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Transmission


Gini Fata

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The bike is a 2k V11sport with 14k miles on it. Lately, when coming to a stop, i find that the gear shifter jams, if I push up on it, it breaks free and then it will shift down to 1st. This only happens when I am at a stop, it works fine shifting down if I am moving. I made some adjustment on the linkage and it was better last night. Just was wondering if this has anything to do with the pawl spring and it is just warning me in advance?? Thanks Gini

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Guest ratchethack

Gini, FWIW, to my knowledge there haven't been any problems with shifter pawl springs on 2000 Sports. When pawl srping problems first started cropping up, I ordered one for a couple of dollars (was it $5?) just for "insurance", but never had any prob's, and of course, never used it. If I recall correctly, someone came up with a range of serial numbers potentially affected and the 2000's were outside that range. I don't know of any reports of 2000's that had the larger shift boss that causes binding and spring breakage.

 

When you say the gear shifter "jams", do you mean it fails to return to midpoint from the down position? :huh2:

 

If this is happening independent of any failure of the trans to respond to full up & down lever inputs, yet will resume normal return later, it's beyond me. But if it's failing to respond to inputs, it might benefit from adjustment of the eccentric adjuster.

 

If it's really "jamming" intermittently, it might be a bit of a concern worthy of further investigation. Many V11's, mine included, have experienced loosening of the linkage at the pinch-bolt on the trans shift input shaft and sloppy shifting as a result. But if you've already eliminated loose linkage as a potential problem, sorry -- I can't offer anything more on this. :huh2:

 

Maybe greater trans-shifting-savvy experience than mine (not too hard to imagine :blush: ) can shed more light on this. :luigi:

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Redline Shockproof Heavy should help.

Clean will adjusted linkage can help.

I find I blow downshifts if don't lift my foot after clicking down.

Lowering the shifter can help that.

Also, the adjuster under the acorn may need adjusting, but it is a little tricky to adjust properly, so try the other things first.

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Redline Shockproof Heavy should help.

Clean will adjusted linkage can help.

I find I blow downshifts if don't lift my foot after clicking down.

Lowering the shifter can help that.

Also, the adjuster under the acorn may need adjusting, but it is a little tricky to adjust properly, so try the other things first.

I do have redline in the transmission and it was better after an adjustment of the linkage last night. It only happens at a stop or when I am just about stopped. The gear box binds, like it doesn"t want to drop into the next lower gear, going up then back down frees it up. I am just wondering now if I am not being forcefull enough with my foot when gearing down. Like I said, when gearing down to a stop it works beautifully.

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My bike did the same thing. Turned out to be a complete lack of lube on on the bolt that runs through the shift lever. Ordering a new tub of grease seemed to be forgotten on the ass.line. Pulled the bolt, quick clean and some grease solved the problem. I later added a zerk to allow for non-disassembly lubing. :luigi:

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Zerk on the shifter . . . that is stellar! :thumbsup:

 

Gini, has the clutch fluid been bled? I did mine today after an embarrasing three years. It looked like vegetable broth coming out.

 

Why is it the clutch fluid gets so much worse than the brake fluids?

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Guest ratchethack

Why is it the clutch fluid gets so much worse than the brake fluids?

My clutch gets used about 10X as often as my brakes, but that's just an idea, and as always,

 

TJM & YMMV ;)

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My gearbox was doing this until lube of linkage and Redline lite...now I have an occasional occurence between 3-2 downshifts, which I attribute to lazy foot and not paying attention. I am going to revisit the through-bolt lube, however, to see if it will completely eradicate the problem. k

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Ditto on the dragging clutch. Installed my Pazzo's on Saturday and then went on a long club ride. Noticed both that my clutch was dragging a bit and that suddenly I was having trouble finding neutral and changing gears when at a stop.

 

Tonight I'll be doing some adjustments.

 

Rj

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Ditto on the dragging clutch. Installed my Pazzo's on Saturday and then went on a long club ride. Noticed both that my clutch was dragging a bit and that suddenly I was having trouble finding neutral and changing gears when at a stop.

 

Tonight I'll be doing some adjustments.

 

Rj

I did all of the above and went for a ride yesterday. There is a noticable improvement but it did bind on me once, on a slight upgrade. I am just afraid that someday it won't unbind.

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I did all of the above and went for a ride yesterday. There is a noticable improvement but it did bind on me once, on a slight upgrade. I am just afraid that someday it won't unbind.

 

If I were you I'd just ride it for a while longer and see if it gets better or worse. If it's still binding after 1000 miles or so you might want to pull the shifter plate off and see if you can figure out whats wrong. That would be a good time to check the shifter spring and boss too.

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If I were you I'd just ride it for a while longer and see if it gets better or worse. If it's still binding after 1000 miles or so you might want to pull the shifter plate off and see if you can figure out whats wrong. That would be a good time to check the shifter spring and boss too.

Sounds like a good idea.

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Gini, has the clutch fluid been bled? I did mine today after an embarrasing three years. It looked like vegetable broth coming out.

 

Why is it the clutch fluid gets so much worse than the brake fluids?

 

Better than beef broth! The clutch fluid moves more than the brake fluid. On the squeeze, the fluid in the clutch master drops more than the brake fluid. With that drop, air and the accompanying moisture are drawn into the reservoir, and pushed back out on the release. It is not a lot but this "breathing" of the reservoir is enough to introduce more moisture into the fluid than on a braking set up. It is moisture that darkens the fluid. I generally change mine annually which may be overkill with our shortened riding season. Color of the fluid is a good indicator, anything darker than caramel should be changed.

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