I know it won't be an easy task, but I plan to do the work myself.

     

    Could anyone tell me what special tools I will need for the engine removal, and all the way down to the the crankshaft? I have a pretty good idea of what I will need, but I would feel more comfortable hearing from someone that has already gone through this process.

     

    Thanks in advance!

    v11 crankshaft.jpg

  6. Uh....not quite. You can drop the oil pan & look in the oil pan . You might see a lot of metallic particles floating in the oil . If so , remove the rod caps ( after using a metal stamp to index them to each rod and direction) and look to see if the bearing and rod journal are o.k or not.

     How much you know or don't know will depend on your success . Be honest w/yourself and Google pictures of these terms , procedures and repairs to be aware of your situation and direction you need to take .

    So, I've finally dropped the oil pan. There were no metal flakes in the oil. Not sure if I want to continue on if it may not be a bearing...

  7. I think we have hijacked the original posters thread enough already - so lest we stray into the minutae zone of the whole oil level thing - may I suggest a level calibration of the dipstick (enough said about that) and then translate that into your preferred side-stand location - as long as you are consistent and have a reference point, then you "should" be ok. Personally I agree with Guzzimoto and prefer level. Because it's level. Are you sure of the PO's mark ..?

    Not at all. Everything is helpful!

     

    Unfortunately, I still haven't had a chance to drop the sump. I'm on my 9th day straight of work, so free time as been nonexistent.

     

    My plan is to drop the sump, assess the damage, then go from there.

     

    It's a shame, I got the bike six months ago to be my daily ride. Less than 4k miles later and I officially had to buy a car so I could have reliable transportation. It saddens me, since I really enjoy Guzzis. It'll probably be a while before I can find the time and money to get it going, again.

  8. Been down the big end route. From hearing it, I did around a mile at low revs back to the pits. Mine too, sounded OK at tick over, but knocked under load and over run from 2k. Mine too is an 2003 model. Sump and heads off revealed a big end shell overheated. This had scored the crank bearing too. New crank, new conrod as the bore had stretched oval. New shells and bearings. This is an engine out, splitting at the gearbox. So for re-assembly you'll need a clutch aligning tool. Considered new clutch plate at the time, but it measured up as new.

    Have you dropped the oil yet to see what comes out with it?

    Mine had done a little over 15,000 miles.

    Hope you're luckier than I.

     

     

     

    I haven't been able to drop the oil yet.

     

    Where did you find the new parts for yours?

  9. My first thought after hearing it through crappy laptop speakers is an exhaust leak. Make sure the exhaust system is tight, and put some smoke next to the gaskets to see if there is a leak. Let's hope it's something as simple as that.

    Ken

    Unfortunately, it doesn't seem to be an exhaust leak.

  10. If it's just the big ends they are fairly inexpensive, about $80 for a set.

    Sorry for being so green, but what do you mean by "big ends?"

     

    Update--I realized what "big ends" are. Is it possible to change the bearing, if that is indeed what is wrong with it, by removing the sump and going through the bottom?

  11. Whew......it sounds like you have a rod knocking ? What is your mechanical ability ? The oil pan needs to come off and inspect the lower end to verify. Do NOT run or ride this until you verify this noise !

    As for my mechanical ability, I've rebuilt the top ends of a few older Japanese bikes. Looks like I'll be diving into this one, too, as the local Italian bike shop charges $125/hr.

  12.  

     

    The frequency staying with roadspeed doesn't tally with it being there when clutched on stationary bike.

    The knock is there when clutched while riding, as well.
    yes, but I'm working on the theory that a noise which stays same in two different gears at same roadspeed comes from after the gearbox, ie driveshaft and wheels. Yet yours is present when stationary, so must be motor related.

     

    I believe it is motor related, as well. I have recently checked the valve clearances; they are in spec.

  13. Hey all! I have a 2003 V11 Sport. It has just over 18k miles on it. I did the scheduled maintenance about 2-300 miles ago.

     

    Riding home from work the other night, I became aware of a knocking sound. It seems to have started suddenly, as I didn't notice anything until that ride, and it is my daily rider.

     

    It doesn't knock while idling, but from 2k RPM and up, the knocking is very noticeable. I'll see if I can upload a video where the sound can be heard.

     

    I've changed the spark plugs and searched all over for anything loose, externally, but no luck.

     

    I know this isn't much to go off of, but does anyone have a thought or two?? I would consider anything helpful!

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