helicopterjim R.I.P. Posted March 21, 2007 Share Posted March 21, 2007 Jack, I can't be sure since I installed mine either, but I could swear that I've noticed the SAME THING! Sounds pretty much scientifically confirmed to me!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dlaing Posted March 21, 2007 Share Posted March 21, 2007 Also, it might just be my imagination but the bike feels noticeably stronger above 5k rpom's now. I'm not really sure what's causing this, but I LIKE IT!! I believe it is an effect of the bling-o-licious racing stripe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baldini Posted March 21, 2007 Share Posted March 21, 2007 .... just flicker really, a few years back.... ... welcome home Al....just in time to defend your top poster slot....where you been...? ...Also, it might just be my imagination but the bike feels noticeably stronger above 5k rpom's now... Everytime I ride mine it feels different...depending how well sorted we both are... KB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dlaing Posted March 21, 2007 Share Posted March 21, 2007 welcome home Al....just in time to defend your top poster slot....where you been...? Ditto on the welome home Al! Al 5275 Me 5092 and I can't believe I have twice as many posts as Ratchet!?!@ 2531 ...but I think he has typed more words Top Ten to date: Al Me jrt 3,498 belfastguzzi 3,364 helicopterjim 3,106 DeBenGuzzi 3,041 Nogbad 2,767 callison 2,730 ratchethack 2,531 Guzzirider 2,416 Come on all you slackers, catch up with us, if you can! ...and I think I need to spend more time fixing my bike... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pete roper Posted March 21, 2007 Share Posted March 21, 2007 Jack, I can't be sure since I installed mine either, but I could swear that I've noticed the SAME THING! This might well be accounted for by a significant reduction in windage, as explained so well by The Master. To be honest I think this is probably wishful thinking but I'd be delighted to find out otherwise. As I've said often before I designed the sheet with the sole intention of curing the oil pick-up exposure problem, any advantages due to the deduction in viscous drag are purely an added bonus. Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest ratchethack Posted April 1, 2007 Share Posted April 1, 2007 Here's another observation along the lines of Jack's post #29 above. Had a chance to take the Guzzi out & really let her BREATHE today! Now (per above) I'm fully willing to admit that this COULD BE wishful thinking, the power of suggestion, or just Springtime in The Mountains , but once again it seemed like the motor comes alive over ~5-6K RPM like it never did before installing the Roper plate. Still hoping someone will come up with a dyno read before and after (all other things being equal) that bear this out.... Hey -- now I'm past starting to believe it COULD happen! I haven't been taking my mileage lately either, but I'd be willing to wager something completely worthless that it's better than before!! BAA, TJM, & YM just might possibly V. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark.gilmore Posted April 4, 2007 Share Posted April 4, 2007 OK u blokes. How much is Roper paying u,or did u get your sheets for free. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShiftyAl Posted April 5, 2007 Author Share Posted April 5, 2007 Ok guys....I thought I updated this weeks ago, but for some reason the post did not come up. I am a student and it's taken me a while to find the time to even look at my V11 again. In the meantime, the trusty old T3 has been getting my love. UPDATE: I pulled the pan and found exactly what I expected to find....... The oil filter was hanging on by only a thread or two! Problem found......and I'll never ignore another oil light again. The engine isn't locked up, but it certainly wasn't making fun noises when i shut it down. My friends (not guzzi owners) tried to convince me to put the filter back on, fill it up with oil and take off. I refused out of fear of only worsening the internal damage. Regardless.....I've been searching on the classifieds here and ebay in hopes of finding some low-mileage wrecked bike with a perfect engine for cheap. Fat chance! So....after I graduate in May I'll likely pull the engine out and take it apart. My friends also tried to convince me to attempt to replace/hone the jugs and put in new pistons. It seems to me that a complete teardown will likely be in order. Am I correct in that assumption? Thanks again, Alan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richard100t Posted April 5, 2007 Share Posted April 5, 2007 The first thing to do is to not worry about it until you get it apart. It wont do you any good, & you never know you may get out of it cheaper than you think. If it was still running when you shut it off theres a good chance that you may get off light. Keep an eye on ebay for aftermarket engine stuff. I seen some Mike Rich heads recently & now & then theres various other engine bits there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jrt Posted April 5, 2007 Share Posted April 5, 2007 Give the Haven boys a call at MPH cycles. They're close and will give you good advice. You will probably get off a lot lighter than you are thinking. I doubt you need to hone the cylinders, nor need a top end. