Jump to content

Lemans crash repair


Guest max

Recommended Posts

The insurance adjusted looked at the Lemans and came up with a list of all the parts to replace. The mechanic at the shop we met at pulled the front wheel off the ground and spun the wheel and there was too much brake drag. I’m not sure what is normal for 300 miles and very little hard braking in that time. A hard spin on the tire gives about one complete revolution. The mechanic swears the lower triple clamp is bent. I don’t think it is from a low side that just caused the lower fork leg to slid on the pavement. The right handlebar is bent slightly back and up. The mechanic keeps wanting to put the handlebars straight and then look at the front tire and point out that it is turned a little to one side. Then he admits the handlebar is bent a little. Well, duh, if you turn the bars to where they look straight and one is bent, where the hell do you think the front wheel is going to point? The insurance guy says he will come look again after they pull everything apart and see something bent. Well my problem with that is I don’t trust the shop now. They are not using simple logic to diagnose. I want to do all the work myself, and save the labor money the insurance gives me. They are paying to replace the lower fork leg, and it is only scratched up. I want to remove both lower legs and get them powdercoated red.

 

What is involved in removing the lower legs?

 

What will cause the brakes to drag? I pulled the calipers off and the wheel and rotors look perfect. I can see no runout at all on either. The pads look good and both seem to drag the same amount when I put one only on at a time. I suspect the pistons are tight and not returning much. Is that a possibility?

 

If I let the shop replace the lower triple clamp and bearing like the insist on and the brakes still drag, will they be obligated to fix the brakes under warranty? That is what they claim is making them drag.

 

I am thinking about having the forks revalved if I have to disassemble them to remove the lower legs myself or if I decide to let the shop replace the lower triple clamp.

 

Looking at the lower triple clamp, it looks like a very stout unit. I can’t imagine it getting bent from a fairly low speed slide.

 

Thanks for any suggestions and ideas.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

"Well my problem with that is I don’t trust the shop now. They are not using simple logic to diagnose. I want to do all the work myself, and save the labor money the insurance gives me. "

 

I'll bet. I wouldn't trust the shop at this point either. The only real way to see whether the triple clamp is bent is to take it off the bike, and put it on a true, flat surface. That will tell you.

My understanding is that the insurance should assess damage, cut YOU a check, and then they are out of it. What you do with that check is up to you. The only way I can see them being involved is if they hold a lien on the bike. So, why not let the mechanic go ahead and include a new lower clamp in the estimate? That way, if it's bent, you get a new one and if not, you keep the cash.

 

"What will cause the brakes to drag?"

 

Bad bearings? binding pads? you could check this by taking off the calipers and spinning the wheel, or just loosening (venting) the brake system.

 

Good luck,

Jason

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The wheel spins free with both calipers off.

 

You are correct, the insurance will cut me a check, but not for the amount to include the lower triple clamp, but they will come back and look when the shop pulls it apart and sees it is bent, they will pay additional. I am sure the clamp is ok, but the shop insists it is bent based on faulty logic, so if I say ok pull it aopart, if they see no damage, then I am paying labor for nothing, plus have the additional down time, plus it will probably not be put back together as well as from factory if this mechanic is as lame as I suspect based on how he diagnoses a crooked wheel by aligning a bent handlebar. I am paranoid. I guess I can get the shop to agree that if they are wrong on the triple clamp, they don't charge me labor, and they fix whatever is causing the brakes to drag under warantee if they maintain the bent triple clamp is the problem and it turns out not to be.

 

what about removing the lower fork leg? From the bottom or do I have to disassemble from top?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My advice is take the $ and do the repairs over the winter. This way you will not have to put up with Dealer/MGNA BS that the parts are on order.

 

This way you can order Ohlins front end stuff, etc. and upgrade!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I took apart a v11 with a realy bent upper leg, I don't have the idea that the triple is bent. When you take of one brake caliper at a time, you see where it hurts. Other way to test if it's the calipers or the clamp: take the bolts ogf the calipers, now brake hard with the calipers on the disks, when you realease the lever, the pads should come off.

