richard100t Posted April 13, 2009 Share Posted April 13, 2009 When I'm riding my bike it usually goes through the gears smoothly, no problems. Sometimes when I pull to a stop its hard to get it into or out of first to nuetral. If I sit at the light with the clutch lever pulled in the bike will want to slightly roll forward. I've been adjusting the knob thing on the lever & it will work fine again for a little while & then it will do the same thing again. It will go from smooth clutch action to the grabby notchy feeling, back to smooth again for no noticeable reason. Is this a clutch problem or a problem with the lever or cables needing lubed? If its the cable needing lubed, is wd40 ok? TIA Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doug m Posted April 13, 2009 Share Posted April 13, 2009 The clutch is hydraulic ,so no cables involved. First thing ,check the clutch reservoir to make sure the level is up to where it should be.(under seat) it might be a good time to also bleed the clutch in case there is any air in the line. there are some good how to's in the forum.If that doesn't help then you probably have some clutch issues..plates or whatever. Did you sell your clutch kit you had in the classifieds? regards, and hope you sort it out! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richard100t Posted April 13, 2009 Author Share Posted April 13, 2009 Ok today I took the clutch lever off & took the steel pin out of the plunger type thing. Next I sprayed some wd40 in there just to clean out any gunk. Next thing I notice a small round black piece of plastic is lying on the floor & I dont know where it came from! I didnt think it came from behind the steel pin that was in the rubber plunger, but I thought what the hell. I put the plastic spacer thing in the rubber plunger thing, then put the steel pin back in & put the lever back on. Now I dont have to pull the lever all the way in to get the clutch to stop rattling & change gears. It seems to work a whole lot better & doesnt stick in first gear or roll forward with the clutch pulled in anymore. I have only went around the block 3 times because its raining & I wanted to consult with the experts in here about what I've done. Did I do the right thing here? It seems to me like the clutch is fine but was out of adjustment at the lever. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richard100t Posted April 13, 2009 Author Share Posted April 13, 2009 Oh btw I do still have the clutch kit. I'm asking $450 but make me an offer if you really need it That is if I dont need it, but I'm thinking I may have cured the problem Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greg Field Posted April 13, 2009 Share Posted April 13, 2009 The plastic thing is likely the little actuator for the clutch switch. It sounds to me as if the splines on the trans input hub are worn. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richard100t Posted April 13, 2009 Author Share Posted April 13, 2009 The plastic thing is likely the little actuator for the clutch switch. It sounds to me as if the splines on the trans input hub are worn.If the plastc thing is the actuator for the clutch switch did I put it in the right place? This may sound like a silly question but is there any relatively easy way of having a look at the clutch to check for wear? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greg Field Posted April 14, 2009 Share Posted April 14, 2009 Yours is a single-plate clutch. I do not know of a means of externally measuring for wear. You can try lubing the input hub. Pull the starter, and you can sort of get at the back of the hub and try to get some lube to the splines. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richard100t Posted April 14, 2009 Author Share Posted April 14, 2009 Yours is a single-plate clutch. I do not know of a means of externally measuring for wear. You can try lubing the input hub. Pull the starter, and you can sort of get at the back of the hub and try to get some lube to the splines. I'll definitely do that as preventive maintenance. I'm hoping that little plastic thing was just out of alignment somehow & all is now well. The clutch lever works very differently now. Before the clutch wouldnt engage until the lever was pulled all the way in. Now it engages completely at about halfway in. I really havent done more than the 3 times around the block because of the rain & cold. However I do have my fingers crossed. I dont ride the clutch hard, no burnouts or anything & the bike just turned 31k miles so it shouldnt be worn out yet. I will keep you updated when I can get it out for a real ride. If someone can take a peek at their lever assembly & let me know for sure where that little plastic thing belongs I'd appreciate it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest ratchethack Posted April 14, 2009 Share Posted April 14, 2009 Richard, it looks to me like you've put the little black "puck" that acuates the clutch microswitch behind the clutch rod boot. This is incorrect, and you need to get it back out of there before you do some damage. It belongs in the little recess that you can see with the clutch lever out, that's next to the inline bore of the clutch master cylinder. When it's installed properly, you can hear the faint make-and-brake of the contacts in the microswitch when you pull in and release the clutch lever. Hope this helps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baldini Posted April 14, 2009 Share Posted April 14, 2009 ...clutch lever works very differently now. Before the clutch wouldnt engage until the lever was pulled all the way in. Now it engages completely at about halfway in. I really havent done more than the 3 times around the block because of the rain & cold.However I do have my fingers crossed. I dont ride the clutch hard, no burnouts or anything & the bike just turned 31k miles so it shouldnt be worn out yet.... A bit confused over terminology...Sorry if I misunderstand you, but the clutch would normally be engaged (ie causing engine to drive transmission) when handlebar lever is fully released. Clutch disengages when lever is pulled in. Sounds like your clutch is dragging (ie not fully disengaging). A slipping clutch is when engine revs rise without corresponding drive at transmission/wheel. Sounds like you incorrectly put this little plastic bit between clutch lever & piston, advancing point where lever acts on piston. If clutch seems to work fine like that then it points to a hydraulic issue I think rather than a problem with clutch itself. But if it's still notchy & dragging then perhaps splines or other mechanical wear, in which case you'll have to take it apart to check. My friction plate (Scura) seemed pretty good at 20k miles. I don't know wear limit on these or if they're same on RM. Which clutch do you have spare - an RM single plate? As a matter of interest, what is the thickness of the new friction plate on that? KB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richard100t Posted April 14, 2009 Author Share Posted April 14, 2009 A bit confused over terminology...Sorry if I misunderstand you, but the clutch would normally be engaged (ie causing engine to drive transmission) when handlebar lever is fully released. Clutch disengages when lever is pulled in. Sounds like your clutch is dragging (ie not fully disengaging). A slipping clutch is when engine revs rise without corresponding drive at transmission/wheel.Sounds like you incorrectly put this little plastic bit between clutch lever & piston, advancing point where lever acts on piston. If clutch seems to work fine like that then it points to a hydraulic issue I think rather than a problem with clutch itself. But if it's still notchy & dragging then perhaps splines or other mechanical wear, in which case you'll have to take it apart to check. My friction plate (Scura) seemed pretty good at 20k miles. I don't know wear limit on these or if they're same on RM. Which clutch do you have spare - an RM single plate? As a matter of interest, what is the thickness of the new friction plate on that? KB I do have a spare single plate kit. The friction plate is about a 1/4 inch thick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richard100t Posted April 14, 2009 Author Share Posted April 14, 2009 Ok now I have the plastic spacer back in its proper place. Unfortunately the metal cylinder that I had slid it in had come out while I was trying to coax the spacer out. Now as many of you know I have air in my clutch line <_ i no good at bleeding brake lines so sure that suck with the clutch line too. my question is will have to replace rubber boot metal cylinder goes into it slid back in easily enough now its more fluid coming out.> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richard100t Posted April 14, 2009 Author Share Posted April 14, 2009 Now I'm trying to bleed the clutch. When I pull the lever in I hear pfft sound that is coming from around the master cylinder area. is a leak likely or is this sound normal? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tracey Posted April 14, 2009 Share Posted April 14, 2009 Richard: The one thing I've got some practice at is bleeding the clutch system... I'll be glad to help, and you know how to find me! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richard100t Posted April 15, 2009 Author Share Posted April 15, 2009 Yeah the one thing that I seem to have no talent with is bleeding brake lines. I'll just have to get some help on this one. I'll keep everyone updated on what the original problem was with my clutch or the master cylinder or who knows. Unfortunately it may be a few days before I get the line bled. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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