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greg Field Posted April 5, 2007 Share Posted April 5, 2007 Al: All is not necessarily lost. A friend of mine whose bike's filter spun off last summer and was ridden for a bit was able to get his Cal 1100 back on the road for about $60 in parts. You might be able to do the same. Yes, it would be the right thing to do to tear it all down and inspect, but it seems that isn't in the cards. Remove the top and bottom sump halves. This gets you access to the crank throw and rods. Remove the rod bolts and caps. Push the rods up into the cylinders (you may have to remove the spark plugs to let some compression out) so yu have more room to work. Look at the crank throw. If it is not horribly blued, it may be easily fixed. Start with white scotchbrite and see if you can remove all the bearing smegma that's sticking to the crank's bearing surface. Once that stuff's all off, examine the throw for deep grooves and measure it if you can. Often, the bearing surface will still be in spec. If it's OK, replace the bearing shells with new ones (about $15 each at your local Guzzi dealer; get the 0106-type bearings, not the more expensive 3006 bearings that the parts book says you should get) and button it up. Put a hose clamp on a new filter and add oil. Beg, borrow or steal a mechaical oil pressure gauge you can temprarily plug into your bike. Fire up the bike and if the cold idle pressure is OK and you do not hear any obvious new knocks, try riding it and getting the oil hot while watching the pressure. On a tight bike, cold oil pressure at idle is often 65 psi or more and can easily exceed 75 psi when underway. Hot oil pressure should be 55 or so in steady state above 3,000 rpm or so. Yours may now be lower because of some wear, but if it's above 40 while hot and above 3,000 rpm, it's usable. Hot idle pressure should be 15 psi or higher. Good luck! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShiftyAl Posted April 13, 2007 Author Share Posted April 13, 2007 Look at the crank throw. If it is not horribly blued, it may be easily fixed. Start with white scotchbrite and see if you can remove all the bearing smegma that's sticking to the crank's bearing surface. Once that stuff's all off, examine the throw for deep grooves and measure it if you can. Often, the bearing surface will still be in spec. If it's OK, replace the bearing shells with new ones (about $15 each at your local Guzzi dealer; get the 0106-type bearings, not the more expensive 3006 bearings that the parts book says you should get) and button it up. Put a hose clamp on a new filter and add oil. Well...I've done as directed this evening. To my surprise it wasn't as chaotic underneath as I expected. The front big end bearing showed wear, but the crank itself showing no scoring whatsever! The back big-end bearing showed a bit worse. It didn't spin a bearing, but it did obviously get hot and it did blue the crank surface and the rod cap as well. The old finger nail test on the crank showed almost zero scoring, just some blueing in the center. Perhaps I should just take some good photos to get some opinions on here. As it stands I believe that I will purchase some bearings and press my luck. I mean......what do I have to lose other than another few grand!?!? Anyone care to sound off on this? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luhbo Posted April 13, 2007 Share Posted April 13, 2007 ..... Anyone care to sound off on this? If it was my bike i'd just ignore the blue and go on with it. Nevertheless a polishing of the big ends with very fine sanding cloth (don't know the enlish expression) won't make things worse. Just to make sure that no aluminium is left on the surface. Remember, the old Guzzis had no oil filter and all the debris that made it's way through the oil pipes was pressed into the bearings. They very seldom looked as imaculate as you would expect them to look. The whole crankshaft is so what of oversized. Guzziology writes of very bad looking crankshafts that turned out to be in perfect condition after the sanding paper treatment. BTW, to MAN lorry engines we gave the same treatment when they came in to get the engine repaired. And they had to be reliable after that for another 200.000 km As you wrote, what can you loose? The crankshaft, the real expensive part, won't get worse. Hubert Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pete roper Posted April 14, 2007 Share Posted April 14, 2007 I'll go with the other boys. If there is no scoring of the crank pin just dress it up with a length of 1200 wet'n'dry tape after pushing the rods and pistons up the bores. Wash thouroughly with something like contact cleaner or brake cleaner after polishing and you'll probably find most of the blue disappears! Put in new shells making sure that the inside of the rod and the cap are SCUPULOUSLY clean and DRY. Then coat the bearing faces and crankpin liberally in assembley lube before tightening the caps back on. Try turning the crank by hand to ensure it spins. If it does? Re-fit the oil munt and sump and fill ith oil, press button and pray! Plain bearings either work or they don't. If it doesn't seize up in the first 30 seconds it will probably go for another 200,000 Km!!!! Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShiftyAl Posted April 14, 2007 Author Share Posted April 14, 2007 I'll go with the other boys. If there is no scoring of the crank pin just dress it up with a length of 1200 wet'n'dry tape after pushing the rods and pistons up the bores. Wash thouroughly with something like contact cleaner or brake cleaner after polishing and you'll probably find most of the blue disappears! Put in new shells making sure that the inside of the rod and the cap are SCUPULOUSLY clean and DRY. Then coat the bearing faces and crankpin liberally in assembley lube before tightening the caps back on. Try turning the crank by hand to ensure it spins. If it does? Re-fit the oil munt and sump and fill ith oil, press button and pray! Plain bearings either work or they don't. If it doesn't seize up in the first 30 seconds it will probably go for another 200,000 Km!!!! Pete Excellent! So.....Roper, what's this windage-tray thing they say you make? Should I go with one of those while I have this thing apart? Thanks, Alan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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