Dismounting the forks is the best way to check if legs are bent. But you have to know where to look, and the mechanic maybe lacks that:-).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sorry to hear about your shop's not being the most critical thinker :rolleyes: ... I know how frustrating that can be <_>

 

 

From the information you've provided in regard to wheel/brake drag, I would guess that one caliper(probably the one that you low-sided onto) is bent, and/or the mounting ear on the fork lower is bent. The caliper on that side may have taken a good hit when you went down.

 

I would suspect that the lower fork caliper mounting ear is what is bent, as that's more likely than the caliper itself being damaged :huh2:

 

This is all a guess of course, but that's my thinking.

 

Who knows on the lower triple being bent, but based on your description I don't think that is likely the issue. It could be bent, but I'd be surprised as the forks would probably bend/deflect well before the triple itself could twist. Who knows though, stranger things have happened.

 

Good luck and let us know though :thumbsup:

 

al

 

 

P.S.

BTW, Max if you are buying Greg's front fairing, lemme know what's up with the headlight. It doesn't sound like you need a headlight, and I think he was selling the fairing/headlight all in one bundle.... and I want another LeMans headlight assembly/harness/bucket for a future project.

 

P.P.S.

 

...on taking the lower forks off for painting, first I'd recommend checking into hard anodizing, not powder/liquid coat(paint). The black LeMans forks are anondized, and it's a much more durable finish than paint(which is in the end all powder coat is). The forks take a lot of beating out front like that, and I suspect that painted legs will get knicked up pretty quickly.

 

Regarding the difficulty of removing the legs... well, they're cartridge forks, so unless you have the tools and experience, it's something slightly beyond what I'd recommend for the shade-tree garage mechanic. A good suspension shop however would probably take them apart for you for a hundred bucks or so. You could even get them revalved and sprung while you are at it for $300-400 total.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If the bike low sided on the right (?) and bent the right bar, what's the chance the lever has rammed the master cylinder giving the drag?

 

On the estimate I think you ought to let the shop put all the parts it can justify on the estimate. Then source parts through the board and wrench it yourself, ( it's working for me). :luigi::luigi::luigi:

 

The Asphalt Rub-Club

Link to comment
Share on other sites

... and I want another LeMans headlight assembly/harness/bucket for a future project.

Al, how large is your garage anyway? :D Almost everyday I read your posts where you're interested in spare parts. One could think MGNA gets a competitor who CAN deliver! Is that your future project, perhaps?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

:lol: .... yeah yeah.... well, it's actually quite a big garage, but it's full of crap right now :P

 

 

But seriously, I usually sell off parts as fast as I acquire new ones. You want to talk about crowded garages with lots of spare parts... you should see Mike Stewart's with 4 bikes, and various bits, wheels, and body pieces lying about ^_^

 

al

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Unbelievable, gave my dealer a list of all the parts I wanted him to order from MG Saturday and he calls me today and said they are ALL here. Right side fairing, MG performance Titanium exhaust kit, carbon front fender, mirror, turn signal, front axle, and spark plug boot. I ordered Fast By Ferracci fender eliminator, and air breather kit yesterday, so maybe they will be here soon. Ordered a set of black anodized head fin guards that should be here soon too. Now I just need to have dealer pull front forks apart and inspect and fix brake drag, have lower legs powder coated red while it is apart and I’ll be set. Replacing the bar end with a throttlemeister that is already here, repainting the front brake lever, and everything back to snuff with added improvement of performance exhaust for less than my insurance check.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Unbelievable, gave my dealer a list of all the parts I wanted him to order from MG Saturday and he calls me today and said they are ALL here.

 

He must have had most of them on hand already, MGNA is not capable of that kind of response. I ordered exactly one part for my wrecked V11 Sport - a silver front fender. 10 days later it arrived. The back section was painted and the front section was unpainted. So it has to go back and this all starts all over again.

 

I've had the V11 Sport running for two days now. It runs fine, but I need to get my PCIII back from Joe. Al sold me his LeMans forks and after measuring Joe's V11 Sport I know why mine now leans so far over on the sidestand. LeMans forks are about 20mm longer and I need to slide mine up in the triple tree. Handles kind of funny too. Floppy. Too tall I guess. I also borrowed a LeMans fender from Joe, so now the bike has black forks and a black fender and I really don't like the looks. Sooooo.......

 

What's the best way to remove black anodizing, chemically or really fine sandpaper (crocus cloth)? The alternative is find another set of forks and sell these.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...