pawl arm stop screw adjustment

[Qman da hue man]

Just replaced my second pawl arm spring. Was supposed to be a new and improved one. Got about 10K from it. Now I'm having problems with the downshifting. It seems a little "hard" and sometimes when I go down to 4th it will at first seem to miss 4th and then with a great grinding noise and tire squeal will drop into gear. Does anyone know if this might have anything to do with the eccentric stop screw adjustment. I don't know how, but I may have unknowingly moved it during surgery. What is the procedure for the adjustment of this eccentric stop screw? I can't find anything about it anywhere. Thanks Guzzists

[mznyc]

Hi QMan,

Have had notchy shifting since I've owned mine,pawl spring was replaced by previous owner but have similar symptoms as you.One thing I would recommend is pull in clutch and upshift if you miss a gear so you don't lock up.Here's some links to threads addressing shifting/pawl spring issues,

 

http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=15638

http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=14882&st=0

http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=14993&st=0&p=162138&hl=transmission&fromsearch=1entry162138

 

I'll be doing mine soon,have to order Redline shockproof then open her up.Keep us posted on your progress,...

[docc]

There is a very old thread on this. I'll have to look for it when the sun goes down. But, from (my failing) memory:

 

The eccentric adjusts the throw evenly between up and down. It is easiest to center with the cover off since you can visually inspect the throw. It can, however, be tweaked on the bike.

 

The adjuster is a three piece affair. The acorn nut is a cover and can be removed to access the adjuster itself. There is a slotted shaft and a lock nut. Note (as in write down or draw)the position of the slot ("zero") and release the lock nut while holding the shaft with a screw driver. It's right fiddly to get to and I found using a 3/8 drive "crow's foot" 19mm open end a good help.

 

Rotate the screw slot 1/8 turn (probably counterclockwise to improve downshift) and lock up, replace on the cap and go for a test ride. A little better? Go another 1/8. A little worse? Go back to zero and 1/8 the other direction. DON'T FORGET YOUR ZERO!

 

That said, we fiddled with these a lot back in the days when the recall was impending and never seemed to do much good. I doubt you took the adjuster apart when you did your spring. It could be more likely that your shift lever external mechanism needs a good cleaning, greasing and maybe even a little shim to reduce play. While you're at it, check to be sure the clutch lever is not showing excessive play at the hand grip and the clutch fluid is freshly changed.

[mznyc]

Thanks Docc,

Best explanation Ive seen yet,I'll be getting in her next week.

[gstallons]

There is a very old thread on this. I'll have to look for it when the sun goes down. But, from (my failing) memory:

 

The eccentric adjusts the throw evenly between up and down. It is easiest to center with the cover off since you can visually inspect the throw. It can, however, be tweaked on the bike.

 

The adjuster is a three piece affair. The acorn nut is a cover and can be removed to access the adjuster itself. There is a slotted shaft and a lock nut. Note (as in write down or draw)the position of the slot ("zero") and release the lock nut while holding the shaft with a screw driver. It's right fiddly to get to and I found using a 3/8 drive "crow's foot" 19mm open end a good help.

 

Rotate the screw slot 1/8 turn (probably counterclockwise to improve downshift) and lock up, replace on the cap and go for a test ride. A little better? Go another 1/8. A little worse? Go back to zero and 1/8 the other direction. DON'T FORGET YOUR ZERO!

 

That said, we fiddled with these a lot back in the days when the recall was impending and never seemed to do much good. I doubt you took the adjuster apart when you did your spring. It could be more likely that your shift lever external mechanism needs a good cleaning, greasing and maybe even a little shim to reduce play. While you're at it, check to be sure the clutch lever is not showing excessive play at the hand grip and the clutch fluid is freshly changed.

 

Do you write procedures for a living ?

[docc]

Do you write procedures for a living ?

Oh, my, no. I follow procedures for a living!

[mznyc]

**Update**

I tried adjusting the adjuster but didn't find much of a difference ,still hitting false neutrals on downshifts.

It seems like I'll have to take her apart and inspect and lube the linkage and look/see the pawl spring.Clutch and gear juice is overdue for a flush so hoping a combination of those will improve things,

Keepya posted,,,

Thanks Docc

[gstallons]

Oh, my, no. I follow procedures for a living!

 

 

I follow procedures "when they happen to be the same" as what I want to do................

[Qman da hue man]

I follow procedures "when they happen to be the same" as what I want to do................

Docc, I want to thank you for your speedy reply to my situation. Unfortunately I haven't been able to get out to the shop to check out the victim of my mechanics for a week. My hats off to you sir.Upon examination I did find a little slop in the linkage, I also noticed that I'd installed the linkage onto the shifter shaft one tooth off the mark on the shaft. Corrected all and she's back to smooth as silk clutchless shifting. Thanks again. Qman

[Qman da hue man]

Repost... I spoke to soon on my last post. My test drive was too short, and the 1 or 2 miss shifts I encountered I blamed on myself. After several rides I noticed not too much had changed. So I decided to play with the mysterious eccentric screw!!!After clunking around with the adjustment, up to appx. 40 deg. on either side of where it was set. [ Moving the screw about 10 to 15 deg.a wack.] I found a spot where it was getting close to right. After that point the final dialing in drops down to a degree or two of adjustment at a time. You will feel the shifting become "tight" in regards to the up and down throw, and the "beast" will slip into gear smoothly. All my gutz have always had a long throw gear, on this it seems to be 4th. And this is where I had to play in the very fine adjustment range to get it right. I hope this will help anyone with rough shifting with the eccentric screw to get it smooth. Thanks Guzzists

[docc]

Sounds like you are continuing to make it better!

 

Something else I remember impedes the downshift is the shift lever can contact the edge of the "pork chop." You'll see a little nick where the lever hits (and can see it if you look under the lever while pushing into its full downward throw). Check to be sure there's a little clearance there.