stefano Posted April 9, 2011 Share Posted April 9, 2011 First tell us if the tank has a rubber pad on top of the tank... If it does, it has the external pump. I know how this is removed... You will have to shut off the fuel supply valve, disconnect the fuel line, remove the seat, remove the rear tank mounting bolt, pick up on the fuel tank and have someone disconnect the tank low fuel indicator plug. Pick up a little more and disconnect the two small vent hoses. I don't think the 03 has the other smog hoses and dump valve? If so disconnect them also. When you go back together splice the two small hoses together because they are vents only for the fuel cap and spillage. p.s this is a two man operation! i'm about remove my tank also, '02 le Mans with rubber pad on top of tank. i have a knurled round knob on the fuel petcock on left side of tank, this is the fuel shut off? mine will only turn about an eighth of a turn clockwise, then it won't turn anymore, i don't want to break it. how many revolutions should it turn 'til fuel shuts off? or am i doing something wrong? thanks, stef thanks for info. just filled tank last night, think i'll have to use it up (oh darn) before i fool with the shut off, it's really stuck. the breather hose looks kinda suspect from what i can see, think i'll replace it also, & the fuel filter, and...and..... cheers, stef Stef, yes that is the shutoff valve.It (the valve) requires a lot of turns to seat and open. Purchace a small brand of Channel-lock pliers to help you to seat the valve. Mine was a booger to work the first few times. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SMDL Posted April 9, 2011 Share Posted April 9, 2011 Thanks, gents. No rubber pad on the tank, and I am pretty certain that it has an internal pump. I'm not sure it even has a petcock? Sorry, but I am relatively new to this bike! Shaun Well if it has the internal fuel pump you should take off the tank retaining bolt, lift the tank at the back and stick something to keep it up a couple of inches for easier access. You will have 2electric plugs to disconnect ( fiddly) then disconnect the QD,s on the fuel lines (even fiddlier) . The way i do it is keep your left hand on the red or white plastic connection coming out of the tank, then with your right hand push or pull collar on the fuel line til its loose, some petrol will leak out. When they are off lift the tank from the back and look underneath in the middle there should be a overfill hose to disconnect then lift it off. Just be careful with the connections. When you are putting it back on make sure the fuel lines are fully home. Gary Hi, all. I'm hoping for a bit more information regarding the quick-disconnects (not) on the later bikes? I'm trying to, well, quickly disconnect them, but they don't seem to want to come loose. I'm pushing, pulling, etc., and concerned that I am going to break them if not careful. Does anyone know which way they should go? I'm trying follow the instructions that Gary was kind enough to provide, but am not sure if I should pull the collar towards the red/white connector or push it away. I am assuming that I shouldn't try to twist or squeeze the collar? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skeeve Posted April 9, 2011 Share Posted April 9, 2011 I'm hoping for a bit more information regarding the quick-disconnects (not) on the later bikes? I'm trying to, well, quickly disconnect them, but they don't seem to want to come loose. I'm pushing, pulling, etc., and concerned that I am going to break them if not careful. Does anyone know which way they should go? I'm trying follow the instructions that Gary was kind enough to provide, but am not sure if I should pull the collar towards the red/white connector or push it away. I am assuming that I shouldn't try to twist or squeeze the collar? This is probably the single most-commonly asked technical question: it should probably have a FAQ all its own! 1st, the proper tools: despite any protests by some fortunate few, this is not a bare-hands operation! You only need one tool, but it is vital, IMHO. Needle-nose Vise-Grips [or equivalent locking pliers.] Why these? Because you can adjust just how far they close, preventing you from actually grabbing the plastic parts upon which it will be wielded. 2nd, relieve tension on the fuel line by pushing it toward the QD connector; this will require using the other hand to back up the 90-deg elbow, since this is the weakest point of the entire QD design, and the spigot can be broken off by carelessly applied normal effort. 3rd, using your 3rd hand [heh-heh! ], lever the QD collar away from the spigot with the tips of your previously adjusted needle-nose pliers. You absolutely will not be grabbing anything with the pliers to do this; you will purely be utilizing the narrow tips to apply the leverage against the end of the collar. The fuel line will basically pop off & dribble a little gas all over everything, so obviously, this task is only to be performed on a completely cold engine w/ no smoking or open flames allowed anywhere in the vicinity. