pete roper
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Posts posted by pete roper
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Peg nut/s on the end of the shafts come loose.
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I have in stock, no they aren't cheap but I have one. I'd advise replacing the pivot bolt at the same time as these stress and break easily.
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877847 is the part number for the shims. By 'Valve caps' I take it you mean the valve guide oil seals? If so that is correct. You also missed head gaskets. These come in three thicknesses so unless you want to buy all three thicknesses, (They're expensive!) it's best to pull one head and check which ones you need. Most bikes use the *Middle* 0.85mm gaskets.
Dont be afraid of using a computer Rolf. Twenty years ago I was like you but really there is nothing much to it. The Guzzidiag suite of tools is simple and intuitive. If I can use it anyone can and you need to be able to use it to tune the bike as the TPS is an interpretive value rather than an absolute one on W5AM Guzzis.
Oh, and roller kits are in very short supply at the moment. Not absolutely sure why.
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If there is a drill mark in the paint on the side of the head facing into the valley adjacent to the manufacturing date stamp it's a 'B' kit bike. If there is no drill mark it's a 'C' kit bike 2010 was the year that changed so it's worth checking.
I suggest you have a look at my 'Definitive guide' thread on the Ghetto.
https://www.grisoghetto.com/t5879-the-definitive-guide-to-rollerisation
Yes the map needs updating but even the last factory map is a piece of shit. Buy the cables and download Guzzidiag and the 'Reader' and 'Writer' program and get a map off Mark at Griso.org. Orders of magnitude better than the factory option. Make sure the bike is tuned properly too. You do understand how to tune a W5AM Guzzi?
If it hasn't yet been done it will be necessary to grease and probably replace the swingarm bearings and shock linkage bearings. If it has ever been out in the rain for any length of time replacement will probably be required. Also check the integrity and attachment of the two drain hoses on the airbox and make sure they are capped/plugged. Nothing kills throttlebodies quicker than even small amounts of dust ingress. Don't be tempted by a K & N type air filter either as they too will cause you to need new throttlebodies at a cool $1,500US or so.
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I've got a 'B' kit but I think I'm short one shim to make it into a 'C' kit. They are in very short supply at the moment. I waited six months for them, (B kits.) to appear at TLM and I grabbed both of them clearing them out again. Dunno what the situation is with SD but I'd guess no better.
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Don't get me wrong. If someone wants a gauge by all means fit one. The thing is that one fitted into the sump in one of the redundant plug holes or indeed anywhere else isn't going to give an accurate assessment of what the temperature of the oil is where it's actually doing the heat removing part of its work. Where that is is at the bearing faces on the crank, big ends and camshaft and to get any meaningful info you'd either need to have the sensor in a delivery gallery or better yet, in the stream of oil exiting the bearings.
In one way this actually means that an oil temperature dipstick isn't actually too bad a solution! Where it sits in the motor means that it is in the path of the constant streamer of oil pouring out from between the connecting rods as the crank spins but it's still pretty hit and miss, literally, and of course it will be dumping heat even as it travels towards the probe on the stick!
If the sensor is in the wall of the sump it's reading is going to reflect little on the temperature of the oil where it is doing its job and the sump wall itself is going to act as a dirty great heat sink!
Then there is the types of gauge. This 'Analog' type of gauge must use a sensor with some sort of waxstat or the like in it which then pushes on the column of fluid in the feed tube to the handlebar mounted gauge itself. In the gauge one assumes the fluid presses on some sort of membrane or mechanism that translates that linear movement into the rotational movement that moves the needle. The problem there is of course that the environment that the tube passes through will have a profound effect on the gauge's *Reading*. Running it up the back of the block and then through the valley will lead to it being hotter and therefore the medium within it expanding more than if it is routed away from engine heat. That will change the reading on the gauge rendering it inaccurate. As will different ambient temperatures that the machine is run in and the bike's velocity as that will effect air flow.
