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V11 suspension setup


rossi46

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I had my Cafe Sport done today by a professional suspension tuner at a clinic at ProItalia. Just judging by the short ride I went on afterwards it felt like a different bike (in a good way). Tomorrow I'll ride up in the local mountains with some friends, and I'm really looking forward to it. I had the same done to my Speed Triple after riding it stock for about six months, and the difference was amazing. I vote for having a pro do it as well. Cost me $40 and it was money well spent IMO.

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I had my Cafe Sport done today by a professional suspension tuner at a clinic at ProItalia. Just judging by the short ride I went on afterwards it felt like a different bike (in a good way). Tomorrow I'll ride up in the local mountains with some friends, and I'm really looking forward to it. I had the same done to my Speed Triple after riding it stock for about six months, and the difference was amazing. I vote for having a pro do it as well. Cost me $40 and it was money well spent IMO.

Wow. Forty dollars? I'd sure be interested in what the pro could do for you for forty bucks. Quite a bargain.

 

Have a great ride and get back to us on your impressions. Suspension tuning is one of the three things that bring these bikes to the Ethereal Plane. Number Two is electrical and the third is a deep, dark secret.:ninja:

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Wow. Forty dollars? I'd sure be interested in what the pro could do for you for forty bucks. Quite a bargain.

 

Have a great ride and get back to us on your impressions. Suspension tuning is one of the three things that bring these bikes to the Ethereal Plane. Number Two is electrical and the third is a deep, dark secret.:ninja:

 

I'll tell you my impressions, but you'll have to let me have your GB500 in exchange. Always liked those bikes. Actually, the springing was okay for my size. He was recommending changing out the springs both front and back to a few people before me, but I was lucky. He set the sag, fiddled with preload, rebound and compression, made sure the bike was properly balanced. Took about 20-30 minutes. The rear wasn't too far off, but the front was much too soft, but now they're both good.

When I had the Speed Triple done it was only $25. Oh well, inflation.

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When I had the Speed Triple done it was only $25. Oh well, inflation.

 

Well, inflation & the fact that this time you went to Pro Italia. Good shop, but there's a reason their nickname is "Pry It Outta Ya!" :grin:

 

It's where the snooty Duc-tards prefer to shop, after all... Charge what the market will bear! ;)

 

At least they should remain with us a long time [not saying they'll keep the Guzzi model line on the sales floor, just that they'll stay in business as a motorcycle shop of some sort or other...] :thumbsup:

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I presume your man cut new spacers for the forks (he added some millimeters?) and cranked your rear preload up a bit as well. What do your sag numbers look like now?

 

Mmmm, that GB, it's a little sweety. Soon-to-be-vintage, too!

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Bike felt good, a little more planted in the turns, a bit stiffer than before, and soaked up bumps well. But y'know, it didn't really feel all that bad prior to the new setup, so I'm thinking that not too much was changed. I don't recall the front sag, but the rear was 34.5. When I got back I checked the zip tie I put on the forks and I was using most of the travel, so turned up the front compression one click on each side. We'll see how it is next weekend.

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Bike felt good, a little more planted in the turns, a bit stiffer than before, and soaked up bumps well. But y'know, it didn't really feel all that bad prior to the new setup, so I'm thinking that not too much was changed. I don't recall the front sag, but the rear was 34.5. When I got back I checked the zip tie I put on the forks and I was using most of the travel, so turned up the front compression one click on each side. We'll see how it is next weekend.

 

Still sounds like some stiffer fork springs would be good medicine. More damping won't change the sag or the dive. Check that front sag (it's easy with the zip tie). If it's more than 38-40mm, new springs are the answer.

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I asked about the springs, and Randy told me the front spring is borderline good, that it doesn't really need changing at the moment unless I really have a desire to put in a stiffer spring. While I don't recall the front sag number, I do recall it being within spec. The bike really did feel okay in my 70 or so miles in the mountains, but I'll see if the extra click makes the difference in dive. It might've been a stretch of about 100 yards of extremely bumpy road that I had to traverse. Next week I'll push the zip tie up after going over those bumps. I generally ride my Speed Triple on those roads, and I've always liked the way it handles. The Guzzi is just different, and I have to acclimate myself to it. I must say the MG does handle about 100 times better than my CB400F even though it weighs about a ton more!