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SMDL Posted April 9, 2011 Share Posted April 9, 2011 PERFECT! That was exactly what I needed! For the record, ther is no way that I would have been able to get these off by hand. Thanks, Skeeve! Shaun Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HaydnR Posted May 20, 2011 Share Posted May 20, 2011 I think that one of the main reasons why people have problems doing this is that they are trying to do it whist there is still pressure in the hose which will lock the fitting in place. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4SYAS5xsUlo&feature=related http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iU3jKjwBuQA Be very careful the angled spigot (red) will break if forced and they cannot be replaced without the fuel pump at 100's of pounds. This is on my V11 but other Guzzi models the procedure would be the same. It is preferable to have a near empty tank because of the weight. I have removed the bolt holding the rear of the tank and placed a block of wood under the tank to give easier access to the petrol pump fittings. Have an old rag to hand as even once de-pressurized there will still be some fuel left in the hose and pump 1. De-pressurize the fuel system by disconnecting the wire to the pump and then try and start the bike. (if you leave the hose under pressure you will get an unpleasant shower). 2. Hold the the red fitting in one hand and with the other hand first push the coupling together, then with index finger and thumb pull the outer ring back(towards the hose) and then with a gentle wiggling action pull the couplings apart Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IBA 270 Posted May 20, 2011 Share Posted May 20, 2011 I think that one of the main reasons why people have problems doing this is that they are trying to do it whist there is still pressure in the hose which will lock the fitting in place. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4SYAS5xsUlo&feature=related LOL! Look at the gash on your hand! Yea, I look like I'm a wild animal wrangler on the weekends because of the cuts and nicks on my hands... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jamess Posted May 20, 2011 Share Posted May 20, 2011 I spend days swearing at the 'quick release' fittings, reading lots of 'how to' postings, and was getting knowwhere until I read a bit about depressurising the line. With my V11, it won't come off without doing this. Shame I didn't see this post 3 years ago............. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
v11cafe Posted May 20, 2011 Share Posted May 20, 2011 I spend days swearing at the 'quick release' fittings, reading lots of 'how to' postings, and was getting knowwhere until I read a bit about depressurising the line. With my V11, it won't come off without doing this. Shame I didn't see this post 3 years ago............. was about to write the same, many fights with 'quick release' fittings until I read in a Breva manual that procedure Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grossohc Posted May 22, 2011 Share Posted May 22, 2011 I think that one of the main reasons why people have problems doing this is that they are trying to do it whist there is still pressure in the hose which will lock the fitting in place. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4SYAS5xsUlo&feature=related Well done Haydn, at last a video of a common question asked Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skeeve Posted May 22, 2011 Share Posted May 22, 2011 Excellent post, HaydnR! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
swinfurkon Posted September 30, 2011 Share Posted September 30, 2011 I think that one of the main reasons why people have problems doing this is that they are trying to do it whist there is still pressure in the hose which will lock the fitting in place. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4SYAS5xsUlo&feature=related Well done Haydn, at last a video of a common question asked Thank the Lord and thank you Haydn! Great Video. I am guessing that running the bike relieves fuel pressure in the line. I have had my 2002 V11 since new and have attempted this several times, experiencing the frustration expressed by others. Each time I just sent it to the Mechanic for service / repair. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom in Virginia Posted November 15, 2012 Share Posted November 15, 2012 Vise Grip jaws worked great, pre-set opening so nothing was crushed, worked well as leverage tool once the fuel line pressure bled down (after running and disconnecting the fuel pump electrical connector). Got tank off, reglued the heat mat to bottom of tank, celaned a bit of oil and dirt up, decided to wait until cold days of the winter to repalce all the hose lines under the tank and those that go to the catch tank in front of back wheel. Thanks for all the pointers guys, with words and videos it was not hard at all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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