By all means fit a gauge if you want. Just don't put any stock by it! With the pushrod motors in all their iterations we know that unless something is really wrong with their set-up they are massively over-cooled and it will be very difficult to get them to overheat to a dangerous degree. The early Hi-Cams? Not so much. Later Hi-Cam is so grotesquely over cooled it is actually hard to keep them hot enough in winter!
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Can I say that fitting an oil temperature gauge, especially in that position and doubly especially of that type is an exercise in futility. It will tell you ritually nothing and certainly won't 'Protect' your engine.
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1 hour ago, Lucky Phil said:
If it's that bad then you've got more issues than CO at 21.
Phil
Too right. Is the ETS working?
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Happy to be corrected. I haven't seen a 16M bike since? Forever! And happy about it.
I actually thought the P8 was a happier thing, albeit vast!
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John, it uses the 16M. Don't think there's a version of GD for the 16M.
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The commonest thing that happens to MkIII's is that some prick gets a hold of one and sees that the jetting on the carbs is different from the earlier mid valve, roundfin, LeMans. This causes them to phoam at the mouth, chew the carpet and accuse the evil gubmint of trying to stifle the fun of the poor motorcyclist in the name of emissions. This is absolute bollocks as the carbs are completely different. Apart from the PHF, (From memory. I haven't touched a carb in years, thank @#!#$#!) designation they are a different instrument.
The *Experts* will install earlier jetting and turn the bike into an overfuelling pig that will wear itself out in 20,000km. and won't pull the skin off a rice pudding.
Next step is to install K&N pod filters to 'Free Up' the breathing. The only advantage being of this being they'll @#!#$# the carb bodies and slides so they need to buy new ones at the same point 20,000km down the track when they are replacing the barrels and pistons and rebuilding the heads!
Back about the turn of the millennium I had a bloke bring me a completely stock, low km Mk III. It was fifteen or so years old and very low Kms. I went through it front to rear replacing anything that was rotted or leaking, serviced it and rode it.
I took it around Test Track 'C'. Bungendore, Tarago, Goulburn and back down the Federal Highway, a three lane motorway/freeway. It was butter smooth, sprightly and I saw an indicated 195kph on new tyres. It was lovely.
Then they dumped that for the 'Big Valve' LM IV! An ugly, physically larger and heavier, vibratory turd that went no faster and had only minimally better acceleration. That was the beginning of a decade in the wilderness. Some would say twenty years.......
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Prior to the 1100 Sport series there were basically three different cylinder head designs and valve sizes. With the 700 and 750cc loops there were other tiny differences but by the time the motors got taken out to 850cc right the way through to the last of the 950's there were basically three types of of combustion chamber design, small valve, mid valve and big valve. These were matched with a variety of pistons to give different compression ratios and from the 850T right the way through to the 1000S they all used a 78mm throw crank. That 'Golden Age' of the Tonti framed bikes was really one where Guzzis were like Meccano sets for grown ups! You could mix & match pretty much end thing.
Of all of them the 'Big Valve' heads, which only came in squarefin form, have always been a bit of a 'Holy Grail' for people wanting to build rorty-snorty motors but IMHO the 'Big Valve' motor used in the MkIV-V LeMans and some 1000S's is a horrible thing! To get the compression up due to the combustion chamber being huge to accommodate the big valves the incredibly heavy, cast, pistons have an enormous alp of alloy on the top of them. This in turn makes the flame path long and convoluted and leaves all sorts of nooks and crannies for end gas to lurk to pollute the next incoming charge lowering combustion pressure and risking detonation issues. Bleargh! Horrible! Also big valve heads are absolute murder on valve guides! No idea why really as the 1100 motors, even the 'Sport' ones with similar sized valves and guide length don't seem to flog out so quickly as the smaller bore 'Big Valve' heads.
