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Surprise Hardware in Oil Pan


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I dropped the oil pan on my 2003 LeMans (for the first time, ever) and discovered a loose socket bolt and washer sunk at the bottom of the pan. I believe it's an M4 x 25, same diameter as the oil pan bolts, but a little longer, definitely not one of them. Any notion where it might have come from? I'm sure I didn't drop it in there...

 

Thanks and happy New Year,

 

Brian

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Any notion where it might have come from? I'm sure I didn't drop it in there...

 

Thanks and happy New Year,

 

Brian

good old Santa :xmas:

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good old Santa :xmas:

:lol: very funny <_>

But seriously, there are a bunch of M6 bolts that hold the sump to the engine case.

It is probably an M6, not an M4.

Here is a photo by Greg Santa Field from his installation of a MotoModa shloppage shleet.

PICT0006-5.jpg

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I'm going to drop my oilpan for the first time this spring. I hope santa didn't leave me something in there. I'm also going to change out my valve cover gaskets as I have a leaky one, anyone remember the guy that makes'em?? I know there is a link around here somewhere. Might need a new sump gasket as well.

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I'm going to drop my oilpan for the first time this spring. I hope santa didn't leave me something in there. I'm also going to change out my valve cover gaskets as I have a leaky one, anyone remember the guy that makes'em?? I know there is a link around here somewhere. Might need a new sump gasket as well.

This guy makes the silicone ones. http://www.realgaskets.com/ The part number for the square head gasket is mg3960. I don't think he has any gaskets for the wide sump oil pan.

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anyone remember the guy that makes'em?? I know there is a link around here somewhere. Might need a new sump gasket as well.

Try this link

This guy makes evrything and he probably has some free time just around now.

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It never occurred to me to snug up the bolts visible when the sump is off. I'll have to put that on my list of things to do . . . :luigi:

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Guest Nogbad

Maybe I will remove and replace with loctite all the strategically vital bolts such as those retaining the oil pump etc next time I drop the pan. This thread loosening virus seems to be spreading.

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Maybe I will remove and replace with loctite all the strategically vital bolts such as those retaining the oil pump etc next time I drop the pan. This thread loosening virus seems to be spreading.

 

It is not so easy to clean the tapped holes well enough for Loctite to be effective. Why not Schnorr washers?

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Guest ratchethack
It is not so easy to clean the tapped holes well enough for Loctite to be effective. Why not Schnorr washers?

It's about as easy and effective as it gets if you shoot each blind hole with Brakleen and follow this up with a blast of compressed air before applying threadlocker on solvent-cleaned bolt threads.

 

If you don't have compressed air, this isn't much of a concern with downward-facing, blind, threaded holes. Brakleen leaves no residue when allowed to air dry. The Brakleen/air blast/threadlock routine is generally wot I do with all blind holes into engine cases. It's wot my Guzzi Pal and I did in our last Guzzi clinic over a year ago in the holes that secure the oil pressure relief valve assembly when we installed Roper plates. B)

. . .anyone know where to get a sump gasket or do you think my stocker will be fine? anyone have problems with their old one when dropping the pan?

DeBen, I've probably recycled my original sump gasket a half dozen times with no loss of effectiveness. IMHO, it's always good home shop practice to have one of these on hand, along with a set of valve cover gaskets in spares stock before service, just in case. How many days riding d'you figure you'd lose if the old gasket comes off in pieces and you have to go find one, and/or order one?? There are many who somehow consider this sacrilege :huh2: , but I always clean and degrease the old gasket thoroughly with lacquer thinner before applying an ULTRA-THIN wipe on both sides of GE Silicone II Sealant (just enough to make it shiny) for a weep-free, seep-free, clean-as-a-whistle lower motor, but that's just me. ^_^

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DeBen, I've probably recycled my original sump gasket a half dozen times with no loss of effectiveness. IMHO, it's always good home shop practice to have one of these on hand, along with a set of valve cover gaskets in spares stock before service, just in case you need it. How many days riding d'you figure you'd lose if the old gasket comes off in pieces and you have to go find one, and/or order one?? I always clean and degrease the old gasket thoroughly with lacquer thinner before applying an ULTRA-THIN wipe on both sides of GE Silicone II Sealant (just enough to make it shiny) for a weep-free, seep-free, clean-as-a-whistle lower motor, but that's just me. ^_^

 

:stupid:

Even now when the outside temp is 16F and the streets are snowy. If I can find time to do a job, I want to have everything on hand to finish it. I won't lose any riding days this time of year if I'm waiting for parts but I don't know when the next time I'll get to spend some "quality time" turning various fasteners on one of my bikes.

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It's about as easy and effective as it gets if you shoot each blind hole with Brakleen and follow this up with a blast of compressed air before applying threadlocker on solvent-cleaned bolt threads.

 

If you don't have compressed air, this isn't much of a concern with downward-facing, blind, threaded holes. Brakleen leaves no residue when allowed to air dry. The Brakleen/air blast/threadlock routine is generally wot I do with all blind holes into engine cases. It's wot my Guzzi Pal and I did in our last Guzzi clinic over a year ago in the holes that secure the oil pressure relief valve assembly when we installed Roper plates. B)

 

So do you see any problem with simply using Schnorr washers? I have had good luck with them, a lot quicker procedure and you don't have to deal with the friction all the way out when removing.

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