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Still sounds like some stiffer fork springs would be good medicine. More damping won't change the sag or the dive. Check that front sag (it's easy with the zip tie). If it's more than 38-40mm, new springs are the answer.

Forgive my ignorance, but should sag be measured stationary [i.e. just sitting on the bike] or the maximum slider travel during a road trip?

 

Andy.

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Forgive my ignorance, but should sag be measured stationary [i.e. just sitting on the bike] or the maximum slider travel during a road trip?

 

Andy.

 

Hi Andy

have a look at this as it gives a good explanation of setting the sag

http://www.moto-raci...ensionSetup.htm

 

getting my forks back from Maxtons next week along with a new rear shock, once i've fitted them i'll be taking the bike back to them just to make sure everything is A OK

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Hi Andy

have a look at this as it gives a good explanation of setting the sag

http://www.moto-raci...ensionSetup.htm

 

getting my forks back from Maxtons next week along with a new rear shock, once i've fitted them i'll be taking the bike back to them just to make sure everything is A OK

That is not a bad beginners guide, but there is an error in the part about sag vs spring rate.

"Once you have set your rider sag as close as possible to 30-40 mm, next check your static sag. If you have more than 10mm then you may need stiffer springs. If however, if your static sag is less than 5mm or you have no static sag then your springs may be too hard for your weight. "

Both scenarios say your springs are too stiff. It should say if you have too much static sag then you need softer springs. If you do not have enough then you need stiffer springs.

"Rider" sag is also called "race" sag.

Also worth pointing out is that preload does not effect spring rate unless you have progressive springs. Adding or subtracting preload with normal straight rate springs does not change the "softness" of the spring.

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That is not a bad beginners guide, but there is an error in the part about sag vs spring rate.

"Once you have set your rider sag as close as possible to 30-40 mm, next check your static sag. If you have more than 10mm then you may need stiffer springs. If however, if your static sag is less than 5mm or you have no static sag then your springs may be too hard for your weight. "

Both scenarios say your springs are too stiff. It should say if you have too much static sag then you need softer springs. If you do not have enough then you need stiffer springs.

"Rider" sag is also called "race" sag.

Also worth pointing out is that preload does not effect spring rate unless you have progressive springs. Adding or subtracting preload with normal straight rate springs does not change the "softness" of the spring.

So, you say that if my bike drops too much, I should change to SOFTER? Not in my lifetime, not!

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So, you say that if my bike drops too much, I should change to SOFTER? Not in my lifetime, not!

No, that is not what I said. I said that when checking you free sag (how much the bike sags without the rider on board), after you have set your race sag (how much the bike sags WITH the rider on board), that if you have too much free sag then you need softer springs. This is telling you that in order to get you race sag where you wanted it you had to back off your preload too much because your springs are too stiff. If you don't have enough free sag that is saying you had to add too much preload to get the race sag where you wanted it because your springs are too soft.

I hope this is clearer to you.

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I hope this is clearer to you.

 

Much! Didn't make any sense the 1st time thru... ;)

 

Still, I wish you wouldn't use the term "race sag." You've got unladen sag & laden sag: no racing involved. But that's just me! :nerd:

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Hi Andy

have a look at this as it gives a good explanation of setting the sag

http://www.moto-raci...ensionSetup.htm

 

getting my forks back from Maxtons next week along with a new rear shock, once i've fitted them i'll be taking the bike back to them just to make sure everything is A OK

Many thanks for the info.it's been a great help.I certainly understand far more now than I did before.I'll just have to put into practice now.

I haven't had my forks set up by anyone yet as I bought a set of Ohlins from a dealer and am still deciding which bike to fit them to.I was intending to put them on the LeMan as thats the one I'm messing about with the engine tuning on, but then got to thinking that I'm sure if correctly set up the Marzo. forks would be equally as good as the ohlins. I came to this conclusion by ogling the new MV Agusta's at my local dealer when I noticed them all fitted with Marzo's.

I can then put the ohlins on the Rosso Mandello- I thought the gold colour would best suit the R.M's paint scheme{as well as adding to the handling of course}

Anyone got any thoughts vis Marzo against Ohlin?

 

Andy.

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