If I was in the market for a 1000S I'd actually prefer one of the mid valvers with 36mm carbs. While no doubt it would get me sneered at by people who 'Know better' the fact is that the mid valve LeMans III/1000S motor and it's even sweeter close cousin used in the SPIII are to my mind the apogee of the 78mm stroke engine's development. The Mk III was an 850 and to my mind every bit as sweet as the 950's.
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(Sigh.) While it is quite possible to improve the fuelling above and beyond the factory mapping adding any of these *Magical* widgets is an utter waste of time and money. The 15M and 15M RC ECU's have been an open book for well over a decade and modifying the maps is a far more accurate and useful way of going about things than adding some shitty little resistor to deliberately screw up sensor inputs.
Just say no to hocus-pocus! You know it makes sense!
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Nah, it was a combination of things I believe. I've written about it before elsewhere but when I have time I can cover it here if you'd like?
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Nah, tha failures of the tappets in the 8V had bugger all to do with oil or it's additives.
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I'm betting on the timing chest gasket, although they usually blow out further up.
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You have to be super-alert. The squeak occurs just before the 'Dogga-Dogga' noise. The 'Dogga-Dogga' noise tends to cost a minimum of $1,000 per 'Dogga'.😂
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While ZDDP is known to be *good* my bet is there are now other additives that will offer equal or even superior protection.
Oil is good. I use it otherwise my engines squeak.
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I'm working off my pad of eyes Docc. I just poke around on the screen, no mouse.
I've got a heap more pics of stripped and buggered gears as well. Some of them are pretty gruesome. The only ones I'd use are Joes.
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2 hours ago, tony.wh said:
If the gears Yu have installed are alloy or a combination of alloy and steel I'd take 'em out quick smart.
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Oh I'm not too fussed, I'm triple vaxxed and even with the bad lungs and dickie heart I'm not at deaths door quite yet.
Im more concerned about the possibility of passing it on to Michael due to his disability. My mate Mark had it and he only has one kidney and several other shitty body issues and it really knocked the stuffing out of him.
I'm not going to be taking any risks, believe me! I even put my cage fighting championship bout on hold!
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When I was running steel gears in my old roundfin engine I blocked the drain holes to the sump in the bottom of the chest and drilled a couple in the back wall of the chest so the pump gear ran in a bath and fed oil up the train. Was it needed? I have no idea but it seemed like a good idea at the time.
Not being as familiar as many here I didn't know that the V11 and early Hi-Cam motors used revised drainage from the timing chest. Earlier Tonti squarefin engines still used the drains at the bottom of the chest though.
With the Nuovo 8V's I also can't remember what the drainage set up is but I have a block on the bench so I can check when I next go in to the old workshop. That may be a few days off though as we went down to Melbourne to visit #2 son on Monday and spent Tuesday evening with him. This morning he was feeling shithouse so he tested himself and sure enough he's stuffed full of Covid! Now we were outside for most of the time we were with him but we'll isolate for a few days to avoid the risk of infecting anyone else if we are carrying so block inspection may take a a bit longer than it normally would....
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And every month that ticks by brings the end of IC production closer...
Tick-Tock Piaggio..................
Guzzi Diag help
in Technical Topics
Posted
An interesting little *event* I had a few dats ago in Townsville might be useful here.
My mate Peter and I were attempting to read the map from one of his Cali 1100's with a 15M-RC.
when we went to 'Reader' I could go through the 'Mame the map' stage after which the instructions stated to 'Turn off the ignition for at least ten seconds.' Doing this, on turning the ignition back on the fuel pump primed and the connection would time out. The dialog box actually stated if you could hear the pump then the download was aborted and you should try again.
After a few frustrating attempts I turned off the kill switch and flicked it back on again and, Voila! It connected and started the download! Interestingly though the download took ages! Like about 15 minutes! It was as slow as a 7SM! Weird!
The map was OK though. Being paranoid I sent it to Mark to get him to run his eyes over and it was pronounced good. So why it took so blessed long to download I have no idea........