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Another Hard Starter!


mznyc

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Hi Guys,seems like the lectrical problems are a plauge amongst many of us recently.Or are our rides showing they're age now that they're 4-8 years old! :rolleyes:

Recently me Scura has been slow to start,a few slooow rotations of the starter and then she fires.Went out a couple of weeks ago with a friend ,with few stops and mostly back roads,above 3k rpms and last few stops I noticed her slowly turning over then kicking in.

Sat for a week on BT and she fired right up,I let her warm up for a few minutes and shut her down,then tried to re-start and got the dreaded click,click.click.

So I'm believing that the battery is toast.I think it is the second one on the bike,not sure as I'm second owner.

Got 13v @ batt-off

12.8 @ idle

14.2-6 @ 3k last digit is broken on my LCD display of DDM.

Any other test that could check regulator/alt,as it seems like a few have gone south recently.If so could you talk me through them as shop manual is a little foggy for my feeble mind to understand.

Starter solenoid is less that a couple K miles on it.Original starter

Anybody got a better price on a Hawker Od than $120.00 delivered,the best I found on the web.

Thanks,

Michael

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Guest frankdugo

take a voltage reading right after a ride of 4mi or more{strait riding,no stop &go]the battery should have at least 12.6 volts,next a reading at least 12 hr later. in either case ---if the battery does not have at least 12.6 v,it's on its way out.i've heard of the original spark batteries lasting up to 8 yrs but 4-6 seems to be the average.there was a post on the wg site where they put.5 cc distilled water[a few drops] & extended life

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The first thing you want to do is to check ALL connections at the battery positive and negative terminals, the starter terminal and the ground cable. If you can install a shakeproof (star) washer on the ground cable. Not long ago I spent a week looking for the best price on a battery just to find a LOOSE positive cable bolt !

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Thanks for the input guys.

Gstallons,I'll give all the connections a looksee again.But with the battery starting fine after sitting on charger and then dead on second try,sounds like a weak battery that won't hold a charge.Did you have the same symptoms as me?Since I replaced starter solenoid last year it's possible that one of those connections came loose.

Can anybody talk me through checking alt and reg?

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When you say "second try", how much time between the first and second attempt?

The best battery test I have ever developed on automobiles is to turn on the headlamps for 10 mins. then try to start the vehicle. If the battery is weak, it will not crank the car or it wiil crank slowly.

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When you say "second try", how much time between the first and second attempt?

The best battery test I have ever developed on automobiles is to turn on the headlamps for 10 mins. then try to start the vehicle. If the battery is weak, it will not crank the car or it wiil crank slowly.

More than a few seconds,less than a minute.

 

Consider also the possibility that your starter could be showing the first signs of failure.

Would the starter kill the battery in one try, if it was bad?Showed,hard to tell because it's only for a fraction of a second, about 10v when starter is turning over.Then goes back to @ 12.6v.

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9.6v or below is not good starting voltage. When the starting motor rpm drops too much, the motor starts becoming a "short". EMF, CEMF,etc... If the headlamp remains bright during this test the battery is okay.

p.s. the headlamp will go out during cranking.

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Consider also the possibility that your starter could be showing the first signs of failure.

[/quote

 

If after cleaning all the battery connectors and replacing the battery you still are having problems, I'd next look at the starter. I had to replace mine, as it was drawing excessive current due to unusually high internal resistance. My bike's symptoms were similar to yours. I don't know how much current the starter should normally draw on start up, but bet that someone here does. Good Luck!

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Are there no members or riders living near you that would swap batteries (easiest) or starting motors to test for the fault?

p.s. When you disconnect the starter, remove the neg. lead from the batery so you won't have sparks fly.

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Sure hope it's not the starter.!$15,000 2002 dollars for a bike that doesn't get ridden in rain and only 16k on it ,is unacceptable for a failure :angry: .But I'll hold out hope it's a battery and/or a connection :wub: . Oh if someone chimes in on checking reg/alt I'll hopefully eliminate those. :homer:

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Don't think is the starter. Have you thought at the regulator?

Ones I have bought a regulator in the USA for less of money. I think no more than 100 USD. (sorry but for us European is American market now very cheap he-he-he...)

Don't go on at that way with the V11, you might f u c k up more things in the electrical system at this way.

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